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[rmcelwee]

First of all, I'm no stranger to mod chips. It has been a while but I built 5 or 6 modded XBox1s a few years back. I'm not the best with a soldering iron but I can find my way around with one and I am ok with a multimeter.

I currently have a working XBox1 with a DuoX2 GS white chip. I have had it for a few years and wanted to have something to play around with so I bought a 2nd ver 1.1 box and two DuoX2 GS white chips. I bought two just in case I needed a second one for trouble shooting (and perhaps building a 3rd box).

I installed the pin header and my solder points looked good. I jumped BT to G to have a constant on and soldered D0 to the alternate spot.

The symptoms:
If I boot with the chip installed it boots to the MS dashboard.
If I boot with alligator clips connecting D0 (still wired to the alternate point) to the metal of the case I FRAG.
No lights have ever lit up on the chip.

What I have tried as far as troubleshooting:
1) Freshened up the solder on all points between the header and motherboard.
2) Pulled chip #1 off and put chip #2 on. Used alligator clips to jump from D0 on chip #2 to D0 on chip#1 (still wired to the Alt position on the motherboard - continuity checked of course). This boots to MS dashboard with no LED lit on the chip.
3) Checked for continuity in various places:
- All header pins have continuity to somewhere on the motherboard
- All header pins have continuity to the chip's board.
- D0 and ALT D0 (both on motherboard) have continuity.

I don't think I screwed up horribly when soldering and I wanted to ask for advice before messing with the solder joints again. I am worried about screwing them up and having to buy another XBox.

Anyone have some advice for me?

[Joes2Silly]

If you want the chip to be constantly on just remove the BT wire and solder your D0 to a ground (either the screw holes on the motherboard or the shielding work well). I have no clue how to get the chip to boot with the BT wire and D0 wire properly connected because I never used em'  

[rmcelwee]

QUOTE(Joes2Silly @ Apr 24 2011, 01:06 AM)

If you want the chip to be constantly on just remove the BT wire and solder your D0 to a ground (either the screw holes on the motherboard or the shielding work well). I have no clue how to get the chip to boot with the BT wire and D0 wire properly connected because I never used em'  

I took your advice and pulled the BT to G wire and grounded D0. The box FRAGs just like before. If I ground D0 I FRAG no matter what else I do. I guess this is a good indication that my D0 is connected/soldered correctly.

[rmcelwee]

I reflowed the solder on the pin header. Same thing - FRAGs if I connect D0. It does this on both chips so it HAS to be something with the header but as I said, I tested for continuity and it looked good.

[rmcelwee]

Swapped one of the new unflashed chips into a known good XBOX. The box booted to Cromwell Bios just fine so I know the chip and header that is soldered to the chip is good.

Swapped a known good chip into the XBOX I am working on and it would not work. The red LED on chip would not light and it would just boot to MS dashboard. I am not sure why it did not frag? I was holding the chip's D0 wire and motherboard's D0 wire together with alligator clips with tested continuity it would not FRAG. When I ground D0 on the motherboard is does FRAG. I don't understand what is going on???

[rmcelwee]

QUOTE(rmcelwee @ Apr 24 2011, 02:51 AM)

I reflowed the solder on the pin header. Same thing - FRAGs if I connect D0. It does this on both chips so it HAS to be something with the header but as I said, I tested for continuity and it looked good.

Well, I was correct. I HAD to be something with the header. This time I removed all the old solder and then soldered the pin header to the motherboard again. I do not know why but it worked this time. Very strange.

Thanks for all your help!!!