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[odingalt]

RDC,

My staff ran across two "Rev 1.06: Asuka PCB Made in China" circuit boards this week, when we expected to see VX5 circuit boards.  These were wireless PS3 controllers that were ordered using the latest Sony SKU# 99013 for white wireless DualShock3 sixaxis controllers.  Staff sent me a phone camera picture by text message (attached below).  I am leaving for a vacation in Hawaii tomorrow, so unfortunately I won't be able to take hi-res pictures or even put an oscilloscope onto these until I get back on the 23rd.

By the way - thank you for posting the VX5 board scans and pics of the modified battery.  I'm ashamed to not have contributed board scans for the VX5 when I got my hands on one early.

TAKE A LOOK AT THE JOYSTICKS.  Sony returning to the "three leg" potentiometer type joysticks to save money?

(IMG:http://i917.photobucket.com/albums/ad16/odingalt/IMG954944.jpg)

This post has been edited by odingalt: Feb 14 2012, 10:25 AM

[RDC]

QUOTE(odingalt @ Feb 14 2012, 03:16 AM)

RDC,

By the way - thank you for posting the VX5 board scans and pics of the modified battery.  I'm ashamed to not have contributed board scans for the VX5 when I got my hands on one early.

TAKE A LOOK AT THE JOYSTICKS.  Sony returning to the "three leg" potentiometer type joysticks to save money?

 

You're Welcome, and thanks for posting up that pic.

That thing looks more like a 3rd party controller to me. None of the TP spots have anything in common with any other version of PS3 controller. The way the silkscreen is missing from components, that Reset switch, Analog sticks. The Accelerometer having 2 spots is nothing new, but they've always had it laid out one on each side of the board, not both right next to each other. Curious to see the other side of that board now.

Parts of it seem kind of Sony, but most of it just doesn't look like them at all. If they've decided to go this route with the controllers, then I'd wager they've saved a ton of money on making them, both in parts and the quality of the PCBs.

[RDC]

You're Welcome.

As soon as I run across one it will be done up like all of the rest, just haven't seen one here yet.

[freakk]

I recently bought a new ps3 and I got 2 controllers with 2 of those pcb board as in the pic of odingalt.

I really looked everywhere on the web but I can't find the tp of this board and I really need them..
Someone any idea how to find the points on my own?

[RDC]

Get out the DMM, a good magnifying glass, pencil and paper, then start tracing out what connects to what and document it all.

[sagoku]

ciao ragazzi ... io sono Sasà, sono italiano, ho rotto il joypad e volevo un consiglio/aiuto.
per esser esatti ho bruciato il smd D1, suppongo sia il cmos dell'alimentazione usb.
qualcuno sa dirmi come si chiama il componente che dovei comprare per sostituirlo ?
essendo bruciato non leggo la sigla, inoltre non trovo il datasheet per il sixaxis (no dualshock3)

Google translate

hello guys ... I am Sasa, I'm Italian, I broke my joypad and I wanted some advice / help.
to be exact I burned the smd D1, I suppose is the cmos usb power.
someone can tell me what the name of the component that must to buy to replace it?
being burned do not read the code, also I do not find the datasheet for the SIXAXIS (no DualShock3)

[RDC]

Looking up some of those SMT part numbers can be next to impossible sometimes.

The best thing to do would be to get one from another controller.

 D1 is marked with 500 on it for the older Six-Axis only controllers, but it  appears to be the same part on all of the different revisions no matter the part number, so any  of them should work in place of that one.

It may work if it's just removed, as it seems to be on there only for protection, but if yours is burnt up there could be other problems with your controller as well since that part is also connected to the D+ and D- lines.


Google Translate

Guardando in alto alcuni di questi codici SMT può essere quasi impossibile a volte.

La cosa migliore da fare sarebbe quella di ottenere uno da un altro controller.

D1 è contrassegnato con 500 su di esso per i vecchi controllori unici a sei assi, ma sembra essere la stessa parte su tutte le versioni diverse non importa il numero di parte, quindi nessuno di loro dovrebbe funzionare al posto di quello.

Può funzionare se è appena rimosso, come sembra essere in lì solo per la protezione, ma se il vostro è bruciato ci potrebbero essere altri problemi con il controller e dal momento che parte è anche collegato ai D + e D-linee.

This post has been edited by RDC: Mar 12 2012, 06:58 PM

[RDC]

The Asuka Rev: 1.06 board has been added.

Thanks again to odingalt for donating the board.

[sagoku]

@ RDC
thanks a lot =o)
i'll try as u suggested.

c u next time bye =o)

[sagoku]

I would add that however, the controller works without wire but doesn't charge anymore. I'll try to repair it. bye

[i7vSa7vi7y]

ASUKA REV: 1.06

The X is R1 and the [ ] is O on this pic.
I'm adding O and X mod but the points are wrong on this image.

[RDC]

Show pics of your board and soldering, because they aren't wrong for the one I have here, so those pics are correct.

[RDC]

Only the VX5 version is like that, from all the ones I've seen anyway, the rest are still a 'split' design.

Technically it's possible. You'll need to desolder one of the connectors from the older style boards and then wire it up to the corresponding spots on the newer style board, which would be far, far, far more work than just mounting the LED off to the side. The easiest thing to do would be to use the Daughter board and contact pad from another version of controller that still has the split design.

[RDC]

You wouldn't need to change the bracket and everything, just the FPC is all, the thin plastic Daughter board.

There isn't a tutorial for that specific version that I know of.

There's all kinds of room for LEDs, when you're using 0603 SMT size ones that is, to put it at the top or bottom edge of the PS button. It doesn't have to shine up from under the button to light it up. You can get a 3mm one stuffed in there, but it's more work than it needs to be also.

[RDC]

Welcome.