Topic: Duox 2 (Read 97 times)

MegaHurt · « **on:** June 17, 2005, 02:09:00 AM »

I know that this thread has been seen several times, I came across one, but his solution didn't fix mine. My friends chip just stopped. It doesn't work anymore after working for months.

If I try to boot with the chip enabled, the box turns on/off 3 times then FRAGs. It really sucks. I can boot to the MS Bios just fine. Both banks yield the same result. The chip is currently set to always on by soldering BT to G.

If I take the chip and put it into my box, it boots right away. My chip will not boot in my friends box. I can't find the problem.

I have resoldered the points, and checked all the connections. This wasn't my first install, so I know that the connections are good.

I need to get this fixed ASAP. I don't plan to sleep, so I have lots of time to work. I will recheck all of my connections again and post back the results. Any help or suggestions are greatly appreciated.

Megahurt

Chancer · « **Reply #1 on:** June 17, 2005, 03:51:00 AM »

If you look logically at this. the chip and its bios work fine in your box so the chip and bios is fine. The chip FRAGs when enabled in your friends Xbox. This means the D0 connection is doing its job it also means the BT point is working.
Your chip does not work in this box either so there are only 2 possibilities
1 The bios on the chip is not correct for your friends version of box but is for yours.
2 Despite your confidence something is wrong with the LPC work (Rebuild if there is one) this could be a hairline fracture where one of the print tracks joins the LPC ring on any point. anything such as that.
Can you post pictures of the work in that area? It may help

MegaHurt · « **Reply #2 on:** June 17, 2005, 04:13:00 AM »

I'll try to find my camera later today.

The chip was workingin his box earlier, both boxes are 1.4, and I redid the LPC points earlier just in case. I'm out of ideas.

I'll try to get some picks ASAP.

Thanks Chancer,

Megahurt

HackDaBox · « **Reply #3 on:** June 17, 2005, 07:23:00 AM »

Do you have a multimeter ? if you do then go to chancers website ( it's in his sig ) and have a look at his LPC diagnostics pic. You need to check your LPC does not have any problems with the traces at this point as the problem must be there !

HackDaBox !

MegaHurt · « **Reply #4 on:** June 17, 2005, 11:49:00 AM »

Thanks guys,

My multimeter is MIA at the moment, but I'll find it and get the measurements tonight.

I'm going to be away from the internet for 3 days so I won't have any new information for awhile. But this does give me something to work on.

Megahurt

MegaHurt · « **Reply #5 on:** June 19, 2005, 02:18:00 PM »

Ok, I found my multimeter and did the continuity tests over the weekend.

All of the readings were close to what they should have been. No radical variations at all.
The only pins that I could not get to read were 1 and 3, I say it is because my cheapo radioshack multimeter only goes to 2 mega ohms. So I don't know what they are really reading.

I inspected the board and it seems to be in perfect shape. However, there is some flux from my new solder left on the board still, it wouldn't wipe off. What do you recommend using to clean it off?

I don't want to give you guys less than perfect pictures to try and help me.

Thanks again,

Megahurt

MegaHurt · « **Reply #6 on:** June 20, 2005, 12:04:00 AM »

Thanks otherguy,

It was from the rosin core solder, still trying to find some batteries with enough juice to run my camera.

Megahurt

MegaHurt · « **Reply #7 on:** June 22, 2005, 11:30:00 PM »

Ok, I finally found some batteries for my camera.

I took a mess of picture, 20+, and these were the best four. They appear to give a pretty good look of the entire area once you view them all.

My avvailable lighting sucked, and my Fujitsu Finepix A205 is only 2MP so this is the best I could do.

The images are rather large, so I am just posting the links. Hopefully you can still get to them.

http://i12.photobuck...rt/XboxM016.jpg

http://i12.photobuck...rt/XboxM014.jpg

http://i12.photobuck...rt/XboxM009.jpg

http://i12.photobuck...rt/XboxM003.jpg

Thanks for the help,

Megahurt

Chancer · « **Reply #8 on:** June 23, 2005, 06:06:00 AM »

The pics are fairly blurry so I do apologise if I come to the wrong conclusions. The soldering does not look to have flowed correctly it looks sort of stuck on . have you a fairly powerful iron that you could redo the points with, it may help form a good solid connection.

MegaHurt · « **Reply #9 on:** June 23, 2005, 10:26:00 AM »

I also noticed that a some of the connections didn't look that great when I was taking the pics. Most of them are good connections though.

I was planning to look over the connections today and fix the ones that appeared to have a problem.

Thanks chancer.

Megahurt

hippo · « **Reply #10 on:** June 23, 2005, 01:19:00 PM »

I had a Doux modded 1.0 I picked up last night from another installer. The 1.0 had solder sucked out and was fragging when chip was enabled. That much the installer friend told me to expect.

I looked at the LPC under 8x magnification and looked 'okay' but not great. I test booted with mod enabled to frag. I put a scope probe on top of the header pin on pin 1 and found the clock okay in about 5 seconds. The clock is only active the 3 times the bios tries to load during frag, btw.

I put the probe on LAD0 and booted and there was no comms. I bagged the scope at that point and put and meter btween LPC pin 15 and each lad line hoping to find 10k ohms resistance and all checked out except lad 3 was reading mega ohms. Bingo within 1 minute I knew lad 3 was defective in some way. Anyway when my pal sucked the solder out he pulled the trace connecting the LPC annular ring and this is my fix, took maybe 8 mins because the installer hands off to me a main board in a case with 1 scew holding it togeether and I can find the solution and replace one screw and hand it back very quickly as he has the drives etc.

I couldn't see the problem under 8x I looked hard right at it. The $8 radio shack meter found it. I always check the clock first though cuz that's the trace I find lifted most often.

user posted image

hippo · « **Reply #11 on:** June 23, 2005, 02:07:00 PM »

The flux residue is of no concern we all use Kester no clean flux it leaves a hard finish that I call 'put under' meaning oxygen can not interact with the metal of the joint causing oxidation. Just like painting over Iron or other metals so the oxygen can not cause rust which is how iron oxidizes.

MegaHurt · « **Reply #12 on:** June 23, 2005, 02:14:00 PM »

Okay hippo,

Since you have had an almost identical problem and you have a fix, could you show me a pic with the LAD points on a 1.4 board.

My problem box is a 1.4, and some changes were made between the 1.0 and the 1.4 boxes.

This could fix my problem and everything could be right in the world again, well almost anyway.

Megahurt

HackDaBox · « **Reply #13 on:** June 24, 2005, 04:13:00 AM »

Sorry haven't really been active on this thread but i must ask

Do you clean your iron tip before soldering each joint ?

It just looks very dull and not shiny at all ! this could be your problem. I would get a clean dry ( or new ) tip and heat up each joint and add a touch more solder.

HackDaBox !

hippo · « **Reply #14 on:** June 24, 2005, 05:09:00 AM »

In my case reflowing the pins did nothing. The LPC below is good for 1.0 - 1.5.

So to capsulize power off and unplug and take readings from each LAD to pin 15. You want 10k ohms or close (within 5%). Take the reading from 15 to the top of your header, through your connections. Since you have no scope trace back pin 1 to the next via like the second pic 'G'.
If none of this works you should 29 home brew it since the tsop and isa bus sound alright, right?

user posted image

Author Topic: Duox 2 (Read 97 times)