Topic: Problem Flashing Duox2 (Read 305 times)

Chancer · « **Reply #15 on:** May 29, 2005, 03:59:00 PM »

This will need to be repaired by bridging the traces with kynar wire before you can go on now. The solder should flow easily unless your iron is too low powered (15watts). The top D0 trace has to be bridged to the bottom with wire and the other point you damaged repaired as well

hippo · « **Reply #16 on:** May 29, 2005, 05:38:00 PM »

Get kynar wire cat. number 278-501, it's 30 gauge silver plated kynar wire wrap. Also consider sending to someone comfortable linking traces.

cubistproject · « **Reply #17 on:** May 29, 2005, 09:14:00 PM »

I have the same 'flash not writable' problems with the white clones. They flash fine via EvoX. Not too sure about eurasia - I'm using a 1.6b and cromwell won't boot.

HackDaBox · « **Reply #18 on:** May 30, 2005, 06:55:00 AM »

HackDaBox needs your help !

Please flash a clone duox2 chip using EVOX and write down the flash ID's for me and post the info here ...

My original Blue Duo X2 says

Manufacturers ID 04 Device ID d5
Flash Type FUJITSU - MBM29F080A

I will then update Eurasia to flash these babies without hassles !

HackDaBox !

HackDaBox · « **Reply #19 on:** May 30, 2005, 08:02:00 AM »

Other wise do the same for the top D0 and solder a piece of wire from the top d0 to the bottom d0.

Remember you can allways take it to a pro and get them to fix this little problem.

HackDaBox !

PS i dont think you did anything wrong while trying to flash your chip using eurasia , it may be case that the clones are using a different flashrom and just writing AMD on it as eurasia and flashbios both support AMD flashroms without having to add any lines , they are internally supported.

HackDaBox · « **Reply #20 on:** May 30, 2005, 04:05:00 PM »

OK so you have repaired the trace damage ? looks like to have fixed 2 broken traces ? i can't see the pics very good. Do you have D0 going to the chip ?

Does the chip boot to cromwell bios with power button ?

Does the chip boot to MS DASH with eject button ?

If yes then dont do anymore soldering , let me try and work out what the flashing issue is with these beasts !

kingNOTHING42 · « **Reply #21 on:** May 30, 2005, 05:17:00 PM »

I took the mobo outside for better light and took some MUCH better pictures, so you can check those out if you wanted a better look at it.

HackDaBox · « **Reply #22 on:** May 30, 2005, 05:40:00 PM »

Congrats on a good job ... a l ot of people would not have been able to fix trace damage themselves

Don't even look at your install anymore and i will try to sort out the flashing issue.

One last question ... Why didn't you use the pinheader set ? It makes it easier !

HackDaBox !

HackDaBox · « **Reply #23 on:** May 30, 2005, 06:29:00 PM »

Sorry to hear about thumb !

The male pin header gets soldered to the mobo ( easy ) and the female one gets soldered to the chip ( easy ) and then the connections are very good and its easy to remove the chip if you should need to. It's also brilliant for hotswapping ! Next time use the pinheader sets !

Can you take it outside ione last time and tell me all the printed info on the chip ?

It will have AMD written in large white letters but it should have some other little letters written in black ( hard to read ) and i need to know what they are !

HackDaBox !

cubistproject · « **Reply #24 on:** May 30, 2005, 07:06:00 PM »

That's a real DuoX2 - I can see the AMD logo from the pic.

If your install is right, you will have no problems flashing.

PS: Hack da Box, the clones have the ST M29F080A flashroms. Didn't look at the ID via evox - just read off of the chip :-P I can find the other info if you like, but it's prolly already on your disc.

It's SUPPOSED to be supported by flashbios too (Says Team Xecuter), but... it doesn't work!!!

---------------------------------

Ooh - look at the wires soldered to the chip. You've got some problems there. Use some flux to make baby bottom smooth solder points.

You need alot more solder on the pinheader install. Those don't look like thier making contact at all. I don't know what to say.

I wish I could just pull the mobo out of the screen and take it into the shop.

You may want to trim the exposed wire down - you barely need any exposed wire.

Good luck! I really hope you get this booting. I don't know where you are, but if you're around Toronto, you should come down and we'll get you fixed up (I'll help you free of charge)

HackDaBox · « **Reply #25 on:** May 30, 2005, 07:14:00 PM »

Cubist,

When you tried to flash with flashbios / cromwell & eurasia what error did you get BIOS FOUND but not supported ?

Yeah dig up the info for me ... i just wanna make 100% sure i have all the codes for flashing.

You said it flashed ok in evox. Can you post the flash section of the evox.ini you are using to flash those clones with the ST M29F080A flashroms ?

kingNOTHING42,

If we can't find anything wrong with the flashing your next step is to remove the wires from the chip and fit those headerpins as they are a better connection and will rule out any lpc connection problems !

HackDaBox !

cubistproject · « **Reply #26 on:** May 30, 2005, 07:24:00 PM »

Hey HackDaBox - I just remembered - It DID flash fine in eurasia - I did the X2 5xxx tests with eurasia.

It said 'flash not recognized' or some shit when I tried in flashbios.

I'll grab the flashrom info shortly and PM it to you.

HackDaBox · « **Reply #27 on:** May 30, 2005, 09:02:00 PM »

Flux healps the solder and its in the solder anyway so you shouldn't need to add any. I really would love for you to remove the wires from the chip using solder braid / solder wick ( tandy's ) and then solder the pinheaders in. You place the solder wick on the solder you want to remove and place the clean iron on it for a couple of seconds and the solder should run up the wick and off the job. Cut the end off once it's been used and repeat the process to clean up all the solder. Clean your iron after each joint. Your install should still work if the wires are attached properly and not touching as you have described but from the pics its hard to see as the underneath is not soldered well on the lpc area. You could first try adding some more solder to the underside lpc holes so they are soldered well with little round balls of solder.

If you wanna use the pin header follow my duox2 install guide.

http://members.lycos...x2_Install.html

cubistproject · « **Reply #28 on:** May 30, 2005, 11:25:00 PM »

I'm a flux junkie. I find it REALLY helps the magic happen.

If you paint a little flux on the joints you want to solder, you can close your eyes, jab around then iron, and then open your eyes. When you open your eyes, you'll be suprised to see a professional soldering job.

Look a little to the left. The burn marks and heavy corrosion are what you just did ;-)

I'm just joking. I find it does really help me now, tho, and it definately did when I was learning how to solder. It helps the solder flow away from the source of heat and onto the target joints. It's a highly corrosive acid which helps the solder 'stick' and flow as it would at very high temperatures.

Solder contains rosin in it for use as flux (rosin is an acidic solid made from pine. Good for playing the violin, too). Many people say that this is all you need, but I believe you need higher temps wothout additional flux, too.

Most people recommend against using it, but as I said, I'm a flux junkie. Your bubble-but joints would look like babies bottoms if you used a little. Just make sure you clean up with rubbing alchohol and a q-tip after.

You should be very proud of yourself for all of the work and dedication that you've poured into your xbox. I really hope that you get it working.

Good on ya.

-Jay

Dra60nSlayer · « **Reply #29 on:** May 31, 2005, 03:42:00 AM »

I've had problems flashing a Duo X2 when having too long LPC wires... (i had an "external LPC bus" on my xbox) using a pinheader solved that problem...

i only had problem flashing... once flashed everyting worked normal...

(Try shorten your LPC wires)

Author Topic: Problem Flashing Duox2 (Read 305 times)