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[archmage164]

i did that too, it was my first time soldering, and it made it much easier.

[notkevin]

The method I used was to tape the pin header in place on the top of the board, flip the board over, apply heat with a soldering iron to the top of the pin sticking out the bottom, wait for the pin to heat up, apply solder to the board and pin. That is how I learned to do it way back when i took eletronics classes, I have never had a bad install and it only took me only 5 mins    

[feflicker]

All you have to do is heat the point and the pin at the same time (by placing the tip "wedged" in between) and feed solder in between the pin and the point. I don't see how the length of the pin makes a difference -- it could be a foot long if you wanted, solder flows toward heat.  

If you ever solder a header pin, and it VISIBLY looks ok, but the pin moves when you push on it, you need to clean the area, use a little flux, make sure you are using the right solder (pc rosin core works great), and that the iron is hot enough (if it doesn't smoke a little while you are soldering it is not hot enough). Your solder job should look like liquid mercury, nice and shiny!

Hey, but what do I know, I have only modded around 200 consoles, 99% of them using the header pin method  

[feflicker]

QUOTE

200 consoles! Now you're just showing off  I'll assume the 1% that weren't header pin installs were on version 1.0's

Nope. I know the actual number, but I won't say. 200 doesn't sound as overboard!

I actually use desoldering braid to remove the solder on the 1.0/1.1's, so that doesn't make a difference.

The other 1% are TSOP's. I even install the matrix and X1 with header-pins!  

[feflicker]

QUOTE

I don't understand why people don't use flux. That is what it is for. If you use it, the solder will instantly suck down into the holes.

Yep.  

Also, 60/40 Rosin-Core is about the best for electronics. If any of you are using solid wire and no flux, then you are gonna have a fun time resoldering all those cold joints over the years  

[muddy]

QUOTE (Mr Nobody @ Jan 28 2004, 01:55 PM)

First, I digress... Did my (first) install last night.  Took me about 2 hours.  Alternate D0 gave me no problems.  Header pins did give me problems.  Everything looked fine, but I was getting (at first) no light, then later just solid red.  MS Dash booted up like no chip was installed. Checking the voltage/ground on the pins is one way to check your problems.  I noticed that pin 2 wasn't grounded...meaning bad soldering. Another thing I did to check was to push the pins from the top side and I was able to push the pins out even though they looked soldered.  I resoldered the pins that moved and everything was good after that. Now, to the header pin tip: The modder I bought the chip from gave me a very useful trick that I've never seen mentioned here or anywhere else before. Adjust each pin so that they barely stick out of the bottom of the board.  It makes soldering so much easier.  With the normal length of the pins, it's a lot harder to make the solder suck into the hole.  When the pins are almost flush, its easy as pie.

This should be pinned... Helped me out a lot!!!! Xenium works perfect now!

[Mr Nobody]

QUOTE (feflicker @ Jan 28 2004, 07:37 PM)

QUOTE I don't understand why people don't use flux. That is what it is for. If you use it, the solder will instantly suck down into the holes. Yep.   Also, 60/40 Rosin-Core is about the best for electronics. If any of you are using solid wire and no flux, then you are gonna have a fun time resoldering all those cold joints over the years

Used flux on the pins.  Unless you mean put it in the hole.  (No alternate meaning intended)  

Its a lot easier to heat the pin and hole when they are almost flush.  Unfortunate inheritance of shaky hands from my dad.

A pro can refute any tip.  But then again, a pro should be able to install a chip in 5 minutes with an iron (for shirts).  

[feflicker]

QUOTE

Its a lot easier to heat the pin and hole when they are almost flush.

I didn't think about it, but this probably depends on the tip you are using. I prefer the "pointy" one, not the one that looks like a flat-head screwdriver  

QUOTE

A pro can refute any tip.

I suppose so... Not personally trying to refute the tip, just trying to see the science behind it. Technically the wire could go on forever, as long as you heat the correct spot to the correct temperature, use flux, the proper solder and the proper tip, you should be fine... (Basically just have the correct setup for soldering electronics -- not radiators!)

[feflicker]

QUOTE

Its dull now from being so old

Use a file or sandpaper and you can clean it and shape it. Especially if it is copper, it works out rather well  

After reading through this thread, I think just about anyone can not solder a pin-header without issue. All the bases have been covered  

[cyko500]

Yeah everything here is good advice....... solder flows toward heat and dry areas (solder dry, not rosin dry). If people would just read things like this and practice before they modded their xbox we wouldn't see any solder problems on the forum.... The xbox is a very easy mod........ My first mod was on my ps2; it makes the xbox solder points look massive. If you've done one you know what I'm talking about. Especially a v1-3 PS2 with the 6 or more pins on the dvd-rom controller chip. I've done a few ps2's for friends too....... ugh...... even when you get the soldering right there can be interferance between the wires and whatnot...... sooooo much harder...... Anyhow people need to learn to read and practice before they start prodding expensive electronics with an 800 degree F iron.