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[rogue26]

Installed a Doux2 Blue into a 1.6. I did a wire rebuild and everything went ok rebuild the hard drive got Evox up and running.  After I got all the screws back in the xbox the chip stopped working.  I lost the flashing red led and can only boot to the orginal ms dash.  Took it apart and checked the soldering and it looked good but I resoldered everything anyways.  Still no go.  I get voltage on the D0 point on the chip to ground.  Wondering if anyone has any ideas.

Thanks


Rogue

[TonyF11]

If u lost the red flashing led then u got no power to the chip. I know im stating the obvious but if it worked once then its defo down to a iffy solder joint to the BT or maybe it has been dislodged. Just check  the soldering to the BT point or use an alternative BT point.

[rogue26]

I have continued testing and checked voltage at the LPC and from Pin 2 -Pin 9 I get my 3.3v but on Pin 6 I am only getting 4.6v for some reason.

I use the alt BT point but I will recheck it.  I also notice that when I turn the power off the red led has a very dim red glow.  I am guessing that I have a bad solder point somewhere but just can't locate it.  I will check the BT and see if that helps.  Thanks


This post has been edited by rogue26: Oct 15 2006, 09:02 PM

[FallsInc]

sounds like you lost the gnd connection. if its booting to the ms dash...

[rogue26]

Just made a new BT connection to the backside of the eject board and still have the same problem.

As far as the ground connection I was thinking the same thing but when I tested the voltage I did it from the topside pins of the chip and had a ground ref there on pin 2.  Any other way you think I could test that?

Thanks again

[Chancer]

The LFrame connection is not correct.
Ground out the LFrame (D0) connection from the mobo to ground and report what happens

[rogue26]

QUOTE(Chancer @ Oct 15 2006, 10:14 PM)

The LFrame connection is not correct.
Ground out the LFrame (D0) connection from the mobo to ground and report what happens

Got a FRAG with no video/audio

[_GhOsT_]

then your d0 is working

your soldering and/or rebuild needs to be fixed

[Chancer]

Your BT is not working either

[Nichademus]

Chancer... I have a similar problem.  Dim led on duox2 gs chip in a v1.6 board.  I'm going to try the d0 to ground.  I have one question... how in the heck do you retouch-up the lpc rebuild board?  do I remove all solder and resolder?  furthermore, what is a good way to clean up flux?  I don't have any more fluid in my flux remover pen (all dried up) and in the past when I ran into similar issues it was a matter of cleaning up the flux because it was conductive and causing frags.  Please reply asap and will post my d0 ground results (oh, and I even tried tying the BT on the chip to the pin on the chip to enable always on.  With that I get FRAG, no video/audio and the LED on the chip flashes brightly on/off.

UPDATE: d0 ground to mobo resulted in hit power= started up then shut down completely... no audio/video.  No FRAG either.

This post has been edited by Nichademus: Oct 20 2006, 03:23 AM

[Chancer]

You need to reflow the soldering. It only means re-heating the soldered connections and adding just a whsiker more solder. If the solder does not melt into a pool as soon as you apply the iron to the connection then you may need to use a more powerful iron

[Mastadisasta]

OK I have a little tip that might work.

I moded my 1.6 xbox for the first time 3 days ago with the DuosX2 blue with no problems. This is what I did.

The connector that attached to the board was fastened by scotch tape to hold it in place while  I had the board upside down. Then I attached the LPC circuit board to the bottom without adding any solder first, so that it would be completely flush with the mobo. Then I hit the pins up with solder. (Tip) when applying the solder to the pins move the pins back and forth with the solder Iron and you will see the solder suck down into the holes, do this until it doesn't suck anymore down.  Then when applying the solder to the  7 points on the outer part of the LPC board, use a fine tip on your solder iron to hit those up. And a 2nd tip, need a good solder Iron, not one form radio shack.  The temp of your Iron should be around 700 degrees Fahrenheit and I used 60/40 solder.
If too hot you will burn the flux that is in the solder and when it solidifies you will get a bad connection.
So the biggest key is a good Iron its a must. Well hope it helps good luck

[Nichademus]

gotcha... I'll try these methods tonight and post results, as I do have a good iron around here somewhere, but I was only using a 15 watt (Radio Shack) iron through solder station.  However, I used flux paste (a very tiny bit) to help solder flow, and I can't seem to remove all the residual greasy film it has left behind.  Is there a household solvent that could help clean this up without me having to order another flux remover pen?  Thanks.

[Mastadisasta]

Get a micro tip for your Iron from radio shack. And if you don't have Flux Off, PCB cleaner, then you can use Alcohol with either a fine brush, Que tip or tooth brush. And each time you use the Iron for each connection clean the tip. Your station should have came with a sponge. Get the sponge wet and clean your tip after each use.

[Nichademus]

You guys rule!  Thank you very very much.   I followed 'both' your suggestions (Chancer & Masta).  I reflowed the solder in the LPC and used the 60/40 to top it off and then used the toothbrush Isopropyl cleaning of flux.  I even used my 40 watt to flow that solder using my solder station set at about 75% (approx 30watt) to cause the flow.  Reassembled and back to the cromwell ready for flash.  I owe ya guys... just don't know what I could owe ya.  As a matter of fact, I used to do the 1.6 & b's using the wire install... new to this rebuild stuff and hadn't had these same issues.

Peace to you both, now its off to complete.