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Author Topic: Aladdin Advance Install  (Read 32 times)

anu|b|iss

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Aladdin Advance Install
« on: April 09, 2004, 09:14:00 PM »

well I solder my pins by first applying a little flux paste (only one dab on a toothpick, can do 4 pins) on the pins and on the LPC holes. then tin the pins and holes and solder together. no problems at all.
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ekis

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Aladdin Advance Install
« Reply #1 on: April 09, 2004, 11:10:00 PM »

so you actually dab your iron tip into the LPC holes to tin them first?
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anu|b|iss

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« Reply #2 on: April 10, 2004, 02:54:00 AM »

carefull for double-posts  ohmy.gif

yes I pre-tin the LPC holes because though for some stranger reason, even when everything seems fine and shows proper connection it still fails...
I've seen it often. So this way there is lead solder coating the entire area of the lpc hole assuring a proper connection
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Chancer

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« Reply #3 on: April 11, 2004, 12:21:00 AM »

Safest way is to install a pin header. But that depends on if the LPC holes are already filled with solder or not.
Both methods are easy to do if you have moderate solder skills. If needs be you could also wire the chip to the LPC with wires.
Its a case of whichever you feel most confident about doing.
Direct to Mobo seems to be the one people have most trouble with so try one of the other 2.
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Chancer

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« Reply #4 on: April 11, 2004, 09:16:00 AM »

If you are ok with soldering then the Aladdin will indeed drop straight over the LPC points and solder direct.
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anu|b|iss

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« Reply #5 on: April 11, 2004, 02:33:00 PM »

I found that solder suckers (pumps) can break the crescent PCBs from the chip. I tried one before to lift the solder and the whole PCB came up into the sucker and needed to fix the trace with a wire from the first VIA.
I prefer to use copper mesh and a low power soldering pen.
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Chancer

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« Reply #6 on: April 12, 2004, 01:46:00 PM »

I have used a weller pyropen with the hot air nozzle and desolder braid. Straight forward really. Mind you I use a 40watt weller iron for soldering most things so unless you are certain of how to do it ignore me.
The trick is the speed and the application of the heat, sometimes more damage can be done using too low a wattage iron which hardly melts the solder, consequently most people then tend to keep the iron on the work piece (Connection) too long then if the iron is not powerful enough the solder applied is not fluid so when the iron is removed it can lift the print with it. With a hotter iron the time on the joint being soldered only needs to be short as the solder goes fluid very quickly so its a quick on and off with no damage.
Yes I'll shut up rambling on now.
Glad you sorted a method that suits you cos thats the main thing beerchug.gif
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anu|b|iss

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« Reply #7 on: April 12, 2004, 02:45:00 PM »

My favorite method remains wire install. Because you can change chips by snipping wires instead of heating solder.
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Chancer

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« Reply #8 on: April 23, 2004, 11:13:00 AM »

Yes if you are soldering the chip direct to the mobo solder the extra wires on to the points on top of the LPC/ chip connection points. Make sure you have a 1.5 first otherwise you will be doing it when there is no need. Measure from Pin 2 on the LPC to a graound/earth point with a multimeter, if you have a connection you have a 1.4 and do not need the extra wires. You most probab;y have a 1.4 by the way.
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Chancer

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« Reply #9 on: April 23, 2004, 12:54:00 PM »

If you add the ground and the 3v3 it won't do any harm. You could always fit the chip without the wires and if the chip does not work add the wires after.
The 1.5 boxes are very rare even the new crystal ones are 1.4 so you may find it will work fine without the wires for the 1.5
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