Topic: Fried Chip? (Read 198 times)

petemcfc · « **on:** June 16, 2009, 06:23:00 AM »

Sorry about the pun,
I have sucessfully installed Duox2s into V1.0 & V1.4,buy direct solder and pinheader,Ive just tried fitting one on a v1.6 and think Ive cocked up,
Firstly I tried using the LPC rebuild but on either bank the LED on the chip would flash a couple of times,flashing on/off button then the xbox fan would be running but the chip dead,
I removed the LPC and this time rebuilt it using the wire method,the symptoms are the same,
With the chip removed the xbox boots to its retail screen so the mother board must be ok,
Im not sure but I could have possibly switched banks with the power on,if so I could understand the problem but Im not certain,also I have left off the BT connection as following the tutorials read it wasnt required,
I have a couple of spare Duox2 knocking about but Im reluctant to go any further until the matter is cleared up.
Any help please?

litspliff · « **Reply #1 on:** June 25, 2009, 08:36:00 PM »

to your credit, the motherboard is most likely okay if it boots the retail dash.

with a 1.6, most people fck up the LPC board install, especially the first time. the point in the weird corner can be especially tricky, so i recommend you start with that.

the problem you are referring to is known as the 3-FRAG (reset, reset, flash red and green). it is a failure of the bios booting routine. two things commonly cause it. bad motherboard (not your issue), and failed installation.

the fried chip is a possibility, but quite unlikely. the failure rate of these chips is fairly low, and flipping the switch during operation is unlikely to hurt anything unless you are in the middle of a flashing process.

go ahead and try one of the other chips anyway. i doubt it will do any damage.

remember...
blue chip only has one 1.6 compatable bank.
the white chip sometimes only has one 1.6 compatable bank (depends on the motherboard revision).

if you need a fresh look, try the 1.6 install tutorial on my site (link in signature).

good luck!

petemcfc · « **Reply #2 on:** June 27, 2009, 02:20:00 AM »

Thanks for your reply,
I followed your guide for the LPC board install,and Chancers/HackDaBox'es guides for the wire install.
I have also posted the question on the xboxHacker forum and Gigabite has replied also suspecting a soldering issue,what I failed to mention on this or the post to XboxHacker was that on carrying out the wire installation a copper conductive ring lifted,as I could not refit it I flowed in more solder,
A problem is that Im not totally certain which one it was,and I asked if there was a way to perform a continuity check,pins 6-10 are the suspected area,as I have voltage through the header on pin 6 and looking at the extra solder applied pin 8 (LAD2)is the likely candidate.
Gigabite has asked for some Hi-Res photos,would it be helpful if I uploaded them here also?
Never having done so what is the method of uploading them here?,also since the original post I have connected the BT wire to pin 9.

litspliff · « **Reply #3 on:** June 27, 2009, 02:46:00 AM »

yes, most definately. pictures are as good as being there as i'm gonna get. more people will drop in with advice if you provide more info as well.

i'm glad you closed the BT, i forgot to mention it. hopefully you saw it in my tutorial

petemcfc · « **Reply #4 on:** June 27, 2009, 04:25:00 AM »

Yes I now understand the lack of info can lead to: no info,
Its going to be a few days before I can borrow a good quality camera mines crap,
A few questions in the meantime
Up loading images to this site is something which Ive never done how do I go about it?
Secondly regarding the photos,the images will be "as is" so although they can be checked that the wiring is correct and for quality of workmanship the solder itself would hide what seems to be a lifted trace,so would it be a good idea to desolder the pinheader?
If it is Pin 8 what is its function?
Finally what is the reason for closing the BT? I have left it open on the other two xboxes that Ive done.
Thanks for your help.

petemcfc · « **Reply #5 on:** July 08, 2009, 03:22:00 AM »

Dear All,
this is the highest resolution picture of the problem we can get at the moment,
does this help at all. The chip has been switched to another motherboard and works fine so it looks as if the issue is not the chip,
Thanks IPB Image

petemcfc · « **Reply #6 on:** July 08, 2009, 03:49:00 AM »

Bit higher resolution

litspliff · « **Reply #7 on:** July 08, 2009, 05:39:00 AM »

can't see much in the picture...too small.

what i can see is that you have too much exposed wire on the blue one. this could be a source of a short, but like i said, the picture is way too small. get that camera right up to it, and don't use a cell phone.

petemcfc · « **Reply #8 on:** July 08, 2009, 12:26:00 PM »

I appreciate that comment, the photo was taken using a decent camera but using flickar to upload it I could not increase the size,Gigabite has pointed out that a wire is missing,if I was to use the LPC rebuild board it would be the first solder connection that you suggest that is done first,
I have rectified that but even after creating the missing bridge,it does look like Ive an issue with a trace,I could not flash the bios using Euroasia,the bios/flash screen loads but will not recognise the cd rom,I swapped the chip/HDD for a known good chip/HDD taken from V1.6 loaded with Slayer 2.7,and recieved an error code 13.

petemcfc · « **Reply #9 on:** July 11, 2009, 08:23:00 AM »

Hi,Thanks for your help,for some reason the eurasia disc was not bieng read by the cd-rom,even after swapping with a spare cd-rom on either banks,the solution was to network flash,using bank 1,
Loaded Slayer,problem sorted thanks.

litspliff · « **Reply #10 on:** July 11, 2009, 03:18:00 PM »

glad you got it taken care of.

just post back if you have any problems.

Author Topic: Fried Chip? (Read 198 times)