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[g3o]

I need some help guys.
I have an infocus x1 projector which handles hdtv through the vga port.
I tried connecting a vga port to the appropriate points on avip for hdtv and connected my switches, I never bothered with the lm1889 chip (figuring that i dont need it??? ) and booted up xbox, No fragging but no pic either, I have tried a game and evox dash, I cant see anything .

So should it even work this way or is the chip essential ( i didn't see why it was because you can get y/ypb/ypr to vga cables).

Any help much appreciated

G30

[JaredC01]

QUOTE (g3o @ Aug 15 2004, 09:07 AM)

I need some help guys. I have an infocus x1 projector which handles hdtv through the vga port. I tried connecting a vga port to the appropriate points on avip for hdtv and connected my switches, I never bothered with the lm1889 chip (figuring that i dont need it??? ) and booted up xbox, No fragging but no pic either, I have tried a game and evox dash, I cant see anything . So should it even work this way or is the chip essential ( i didn't see why it was because you can get y/ypb/ypr to vga cables). Any help much appreciated G30

If you had read anything about anything in any of the previous posts, or done a search, you would have found out that, unless your monitor/projector supports SOG (sync on green), then you absolutely MUST have the LM1881N chip to separate the sync signals, otherwise you will have no picture period.

In short, YES, you do need the LM1881N chip.

[g3o]

Yeah thanks but i did say my projector supported hdtv through vga.
If i hadn't have skipped the page where you say about using s-video (in b&w) to set up 480p etc i wouldn't have needed to ask .

Anyways i got it working now all thanks to you.

Cheers saved me £50 on an unneeded x2vga.

This post has been edited by g3o: Aug 15 2004, 07:30 PM

[bool]

Hi JaredC01,

I've done this mod to my 1.0 pal xbox. I've switched to NTSC using Enigmah video mode switcher. After that I enabled all HD-TV modes (480p, 720p and 1080p) using the MS Dash. I'm pretty sure my TV supports all of these modes.

Problem: I get B/W output.

It seems that only Y-output (-20, +22) comes trough. When I disconnect Pb (-16, +18) and Pr (-17, +19) display keeps unchanged. When I only connect Pb or Pr I get blue (or red) waving lines (garbled).

Also I've triple checked the wires. And all -poles are GNDs. I've checked that too.

I very much hope you can point out some hints to solve this problem.

Thanks in advance,

This post has been edited by bool: Aug 17 2004, 10:41 PM

[AlTheKiller]

bool,  i would play with the switch settings.  i did the mod on my buddieds box and we had b/w out put in all modes but composite.  i accidentally bumped the switch (the wrong way i might add) and suddenly there was color.  actually, we have color on component, s-video, and composite at the same time. which i dont think is supposed to work...oh well.    

[bool]

I have the correct switch settings and no output in color in any other mode

[JaredC01]

QUOTE (bool @ Aug 17 2004, 03:24 PM)

Hi JaredC01, I've done this mod to my 1.0 pal xbox. I've switched to NTSC using Enigmah video mode switcher. After that I enabled all HD-TV modes (480p, 720p and 1080p) using the MS Dash. I'm pretty sure my TV supports all of these modes. Problem: I get B/W output. It seems that only Y-output (-20, +22) comes trough. When I disconnect Pb (-16, +18) and Pr (-17, +19) display keeps unchanged. When I only connect Pb or Pr I get blue (or red) waving lines (garbled). Also I've triple checked the wires. And all -poles are GNDs. I've checked that too. I very much hope you can point out some hints to solve this problem. Thanks in advance,

I had the same problem for a while, after resoldering a few times, I finally got one of the colors to work.  For the second color, I had to run a bridge wire to an alternate point on the motherboard.

Check your soldering again.  Did you remove the AVIP completely, or did you just add seperate wires for the jacks?  If you removed it completely, then what may be happening, is that since some of the traces are on the TOP side of the AVIP, if you only solder on the bottom of the AVIP, you may not be getting a connection to the trace located on the top.  If you kept your AVIP and just added wires to each of the pins, then check your soldering.  I'll post the jumper spots I used a little later when I get the chance.

[spillage]

The XBOX mobo is not just double sided. There are, what looks likes to me, two other layers in the PCB. This inverse backlit image I took of the AVIP indicates quite clearly traces within the layers. I have removed the AVIP before and have since returned it after a project plan change. I would suggest you liberally ply the AVIP area with flux forcing it into the holes. When you solder make sure you apply just the right amount so as to get deep penetration (don't go there ), whilst making sure you don't get solder shorting the pins of the AVIP socket underside. Only experience can help you there.

