Topic: PS3 Controller Versions and TP Spots (Read 2552 times)

RDC · « **Reply #120 on:** July 29, 2012, 01:35:00 PM »

Welcome.

All versions of the PS3 controllers use the same 3 Common line setup..

COM1 for the Left side, D-pad L1 and L2
COM2 for the Right side, X, O, [ ], /\, R1 and R2
COM3 for the Middle, Select, Start, L3 and R3.

On the VX3 TP18 is COM2 (first page of thread) so TP18 + O = O button.

RDC · « **Reply #121 on:** July 31, 2012, 06:36:00 AM »

If you need it done for you in that kind of detail then you're probably better off having someone just do it for you so it's done correctly.

The VX4 version board's spots are right there on the first page of this thread with all of the other controller versions TP spots, and they are all already clearly marked.

The orange dot above the O in the VX4 pic is for the O button, and then the same thing that applies to all PS3 controllers about the COM lines, that is stated in the reply above your post, as well as in the TP spots section, goes for the controller as well, in short that is, TP18 is the COM line for the O button. TP18 and the orange dot are the spots you'll use for the new O button.

RDC · « **Reply #122 on:** July 31, 2012, 07:08:00 AM »

You clearly haven't bothered to read anything in this entire thread, or even the reply I posted.

QUOTE

TP18 is the COM line for the O button. TP18 and the orange dot are the spots you'll use for the new O button.

TP18, which has been clearly marked already by Sony on the board, with the white TP18 next to it and the circle around it, can also easily be seen in the pic of the VX4 there.

RDC · « **Reply #123 on:** July 31, 2012, 07:28:00 AM »

It's about as newb friendly as it can get when it comes to the PS3 controllers. They're not your grandaddies controller by a long shot. If you haven't even had the thing open yet, then you'll probably be shocked to see that those spots are around 20 times smaller than what they look like in the pics there, a dime will cover most of the area in those pics. It's also not a controller I'd recommend cutting your teeth on, especially if you don't want to tank it during the process.

bobrocka387 · « **Reply #124 on:** August 01, 2012, 07:22:00 PM »

Thanks RDC.

Unfortunately I got impatient and went ahead and did it before you replied (wish I had waited). Destroyed both my controllers, dropped a big glob of solder on the one processor and melted the other daughter board to bits, but managed to bubblegum them together, got the button on and everything, but now my R1 doesnt work =[. Working on getting it fixed as I type this (waiting for the iron to heat up). At the risk of sounding like a fan boy I just wanted to say how much I appreciate what you guys are doing here It's really a big help.

***EDIT*** Destroyed it, hate my life

RDC · « **Reply #125 on:** August 01, 2012, 10:19:00 PM »

@ DesireX69 - Any N.O. type of switch will work, it's more of a personal preference what you decide to put in there as well as what will fit. One of the more typical switches used is the 6x6x7mm Tact switch, that can be found at Mouser, DigiKey and the like.

@ bobrocka387 - I doubt destroyed is the best definition, Daughter board is for sure as that's not meant to be soldered on, or even near, but those can be replaced. A solder blob doesn't mean it's ruined anything, just shorted things that shouldn't touch, and they can be removed in most cases without using the iron, and even if it was made into a mess of all the pins on the MCU shorted together it can still be removed. Even damaged traces and Vias can be repaired, though not typically by the same person that made them that way.

pnutbutter-n-jam · « **Reply #126 on:** August 02, 2012, 11:37:00 PM »

Thanks RDC for putting this thread together.

I'm modding my controller (MSU_V2) by adding 4 extra buttons (X,/\,O,[]). I've already mapped the TP points, soldered each wire and tested them to make sure they work (they do). The solder points are about as good as I can get them to be, but they are still pretty fragile. My question is, can I cover the entire soldered area with a layer of non-conductive epoxy? Granted that I ensure the solder points do not touch each other?

Also, I don't plan on changing the mod once its finished.

Thanks,

peanut

DesireX69 · « **Reply #127 on:** August 03, 2012, 02:18:00 AM »

Ok so i opened it up and noticed the switch was wired wrong... so i corrected that and secured the wires so if i drop it would not break on me lol

After doing that and putting it all back together Every button works no glitches or problems O and Switch work. before only Switch did. all buttons
work in the Shutdown menu unlike before it did not. so im happy it all works
So now i got a perfectly working controller with working mods.
Im done modding it for now though. Happy modding people!

