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[catdog2]

QUOTE (pedro @ Nov 18 2004, 04:27 PM)

I recently did an install for a guy using an x2.6 on a v1.6 xbox. do I need to have the guy bring his xbox back in so I can do this to it? and all I do is solder the resistor and cut the trace? sounds easy enough.

Its completely up to you whether you want to bring the xbox back and add this extra mod - but I would definately recommend you do it on any future installs.  Yes soldering the resistor and cutting a trace is very easy!

QUOTE (gnelson)

I am planning on buying a modchip for a new 1.6 box. I was looking at X3, Xenium Ice or SmartXX - leaning toward Xenium Ice. Do any/all of these chips have the same problem that is described in this post?

Unfortunately I don't have any of these chips, hopefully someone will post the results of measuring LFRAME voltage while the chip is running.  I will update this thread if I find info on these chips.

QUOTE (Exige_)

Great research, this will definitely save many XBoxes . I love my 1.0. EDIT: However, as this is a great method, I do remember reading an older manual from SmartXX that seemed to draw current and ground it while simultaneously completing the same result. It seems that have the current withdrawal featured in this new device that you can order from them for the bottom side of the 1.6 motherboard.

Im not quite sure what you are trying to say here.  Grounding LFRAME either directly or through the modchip is the problem. The PCB to fit on the bottom of the 1.6 is just an easier method than using wires - it has nothing to do with this mod and doesn't effect the current flow problem.

QUOTE (Exige_)

However, I'm sure you have already, but be sure to contact Team SmartXX and see what they think on your experiment. They seem to be the more intelligent of the modchip developing teams. I ahve a SmartXX, and it's easy to tell they worked hard and made a truely amazing piece of hardware and an astounding package of software.

No I havn't contacted them - hopefully they have already dealt with this problem on existing chips by releasing LFRAME after booting. I'm waiting for someone with a Smartxx to confirm if this is the case or not.

QUOTE (Sneeekey)

this is good stuff. I just got my 1.6 today and ordered an X3. I'm definitely going to use the resistor as I don't want to ruin this new toy. One question though: I was comparing the image originally posted (top of the very first post in this thread) with the URL=http://http://www.teamxecuter.com/x3/tutorials/x3pin16.htm]X3 install tutorial for 1.6 pinheader[/URL](had to save the original 'resistor install' image local, and flip it upside down to match the two up), and I noticed that there is an extra LPC connection on the resistor install pic. If you are looking at the resistor install image "non-flipped" its in the second row five down and runs almost straight to the left. Can anyone tell me what this connection is? Does not having this connection affect the X3 install?

Pin 9 on the LPC (which you are referring to in that long description    ) is 3.3V.  The wire is required to power some modchips, but the X3 doesn't require it.

[Firebaall]

Very, very interesting.

I have recently purchase a batch of Aladdin XT lites.  I have wired my first install for an "always on" config by grounding the D0 ( Lframe ) on a 1.6 xbox.  So, if I get what you're saying correctly, by installing a 680 ohm resistor between said points in the diagram ( in lieu of a direct ground ), I can alleviate worries about prematurely overdriving the xboxes D0 output?

Is there a wattage rating of the resistor?  Do you have a part number for the surface mount component?  If the surface mount resistor isn't available, can I use a standard resistor?  I'd like to safe gaurd my handiwork, by taking this precaution.  TIA!

One other point....are the lpc rebuild pcbs ( Smartxx, Aladdin, ect, ect.... )addressing this problem?

[catdog2]

QUOTE (Firebaall @ Nov 19 2004, 09:25 AM)

Very, very interesting. I have recently purchase a batch of Aladdin XT lites.  I have wired my first install for an "always on" config by grounding the D0 ( Lframe ) on a 1.6 xbox.  So, if I get what you're saying correctly, by installing a 680 ohm resistor between said points in the diagram ( in lieu of a direct ground ), I can alleviate worries about prematurely overdriving the xboxes D0 output? Is there a wattage rating of the resistor?  Do you have a part number for the surface mount component?  If the surface mount resistor isn't available, can I use a standard resistor?  I'd like to safe gaurd my handiwork, by taking this precaution.  TIA! One other point....are the lpc rebuild pcbs ( Smartxx, Aladdin, ect, ect.... )addressing this problem?

For an "always on" installation you can just cut the track on the top of the motherboard, and connect the LFRAME point shown in the diagram to ground (you don't need to worry about the resistor at all).  The resistor is there to allow the xbox to work with the mod on or off without any problems.

1/8 W (0.125 W) or higher is fine (actual power used is 0.02W).  

