Topic: Chameleon: Alternate P And E Points (Read 158 times)

mirx999 · « **Reply #15 on:** June 05, 2003, 01:13:00 PM »

just tested this and it works perfectly

rgtaa · « **Reply #16 on:** June 05, 2003, 02:14:00 PM »

NOW ... we have to get DZV to make a NEW Chameleon tuturial as good as his E and P points! ... with pics ,ect!

...

...so people have a Crystal CLEAR guide and we can see a TON of Success Stories!

Thanks again DZV!

P.S. Easybuy should hire him as consultant!

dzv · « **Reply #17 on:** June 05, 2003, 09:34:00 PM »

Well thanks for the kinds words rgtaa.

Unfortunately, I don't even own a Chameleon yet, so it kinda makes it hard for me to make a tutorial with nice pics

SilverDragon · « **Reply #18 on:** June 08, 2003, 05:40:00 AM »

just to add my tuppence, I did it the jamming wires into connector way, but I used a single core wire that was just slightly too thick to slot in, so what I did was use a pair of pliers to fltten the end into a wedge, and slid that in, the rest of the wire wedged in nice and dsnugly so theres very little chance of it ever slipping out by accident!, nosolder, no mess, and seems to be working fine

dzv · « **Reply #19 on:** June 09, 2003, 06:40:00 PM »

The wire I used was about 26 or 28 AWG

dink · « **Reply #20 on:** June 09, 2003, 08:11:00 PM »

There is not plastic sheathing either, its coated with shelack. Just tin it as normal and it will burn off the shelack from the solder iron. This wire fits very nicely into D0, comes out the bottom and goes to the other D0 point without any problem!
Don't worry about the fear of shorting out to a trace, the shelack coating is meant insulate for High Voltage. Plus you will never run out wire! I am still using first spool for that last 10 years!

Terrorbyte · « **Reply #21 on:** July 02, 2003, 10:10:00 PM »

dsv:

Excellent post, after seeing this thread I immediately soldered the P&E points and everything works like a champ. Thanks for posting the diagrams, etc. - very clear and concise. This SHOULD replace the Chameleon quick solder/pin header install manual, as Xodus must want to drive people crazy with their user manual - it sucks, poorly written too. I can't believe the Xodus developers didn't bother looking around for easier points to solder, would've saved a LOT of XBOXes and pain & suffering!

gadgetaddict · « **Reply #22 on:** September 26, 2003, 09:23:00 AM »

complete newbie here - but i'd imagine you could strip the yellow wires about 1 inch up and then solder the P & E wires to it, wrap with a little tape, and you have a permanent install. Choice # 2 is to jam the wires in, and then wrap with electrical tape a bit higher to again make a better install.
Question: Will soldering to P&E make those functions work with the chameleon if you DON'T solder the D0 and A15 points on the chip?

Zerach · « **Reply #23 on:** September 26, 2003, 12:22:00 PM »

QUOTE (dink @ Jun 10 2003, 05:11 AM)

dzv

If you are looking for wire that is even smaller then 30 AWG, you might what to consider using the wire that is found on the primary winding off of a power brick. (e.g. power brick from an old 2400 baud modem.) The hardest part is getting the iron core plates out of the middle.

Theres about 200 meters of wire on the spool. I have used this wire before for very small mods. It can be hidden very well too.

There is not plastic sheathing either, its coated with shelack. Just tin it as normal and it will burn off the shelack from the solder iron. This wire fits very nicely into D0, comes out the bottom and goes to the other D0 point without any problem!
Don't worry about the fear of shorting out to a trace, the shelack coating is meant insulate for High Voltage. Plus you will never run out wire! I am still using first spool for that last 10 years!

Oddly enough the wire you are refering to is called "wire wrap" or "wrapping wire" which you can buy at all good quality electronics stores, if you don't have a old modem or radio

The stuff is great for soldering those really small d0 point and it's solid core and will stand up to a really hot solder gun if you can't afford a good adjustible one (like your's truely).

Here's a link which is related to PS2 but it'll work with any electrical jobby

http://www.goldensho...rd/wirewrap.htm

Just a comment about the jaming of wires to the connector: you could fashion an easy clip system and splice the cable, or connect a cable to the connector with a little solder and split the cable. Add a mini-jack or RJ11 connection and have both P and E cables coming out of the ribbon wire (only be using 2 out of 4 cables) lots of neat ways of doing a connection, just have to be a little creative with it.

Cheers,

Sheriff · « **Reply #24 on:** November 14, 2003, 07:49:00 PM »

Sheriff

JonDante · « **Reply #25 on:** November 15, 2003, 03:53:00 PM »

Ok this is great work. It is definately going to be added to my tutorial. I am awaiting a few more items...and about to get another box just so I can do the tutorial.

Hope you guys like it...and thanks for the suggestion...it will be a great alternative.

JD

Sheriff · « **Reply #26 on:** November 15, 2003, 04:10:00 PM »

The only way you are going to get away with wires not being soldered to your cameleon would be something like in this post.
Scroll down to the pics in this POST

Sheriff

rexlu · « **Reply #27 on:** December 02, 2003, 01:52:00 PM »

Is this the exactly same one as Chameleon P & E solderless?

Link Here

Author Topic: Chameleon: Alternate P And E Points (Read 158 times)