Topic: Chameleon (Read 1282 times)

explicitlyrics100 · « **Reply #45 on:** May 31, 2003, 03:30:00 PM »

yeh, what they could do is create an adapter that sits between the existing one and the motherboard that will connect straight through whilst also allowing input wires from chameleon. but to be honest i think they will leave them out. as for a15 they will certainly leave that out because it causes problems and is far more likely to be in an inconvenient place. accomodating a d0 on a 1.2 is also something they weill have to consider - i sit (and now sleep) with great anticipation. Chris

dink · « **Reply #46 on:** May 31, 2003, 08:59:00 PM »

QUOTE

if you can see the diode details on somebody elses or on another diode of the same type then by all means take a trip to radio shack and see what you can do

Everyone seems to referring point E (R3G2) and point P (R3G4), as a diode. I would disagree. The first letter "R" in R3G2 indicates resistor. "3G" indicates the location of the component on the mobo. Just like a on street map when looking for a steet on a map. (e.g. Main St. = H3) The top right of the mobo is "A1" going down to "G" and from the right to left is "8". You will notice that part of row "A" is missing, because of the cooling fan. The last digit indicates component number.

Also, on the resistor its labeled as "103", which means 10k. 10 + 3 zeros = 10000.

user posted image

donrogelio · « **Reply #47 on:** May 31, 2003, 11:19:00 PM »

Hell yeah i can buy that at radio shack. Would any one have a pic of an alternative a15 point like the back of the board like i've seen for d0. I soldered every thing in and the chameleon is lighting up a dull green, i'm pretty sure i didnt get it in da hole right

.

yardguy00 · « **Reply #48 on:** June 01, 2003, 12:25:00 AM »

god i wish i read this thread b4 i started soldering (aka fucking up my xbox?)
Well i seem to have a diff prob then everyone else.. i hope i can explain it well enough.
i have installed the chameleon using the header pins and i have soldered the d0 , e and p connections.
when i turn on my xbox i dont get any loading screen just black. the chameleon blinks blue consistantly. it does pop out the rom drive. ive tried to load a bios via cd but it just kicks it back out after flashing green green then red. also i cant acctually turn off my xbox.... it just keeps resseting and spitting out the rom drive.
if you guys can help please do.

yardguy00 · « **Reply #49 on:** June 01, 2003, 01:13:00 AM »

QUOTE (dzv @ Jun 1 2003, 08:46 AM)

Sounds like your Eject button is permanently on. You may have damaged something while soldering the E wire. A couple of other guys had similar problems, but with the Power wire. Do what they did to fix it, but to your Eject line.

well i did read those 2 guys fixed there diodes but i didnt really understand how... can someone give a better explanation on that... also whenever i turn off the xbox it just restarts.... is that the p point? argh!!!

explicitlyrics100 · « **Reply #50 on:** June 01, 2003, 02:54:00 AM »

you're right, sorry i just assumed they were diodes from their function but i presume the diode is somewhere else, they are resistors though and thus are much easier to replace (make sure you get a gold band resistor at least though)

Telemachus · « **Reply #51 on:** June 01, 2003, 06:33:00 AM »

QUOTE (dzv @ Jun 1 2003, 09:46 AM)

Sounds like your Eject button is permanently on. You may have damaged something while soldering the E wire. A couple of other guys had similar problems, but with the Power wire. Do what they did to fix it, but to your Eject line.

Wow... these stories of possessed XBOX's get better and better.

The news of all the "unflashed" chameleons is concerning... something that needs to be addressed. The problem is, though, with all of these horror stories, I think the common thread is "I really don't know how to solder and I am trying to solder without having EVER tried it before."

Ok, that may not be the actual case, but all of these resistors getting pulled off, alt D0's getting pulled off, etc. STILL makes me tend to believe that the problem is the soldering jobs, and NOT the chameleon.

My point it, there is no way to tell is your Cham is bad unless you are absolutely sure that the solder job is good.

You need to find someone with a SUCCESSFUL header pin install and try your CHAM on their machine. You DO NOT need D0 soldered/pinned to the cham for it to boot from it (although it does need to be connected if you want to turn OFF the cham), so ask them to pull off their X2, place the cham on, and ground D0. Pay them 10 bucks or so to do it for ya.

