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[OCF]

I've just finished fitting the xbox in to a dvd player case, after spending 30 hours on it over the past 3 days its finaly coming together, only problem is it wont switch on .

basic outlines of the setup are,
- Mobo and PSU mounted with plastic standoffs
- RCA/Coaxial in rear of DVD player have been wired up
- Using modified stock DVD/HDD mounts from xbox
- 2 ports in front of case
- Hardwired DVD Dongle + Activity Light
- Ethernet socket extended to backplate + Activity light
- 2x60mm rear exhaust fans both drawing power from xbox mobo fan header
- running a modified PC fan controller/temperature monitor fitted to faceplate, controlled,via stock DVD player buttons
- reusing stock DVD player power/eject buttons

I've reused the Xbox PSU insulation, cut it smaller and placed it under the psu in the new case, another piece of it is being used to insulate a section on the underside of the Mobo that I suspected may short out.

I just don't know where to start troubleshooting the new case, I've tried running on bare minimum components, e.g. just P/E board, nothing seems to work, tried raising the PSU and Mobo so they sit high on the standoffs to rule out possibility of the undersides of PSU/Mobo shorting out. Just before I installed the parts in the new case I tested them back in my crystal XCM case, all worked fine ran it with just Mobo/PSU/PE Board booted up and got to fluber screen.


How can I begin finding out what exactly is failing?

sorry if my explanation was confusing if you need any more info about the setup just ask

Thanks

OCF

edit -
grammar

[OCF]

QUOTE

I think the Power supply has 2 points that should be linked together.
This is normally done by the metal shielding in the xbox. The 2 screw points are linked and also connected to the shield of the xbox. This also connects to multiple points on the xbox mobo, altough those should already be connected on the mobo itself.

I don't know if the connection is needed for the normal operation of the xbox... I am just pointing to the differences between the original case and the new one.

that seems plausible, I was wracking my brains trying to think of any differences to running the xbox hardware in the stock case against a custom one, could you provide any more info about the two points that should be linked. Has ayone else come across this problem in a custom case they have made and if any such solution as linking points on the PSU helped?

BTW I am using a premade PC ATX extension cable to lengthen the PSU's motherboard power connector, could this somehow be affecting the wat the PSU connects with the xbox mobo e.g. order of wires differs in xbox compared to PC

as for the Fan controller its running completley independant of the Xbox, I probably wont even be using the fan controlling capabilities of it rather just using it for its 4 temp sensors which come in very handy in ensuring this new case has suffecient cooling.

If I can get this box working I'll post pics of the case in all its glory

thanks in advance

OCF

[OCF]

sounds like a plan, I'll take a look at the extension cable and make sure wires are running to the correct pins, about the pins that you said are linked y the original case, what are they. I dont have easy access to the internet so I'd rather go away with a few solutions and try them all.

thanks

[Dano2k0]

Nothing on the PSU connects on the shielding as such, only ground, but the PSU will work perfectly fine without this, the shielding is only there to help prevent interference getting into the box to begin with.

It will make no difference to the 'working' of the motherboard or PSU without it, so you can rule that out.

If you have just got an extension cable and it is pin to pin with no cross-overs on the way, this should also be fine. Though if your unsure check each pin on the PSU is to each pin on the end of the extension cable, ie pin 1 goes to pin 1 on the end of the extension cable, get it?

As it doesn't power up, i think something has probably already shorted and blown, taking care i'd check the PSU on either another motherboard, or use a multimeter and check if there is standby voltage available, it should be 3.3v

If standby voltage is there, something is more than likely wrong with the motherboard. If there is no standby voltage on the PSU output, then its the PSU thats at fault.

Always take care when working with PSU's etc, electricity can be dangerous!

[Dano2k0]

Yes sorry forgot to add 1.6 standby voltage is indeed 5v, every other xbox version is 3.3v

If you have a 1.6, its more than likely the switching power transistor that has died, this will have been due to a short.