(IMG:http://img.villagephotos.com/p/2003-9/392648/Pict0012a.jpg)

This post has been edited by spillage: Aug 18 2004, 10:56 PM

[CreziB]

So my question is-  Is it safe to remove the audio/video input from the mobo or not?  If I could remove that dumb port, then that would free up a lot of room on the back panel for all the inputs.  I want to add all except vga.  I see that Jared talks about the traces ontop...being that I haven't removed the input, yet...are there any areas that I would be unable to solder to that would need it without the avip?

So that's my plan, remove the avip and fill the opening.  Then, add all the inputs cept for vga.

[JaredC01]

QUOTE (CreziB @ Aug 19 2004, 10:47 AM)

So my question is-  Is it safe to remove the audio/video input from the mobo or not?  If I could remove that dumb port, then that would free up a lot of room on the back panel for all the inputs.  I want to add all except vga.  I see that Jared talks about the traces ontop...being that I haven't removed the input, yet...are there any areas that I would be unable to solder to that would need it without the avip? So that's my plan, remove the avip and fill the opening.  Then, add all the inputs cept for vga.

I have removed the AVIP myself.  Yes, you are able to remove it and still get everything to work, but as Spillage said, there are multiple layers of traces, so you would need to apply flux throughout the holes to make sure you get the solder all the way through the hole, and not just on one side or another.  Applying flux will insure you get good contact with the trace, wherever it may be on/in the mobo.

I didn't apply any flux myself, and had to resolder multiple times, and eventually solder to an alternate spot on the mobo for 2 of my wires.  You're better off using flux the first time.

[sandman1687]

i was wondering, has anyone attempted to make a break-out box with every single connector on the diagram? also, im not too keen on removing the AVIP connector (and since i have an extra standard av cable), so could someone write up a quick diagram explaining what pins on JaredC01's diagram correspond to the av cable? thanks.

also, i was thinking, could a RF adapter be incorporated into the design (i have a MS brand rf adapter, and i dont mind tearing it apart).

[spillage]

JaredC01's diagram is superb and way better than mine, so I am confused as to why you can't figure out what's what.  

The AV Cable, aka the standard one, has composite and L&R audio, and mode select jumpers to instruct the encoder. JaredC01's diagram is all you need.

Yes you can wire up the RF adaptor as well but not use it simulataneously. The encoder needs to be setup differently for RF so check the diagram for mode select for RF. The audio/video pins used are the same as AV Cable.

If you do attempt to take the AVIP off, which is totally 'do-able', be careful, don't force it as you try to get it off. The AVIP connector is not very tough nor is it heat resistant. Use plently of good quality flux, resolder the connections then use a desolder pump to remove it. It is very unlikely to 'play ball' so you have to keep trying. My advice would be to use at least a 25W iron and not to keep the iron on the lands, as you run the risk of lifting a trace as they expand.

Good luck, post back your experience.

This post has been edited by spillage: Aug 20 2004, 02:56 AM

[JaredC01]

QUOTE (sandman1687 @ Aug 19 2004, 06:35 PM)

i was wondering, has anyone attempted to make a break-out box with every single connector on the diagram? also, im not too keen on removing the AVIP connector (and since i have an extra standard av cable), so could someone write up a quick diagram explaining what pins on JaredC01's diagram correspond to the av cable? thanks. also, i was thinking, could a RF adapter be incorporated into the design (i have a MS brand rf adapter, and i dont mind tearing it apart).

A few things... 1.  The standard XBox cable only has wiring for the three standard A/V jacks.  You can use the plug part itself with different wiring like nickman did if you wish to do it that way.  2.  You can find the info for making an external cable/box Here.

I did not make the diagram on that website, so don't post any problems with it to me.  xerxes3rd made a translation chart from the pins on that site to the pins in my diagram.  My diagram uses the actual M$ numbering of the pins.

Here is a link to the translation chart.

[sandman1687]

i was looking for some component connectors, but after rereading JaredC01's posts, i found the packets of 4 RCA jacks for 4 bucks a piece, not bad. i also managed to hunt down a lm1881n for like 3 bucks online, so thats not too bad either. a D-sub connector (female) is 2 bucks at radioshack. for under $15, you can put together the entire av pack, every connector. im planning on  building it, and will report back (hopefully sometime next week when the LM comes through the mail) with the entire project (including the RF outputs, so i can have low-low-tech to high-high-tech)

[sandman1687]

upon further reading, i realize that with the RF unit, only a composite video signal and a mono (left channel) audio signal are sent to the adapter, along with power. so add another jumper setting to the table, switch 3 sends power and standard av signals (possibly right channel audio also?)