Has Xodus yet addressed the posibility that some/many of the chips are not flashed?

yardguy00 · « **Reply #52 on:** June 01, 2003, 08:47:00 AM »

ok im just asking to make sure. my eject button doesnt seem to work. so you guys said it must be stuck on.
but the rom drive does stay shut. my xbox is somewhat still functional with the exception of my eject button and the fact that i cant turn it off with out it turning back on again. its like my power button became a reset button.

oh and yes i was a complete soldering noob

Telemachus · « **Reply #53 on:** June 01, 2003, 09:00:00 AM »

QUOTE (GrisGris @ Jun 1 2003, 03:58 PM)

Okay..but flashed or not, is it not true that if the d0 is properly grounded your Xbox will not boot up normally? Seems like I can't even assume a bad chip until I'm sure the thing is even GOING to LPC... Unlike some others, I have soldered before and my board is doing just fine, but I just can't imagine that I'm not nailing that damn d0.

Actually, I am not sure on this. In theory, grounding the D0 should default to loading from LPC. If there is not chip there, I am not sure what it does.

The best way to tell if you have done d0 right is to test it with a voltometer. Since I don't have one, I take a more primitive approach to it. I have rigged up a watch battery with a small led light. I have a wire leading to the positive end of the battery, and from the negative end I create the circuit with the led. The other wire of the led has an extender wire soldered onto it.

I simply touch the two ends of my circuit to the alternative D0 and the wire that I have installed on the d0 on the front. When the Led lights, I know that I have completed the circuit.

Not really sure how safe this method is (I haven't try it with more than a watch battery), but it works fine for me.

I have not tried it on any other points.

dzv · « **Reply #54 on:** June 01, 2003, 01:04:00 PM »

GrisGris, if you have a digital camera, post a pic of the point your soldered the D0 wire to on the motherboard, so we can verify it's the right point and no bridges/broken traces are apparent.

QUOTE (Telemachus @ Jun 1 2003, 06:00 PM)

Actually, I am not sure on this. In theory, grounding the D0 should default to loading from LPC. If there is not chip there, I am not sure what it does.

If you ground D0 with no chip on the LPC, your Xbox will FRAG.

QUOTE (GrisGris @ Jun 1 2003, 06:28 PM)

I touch it to the non-soldered mobo d0 point though, and I don't get a completed circuit... Am I way off here?

If you touch one probe to the end of your D0 wire (or the point where it's soldered to your Chameleon), then attach the other probe to the non-soldered D0 point on your motherboard, you should get a completed circuit. If not, then you may have soldered the wrong D0 point.

GrisGris · « **Reply #55 on:** June 01, 2003, 01:53:00 PM »

QUOTE (dzv @ Jun 1 2003, 10:04 PM)

GrisGris, if you have a digital camera, post a pic of the point your soldered the D0 wire to on the motherboard, so we can verify it's the right point and no bridges/broken traces are apparent.

dzv...I do have a digital camera but I can't get a close up in focus shot with this thing to save my life...even in macro mode. I am 100% positive that I have the right alt d0 soldered, especially since I am now experiencing the same FRAG issue that most others are. And I got it very quickly on the first try, so I don't think I've done any damage. Also, when I unground it, I get a normal boot.

I'm curious about what someone else mentioned in another thread about there being oversolder on the Chameleon chip as shipped that was causing their FRAG problem.

ronin64 · « **Reply #56 on:** June 01, 2003, 02:56:00 PM »

Has anyone installed external switches and/or leds for the chameleon, yet?

GrisGris · « **Reply #57 on:** June 01, 2003, 03:40:00 PM »

Hmm..maybe it IS me and not the chip... I decided to play with the pinheader solder a bit more. Now when I turn it on, the power light goes orange red and green and ejects the DVD tray (I think that's what Cromwell does). But I'm getting nothing visual. I have to kind of move the Chameleon around and the blue light will come on, but it won't stay on...so it must be my connection...the light is supposed to stay on solid when you get it right..right? Guess I'll keep messing with it...

yardguy00 · « **Reply #58 on:** June 01, 2003, 03:52:00 PM »

ok wow.... i got it to work.... i just changed the dip switches... i guess the first 2 banks were blank but the third was all good....but now i cant get it to recognize my burnt disc.... atleast i think thats the prob.. it just says waiting for drive... so everybody with a fraging xbox try messin witht he dips switches worked for me

donrogelio · « **Reply #59 on:** June 01, 2003, 04:41:00 PM »

i bought a resistor at radio shack and pluged it in and got my xbox working all during my lunch. Just wanted to say thanks and screw this chameleon stuff i'm gonnna put in a cheap mod and call it quits.

Author Topic: Chameleon (Read 1282 times)