RDC · « **Reply #128 on:** August 03, 2012, 06:28:00 AM »

QUOTE(pnutbutter-n-jam @ Aug 2 2012, 11:37 PM)

Thanks RDC for putting this thread together.

...My question is, can I cover the entire soldered area with a layer of non-conductive epoxy? Granted that I ensure the solder points do not touch each other?

Technically you could, though you're much better off using hot glue for that versus some kind of epoxy. If you'd ever have to take it back apart, or a wire still worked it's way loose after gluing it up with epoxy, you'd have an incredible mess to try and repair that and end up just doing more damage digging that stuff off the board. You also do not want to glue right on top of your solder joint unless you're planning to stick the board in some kind of harsh environment, try and glue back from it just a bit so you still have access to the joint if needed.

datakiller · « **Reply #129 on:** August 06, 2012, 04:48:00 AM »

Hello,
(IMG:style_emoticons/default/laugh.gif) Really dont know what to say, thank you first of all about this thread and for all the information you provide.

i have been searching this for a while, i want to create an arcade stick for my ps3, and i have MSU_VX5_0.06, and really don't know how to start.

tell me please, where do i have to put resistance and with which button??

how much resistance i have to get?

thanks for the reply.

This post has been edited by datakiller: Aug 6 2012, 12:07 PM

RDC · « **Reply #130 on:** August 06, 2012, 09:48:00 AM »

Welcome.

The PS3 controller isn't like other controllers, and it can't be added to some existing arcade stick layout or another controller without doing some more work, so make sure this is going to be a PS3 only stick and that none of the switches in it are already wired together in any way. If you're making one from the ground up then you're good to go. You'll be able to wire up the COM lines with only 1 wire on the board for each one, and then just jumper around to the other buttons you need, instead of 1 COM wire for each button run back to the board (there's no room for that anyway) but they don't all share the same COM line. All of that info is in this thread also.

You can use any value from 2k to 10k really, though I'd just go with 10k as they are easier to get here and there. You will only need 2 of them for this.

On that VX5 there you can install the first Resistor from TP10 to TP17, then the other one from TP10 to TP18, and that will take care of the Pull-Ups that were on the Daughter board, so it can be tossed.

I don't recommend it for additional buttons and such, but since you're building an arcade stick from the controller, the best way to solder up all of the wires to where you need is to use the existing connection where the Daughter board mated up to the controller board, all of those black rectangle looking spots on the top of the board. You'll need to carefully scrape off that carbon coating and expose the copper, then tin it up with some new solder and then you can use those spots to solder up your wires. They're still small, and I'd use a 30awg size wire, but they're far easier to solder to than trying to prep and solder to the Vias on the board.

datakiller · « **Reply #131 on:** August 06, 2012, 10:15:00 AM »

Hello,

Really thanks for the reply, you have already answered all my questions without even asking them.

i'll do what you have suggested, you're right, its the best way, i only need one last confirmation, this picture is about the diagram for an earlier version of the DS3, is the number's same for my DS version?

(IMG:http://www.slagcoin.com/joystick/pcb_diagrams/ps3_diagram3.jpg)

i'm talking about the numbers 1 to 20, i have checked, and found that the 20 is also the R2 and 1 is L2. !

need your confirmation before starting (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif)

Thank you.

This post has been edited by datakiller: Aug 6 2012, 05:19 PM

RDC · « **Reply #132 on:** August 06, 2012, 01:59:00 PM »

The pinout for those connections is in the TP spots VX3 section, as that's when they started using it. You should have a read thru that whole post, as I really only cover major changed between versions, instead of making up a whole bunch of kind of useless pics and such for every single version since a lot of it is the same from one to the next. The layout hasn't changed since then and is the same for the VX4, VX5 and Asuka boards. It's also the same order as the older version there, they're just staggered versus the inline layout of the older type, but it's still the same 1st pad is L2 and the 20th pad is R2 layout.

datakiller · « **Reply #133 on:** August 07, 2012, 04:44:00 AM »

Really thanks, i'll start this today, and post the result. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif)

datakiller · « **Reply #134 on:** August 07, 2012, 05:49:00 AM »

i'm back, last noob question about the GRD.

i'll use one ground for the joystick, another one for the buttons, can i use a third one for select start and ps button? or two grounds are correct?

Author Topic: PS3 Controller Versions and TP Spots (Read 2552 times)