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[hogfan]

Pinheader is soldered into the LPC and the chip is plugged in.  BT wire is is connected to the specified point on the Eject button assembly, and solder is not touching the metal shielding.  The D0 wire is connected to the top D0 point.  The Xbox boots up fine with the modchip not connected at all.  When the chip is connected and I power on with the power button it boots to MS bios.  However, if I boot with the "Eject" button, I get constant flashing green lights and no video.  I'm not sure how to troubleshoot this problem.  The Xbox is a version 1.2 and I'm certain I have the correct D0 point.  What could be causing it not to boot from the chip, and why the green flashing when I try to boot with the eject button (bypass the modchip).  Any suggestions are appreciated.  I've dealt with worse before, especially Spiderchip.  DuoX2 was easy to install, but I can get it to boot.


Edit:  Also, sometimes when I boot with the power button I also get no video or sound.  Sometimes it works, sometimes it doesn't!  

[HackDaBox]

I remember your name but i can't remember from what ... Spiderchip stuff i think ... anyway you really need to check out my site and follow the troubleshooting info.

http://members.lycos...2_Diagnose.html

Take your D0 wire off and solder it to the alternate D0 on the bottomside of the mobo.

HackDaBox !

[hippo]

Blank screen can mean you are on the wrong bios bank. Also it can mean you don't have the stock AV cables on a cromwell type flash bios like you can't use HD cables for flashing.

Also green flashing LED is like what happens when you eject an unmodded xbox the LED blinks green to warn nearby ants that the tray is opening and to get the hell out of the way. Also try a long press to the power on button to make sure it registers the long press and not a quick flick because you can access all modes from the power button. Also if you customized the LED ring you don't get a true error code, if you were to remove the red side of the LED and it would just flash green not green and red.

[HackDaBox]

Good point hippo, Make sure you are using the standard xbox video cable with yellow , red and white. Not the S-Video connection !

Do you have the BLUE or WHITE DuoX2 ?

HackDaBox !

[hogfan]

It's the blue version of the DuoX2.  The other thing is that when I boot with the eject button, the DVD tray doesn't eject, just the green flashing.  I'll try that long press on the power button.  And yes, I originally tried to solder the d0 wire to the point on the bottom side of the board, but it wouldn't stay stuck, and the small amount of solder on the pad burned off.  Had to fix with a silver trace-writer pen.  The top d0 point is clean and I've never had a problem with the d0 point before.

[HackDaBox]

OMG - ok leave that D0 alone

But solder the other end of d0 to the metal ring around the screw nearest the LPC area. So mobo D0 to ground. And no connection to D0 on the chip. Then solder a small wire from BT on the chip to G on the chip like in this diagram...

http://members.lycos...dabox/bt2g.html

Now try and boot if it frags your LPC points ( pinheader ) is not soldered correctly or the BIOS is corrupt or you have a bad chip.

PS these chips are almost never faulty and almost never shipped with a bad bios

If it now boots fine then your original problem was with the soldering of D0 on the chip or with the BT wire.

If your happy it now works then you can remove the link from BT to Ground and then put a wire from BT to the point behind the reset switch. Then remove the D0 to ground and put it back on to the D0 pad on the chip.

HackDaBox !

[novakpower]

Also check the cloned Duo threads, I had a clone duo x2 that was doing a similar thing.  Blank screens, mainly weird beep type frags.   The quality of the clone was subpar.

[hogfan]

Thanks for the info.  One question though.  Say I get it working with the d0 grounded to the metal ring and BT soldered to G.  With this setup, there is no way (other than extending the bios bank selector switch) to bypass the chip and boot to the original bios, correct?  In order for the BT wire to be soldered to the eject assembly point, the d0 must be connected to the chip also, correct?  Thanks for all the info.  I chose DuoX2 this time because they are really cheap, and seem to be pretty reputable chips around here.  Fitting the chip was so much easier than the spiderchip!

[hogfan]

This one is not a clone.  I bought it from one of the Mods here (Appleguru), so I know it's a real DuoX2.

[hogfan]

Well, it must be the LPC because I grounded the d0 to the ring around the screw and soldered to point G on the chip to make the chip always on.  Now I get FRAG.  The Pinheader is soldered in, but the lpc holes are not completely filled with solder.  I can't get the the damn stuff to suck in. It just wants to stay stuck to the iron.  I tried some of my soldering paste that has flux in it, but it just makes a mess.  Sound like the LPC to you guys since it FRAGs now?  Removed the chip and un-grounded d0 MS bios boots fine.

[Chancer]

QUOTE

It just wants to stay stuck to the iron.

It sounds like your soldering iron is not powerful enough. This can be a common occurence with a lower power iron. the solder does not melt correctly stopping it from flowing easily.
Try a more powerful iron , practice with it first till you are confident with it.

[hippo]

Possibly you are experiencing what is known as 'stubborn' D0 in that the CPLD cant actually sink hard enough to pull it to ground. This was the purpose of the Aladdin X pad is some machines (about 3%) are exceptionaly hard to sink to ground.

Other than that Blank screen can mean LPC comm errors and alot of other things that don't help nail down a poor install or a poor chip.

90% of all electronic defects trace back to poor soldering, either on the chip or on your install.

[hogfan]

This was my first Pin header install, and I didn't expect this many problems.  Just plug it in and go.  It is hard to solder the male pin header in and completely fill the holes.  As hippo said maybe "stuborn" d0, I'm thinking it's the LPC because when I ground the d0 I get Frag.  If I unplug the chip from the pin header and unground the d0, it boots to Ms bios fine. If I can't get this resolved, I'll just use UXE and Flash TSOP with X24981.06.  The whole point of using the DuoX2 was to be able to disable the mod.

[HackDaBox]

I don't reckon it's a D0 issue. What soldering iron are you using 15W or 25W ? 25W works ok for me on pinheaders. Like chancer said just practise. Some pics would help alot. Also make sure the female pinheader is also soldered ok.

Don't worry about not being able to disable the chip for xbox live as the setup i have described is only a temp thing just to test the chip and soldering , later once all is working ok we will move the BT back to the proper spot and loose the link wire so the chip has full enable and disable status. But at the moment you are at step 3 so don't worry about step 47 ! OK.

HackDaBox!

[hogfan]

I worked even more on the Pinheader in the LPC and I can't move it around at all and the connections look to be good.  As I said, the d0 is grounding fine.  I thought about desoldering the male Pinheader from the LPC, but it's much harder to remove than it is to solder in.  I may have to get some desoldering braid.  I just don't get it.  I bought the  chip from appleguru and  paid an extra $2 to have him solder the female pinheader to the chip.  It looks nice and clean.  Damn the LPC!  This is a 1.2 board, and I've never had LPC problems before on early version boards (but then again this is my first pinheader install. Ironically, this is supposed to be the easiest installation.  Any ideas or suggestions on desoldering the pinheader from the LPC?  I bridged my points and was going to TSOP it and the I remembered about the damn HDD having to be locked.  That was AFTER I opened MY xbox and formatted the new HDD and put UXE on it.