Cheers.

[OCF]

I just remembered another symptom of this problem, when I was trying to get the xbox working in the new case I accidentaly left the AC power plug connected to the PSU, the xbox still wasnt switching on so I left the xbox and was busy with something else, a while later I remembered that I had left the power cord connected, when I went to take it out I noticed that I could feel heat when my hand was close to the PSU, im sure it was emenating from the PSU heatsinks (ones with voltage danger signs on them).

just thought this might help, im gonna try testing the voltages coming from the psu now and see if I can find the problem.

thanks

OCF

[OCF]

ok quick update, when AC power cord is plugged in PowerOn (white wire) shows 0.00V and doesnt change even when the power button is pressed, PowerOK (blue wire) shows 3.26V and doesnt change either when the power button is pressed,

How can I check if the switching power transistor is blown or not?, I just noticed that one of the wires connecting the AC power inlet to the PSU PCB has just broken, I dont have time right now to continue testing but as soon as I have time again Ill retest the setup some more and post back. In the mean time all advice welcome

regards

OCF

[OCF]

bump plz help guys  

[OCF]

okay Ive found the problem, I tested the xbox back in the stock case and it worked fine, because I suspected the ATX power cable extender before I thought I would test it to be sure, lo and behold when the atx extension is being used the xbox doesn't boot up, Im not sure exactly what the problem with the cable itself is but im determined to find out.

Only differences I can visibly see between the atx extension and the stock xbox atx connector is the stock atx power connector has a block of 4 cables missing, you'll know what I mean if you've seen an xbox ATX connector pinout, the second difference is the PowOK and PowON cables (blue and white) are both 22AWG on the stock connector whereas all other cables e.g. 5v, 12v, Ground are 18AWG, but the ATX extension cable uses 18AWG to extend all the cables including the PowOK and PowON, could this be causing a problem somehow?

regards

OCF

[OCF]

the atx extension cable had a few wires mixed up, guess PC atx specs are different.

anyone know an easy way to way to remove the pin from ATX connector? without using a premade pin extractor.

thanks

[obcd]

Hi,

it is almost impossible to remove those pins without a special extraction tool.
maybe your local computer shop has such a tool and is willing to switch the needed wires?

regards.

[OCF]

got the wires switched finaly, ended up using a pin to release the 2 clips holding each pin in place.

the atx extension cable seems to be working properly, just gonna get the xbox together for the final time, then pics will be ready

[OCF]

got the xbox working finaly, everything seems ok apart from the fact that the xbox doesnt seem to be detecting a controller, I tested all individual controller wires, all are intact no unexpected breaks. No matter what port header I use 1/2 or 3/4 still have no control with the gamepad. Ive tried switching individual and headers makes no difference and Ive tried 2 different controllers and 3 different breakaway cables.

Im wondering if I may have got the order of wires in the gamepad mobo connector wrong, Ive been looking for the past hour for a mobo gamepad header pinout but just cant find one anywhere, anyone care to oblige?

BTW a question for anyone that has a hardwired DVD dongle + Activity LED, does the activity LED only illuminate when you direct signals from the xbox DVD remote to the IR or does it illuminate from IR activity from any remote?

thanks

[OCF]

After testing the sets of controller ports and headers for a while I've determined that it is the actual controller ports and not anything else that are faulty, controller ports 3/4 are being used for a USB port and hardwired DVD dongle whereas 1/2 are standard controller ports, when I plug a controller in to 3/4 it works fine, but ports 1/2 are a mystery, I've checked every individual connection 3 times for continuity and theres no problem there.

the only difference between the controller ports is the ports that arent working have been extended by approx 8-12 inches, could this cause problems with data signals etc?, I seem to remember something about the max distance for a USB device being 2m, this is well under so why am I experiencing problems?


please any advice is welcome

regards

OCF

[kirky1991]

You may be expieriencing USB problems as they extended 8-12 inches + the length of the controller cable which is just under 2 meters i think