It doesn't matter if you use a standard resistor or surface mount - I just had surface mount available and it does a clean tidy job.  A 1/4 W standard resistor can be installed, just cut the wire short, bend it into shape and solder the ends to the vias shown.

The rebuild PCBs are just an easier method to install a modchip into a v1.6 - they are exactly the same as using wires.

[triggernum5]

68mA?!  I'm surprised you can't smell it..  
Awfully nice of you to take the time to explain it in such detail..  Hopefully this will save more xboxes than it kills..  Not through any fault of catdog2, I'm just picturing a 14 year old kid taking a steak knife to his data tracks..

[pimpmaul69]

so the question i have is if u use a dpdt switch y not just y not have a wire on both d0 points on either side of the trace u break and have when u turn the mod off u fip the switch so that direction is making contact to the 2 d0 points and the unmodded mode works and no resistor needed

[triggernum5]

That would work, but it is unnecessary to dink with a switch.. if a 680Ohm resistor takes it down to ~5mA that is perfect..

[Lorvar]

So is this mod needed with the Xenium Ice? Anyone know for sure?

Lor

[Exige_]

I have a SmartXX, but it's a 1.0 XBox. However, I would sitll like to know how to measure and/or observe the release of LFRAME from the chip.

[Overfur]

QUOTE (catdog2 @ Nov 19 2004, 07:13 AM)

Its completely up to you whether you want to bring the xbox back and add this extra mod - but I would definately recommend you do it on any future installs.  Yes soldering the resistor and cutting a trace is very easy! Im not quite sure what you are trying to say here.  Grounding LFRAME either directly or through the modchip is the problem. The PCB to fit on the bottom of the 1.6 is just an easier method than using wires - it has nothing to do with this mod and doesn't effect the current flow problem. Pin 9 on the LPC (which you are referring to in that long description    ) is 3.3V.  The wire is required to power some modchips, but the X3 doesn't require it.

     really believe this shit.. i dont trust electricity..  

[networkBoy]

QUOTE (triggernum5 @ Nov 19 2004, 10:14 AM)

I'm just picturing a 14 year old kid taking a steak knife to his data tracks..

I got a visual on that and it ain't pretty!
-nB

[catdog2]

QUOTE (pimpmaul69)

so the question i have is if u use a dpdt switch y not just y not have a wire on both d0 points on either side of the trace u break and have when u turn the mod off u fip the switch so that direction is making contact to the 2 d0 points and the unmodded mode works and no resistor needed

A resistor is cheaper and more reliable, and as triggernum5 said "it is unnecessary to dink with a switch."  This is trying to achieve full modchip functionality (on/off) without having to add extra complications for the user.

QUOTE (pin87a)

Out of curiosity why do you recommend grounding LFRAME and cutting the trace for a "always on" install? If you just cut the trace the Xbox will always boot from the chip.

You're right, it will work by just cutting the track.

I was worried about leaving LFRAME floating in an unknown state, but on closer inspection there is a pull up resistor in the motherboard design so this wont occur.

Firebaall: For always on just cut the track and don't worry about connecting LFRAME to anything.

[catdog2]

QUOTE (gnelson @ Nov 19 2004, 10:15 PM)

For those of us asking about Xenium ICE.  I posted at TeamXodus asking if this was an issue with the Xenium ICE and got this response from the moderator: "The Xenium ICE does not short the LFRAME to ground like 3rd gen chips and cheapmods require, therefore this 'problem' doesn't apply. The Xenium ICE actually controls the D0 with digital pulses from its CPLD, so you don't have to worry about this issue at all."

Thanks, I have edited the first post with this information.

[Firebaall]

QUOTE (catdog2 @ Nov 19 2004, 09:23 PM)

Firebaall: For always on just cut the track and don't worry about connecting LFRAME to anything.

Thanks Catdog2!

I'll go give it a go.  I'm sure the xbox will be much happier without the extra current running though it's poor ol' ICs when the Lframe is being grounded.  

[Lorvar]

QUOTE (gnelson @ Nov 19 2004, 10:15 PM)

For those of us asking about Xenium ICE.  I posted at TeamXodus asking if this was an issue with the Xenium ICE and got this response from the moderator: "The Xenium ICE does not short the LFRAME to ground like 3rd gen chips and cheapmods require, therefore this 'problem' doesn't apply. The Xenium ICE actually controls the D0 with digital pulses from its CPLD, so you don't have to worry about this issue at all."

Nicely done, I couldn't sleep last night not knowing

[Firebaall]

Works great catdog2!

Thanks.  I'll pass along the info!