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[event horizon]

QUOTE(bassquake @ Jun 10 2009, 07:23 PM)

Hey. I realise my question will be slightly off topic but I plan to post my snes & megadrive mod on this thread.

Anyway, can anyone recommend a glue to repair a broken snes trigger button? I think super glue would be too brittle so need a glue that probably melts the plastic slightly when bonded for a stronger fix. Im based in the UK.

Heres a pic of the break:



Thanks for any help.

Have you checked the SNES gamepad clones? Maybe they're a perfect fit. Good work with the MD mod, what VGA connecter is that? Never seen one with screws.

[bassquake]

QUOTE

Have you checked the SNES gamepad clones?

I havent. Where could I find them? Ebay? Its a bit risky though without seeing what it looks like inside.

QUOTE

what VGA connecter is that? Never seen one with screws.

Its not a VGA connector, its a D-Range 15-Way Plug, often called DB-15. And the cover for it was bought seperately. Both were bought from Maplin.

DB-15 - http://www.maplin.co...x?ModuleNo=1113 (Doesn't seem to have a pic of it on their page, heres what it looks like http://www.computerc.../1-DB15FSCW.jpg)

DB-15 Hood - http://www.maplin.co...x?ModuleNo=1127

The screws holds down a strip of plastic which clamps the cable down, rather like the mains plugs have, so it wont budge in those intense gaming sessions!  

[event horizon]

It's these ones:

https://www.cliffrac...nfkwrlhphmhewll


Thanks for the info on the connector.

[bassquake]

Okay, well Ill have a look on ebay as thats an american site and Im in the UK. Pity they dont do the multicoloured buttoned pal version like this one though:

(IMG:http://www.arcadiaclub.com/img/emu/console/joypad_snes.JPG)

Ill search around to see if someones opened up a clone too. Might get some clues somewhere.

Thanks

Edit: Looks like this what it looks like:

(IMG:http://www.raphnet.net/electronique/x2wii/convert_snes2gc_step5.jpg)

Ignore the pcb though, thats someone adding usb wii compatibility. The only difference looks like my pad has a metal pole which goes through the lever bit, its a plastic one on that. Everything else looks the same so it might work.

The site is http://www.raphnet.net/electronique/x2wii/index_en.php if anyones interested.

This post has been edited by bassquake: Jun 18 2009, 02:29 PM

[bassquake]

Nevermind. I got 2 faulty ones off ebay cheap.  (IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif)

This post has been edited by bassquake: Jun 18 2009, 03:07 PM

[QQ_ghost]

Any one looking to connect a N64 controller directly can forget it.  The analog is read in the same fashion as a mouse (wheels with holes).  Maybe if the chip were reverse engineered to input a DAC in the circuit?

You can look here for the pinout:  http://sn64.blogspot.com/2007/06/mx1720fc-pinouts.html

Also, here is a description (from http://www.theicstock.com/stock-MX1/MX1720FC.html):

QUOTE

MX1720FC   Pinout:
The ST16C2552 is a dual asynchronous receiver and transmitter with 16 byte transmit and receive FIFOs. Independent programmable baud rate generators are provided to select transmit and receive clock rates from 50Hz to 1.5 MHz for each UART. The on board status registers of the ST16C2552 provide the error conditions, type and status of the transfer operation being performed. Complete MO- DEM control capability and a processor interrupt system that may be software tailored to the users requirements are included. The ST16C2552 provides internal loop-back capability for on board diagnostic testing. Signalling for DMA transfers is done through two pins per channel ( TXRDY*, RXRDY* ). The RXRDY* function is multiplexed on one pin with the OP2* and BAUDOUT functions. CPU can select these functions through the Alternate Function Register. The ST16C2552 is fabricated in an advanced 0.6m CMOS process to achieve low power and high speed requirements.
  Serial Peripheral Interface (SPI) : a kind of serial I/O interface   Interrupt flag available for the read buffer full or transmitter buffer empty.   Programmable baud rates of communication   Three-wire synchronous communication. (shared with IO) PWM

I know that there was a how-to from a college project on the net to get the data from the controller via the connector, and your best bets will be converting the output of one of the following to an xbox output via a PIC.

http://www.goldenshop.com.hk/AI-trad/pc/pc_psxn64usb.htm
http://www.play-asia.com/paOS-13-71-6m-49-en-70-3d9o.html

Of course, this may be the holy grail:  http://www.raphnet.net/electronique/gc_n64_usb/index_en.php

[QQ_ghost]

I just emailed the guy at http://www.raphnet.n...sb/index_en.php and asked him to update the output of the converter to the info found at http://euc.jp/periph...troller.ja.html (which is where the xbox-linux project got their info from).  Awaiting response.

[bassquake]

As promised, here's the PAL snes pcb image for wiring up:



I have a tutorial on how I made the Megadrive and SNES pads for the xbox here.

Comments welcome!

[stephenlefebvre]

I need some help with a controller that I did.

 I have a problem with my Sega controller mod.


When I press two buttons at a time the controller bugs out and will press a combination of buttons that is the same each time. I can't figure out what combination either. This makes playing sega games on my xbox very annoying and unplayable.

There isn't a problem with the VGA connection in the xbox controller. I have tested every button with a volt meter; also, my NES controller works fine.

I noticed that when I press a button on the sega controller all other buttons dip in ACV output when they should stay the same.

I realize that this is a rather confusing problem. And if anyone could offer any insight as to why this happens I would greatly appreciate it.

[stephenlefebvre]

The ACV level will drop to 0 if a button is pressed. So pressing 2 buttons will actually be pressing many buttons as show with the volt meter. I can't find any shorts or crosses and that is why I find this so weird.

[bassquake]

Did you remove the chips and all the tiny rectangular resistors? If not, that would cause the signal to go haywire as currents still pass though.

[event horizon]

Thanks for the tutorials bassquake, I think I'll try the SNES one first, I have the xbox duke controller, the vga cable and just need a pad, are you going to try on a MD 6 button pad too?

[dballs442]

hello. trying this out for the first time. got 2 nes controllers working great! but a few problems with genesis and the fat boy it self:

1. do i need to remove all resistors on genesis controllers? i made a 3 button and it was all messed up but i forgot to remove the resistors in this pic by bassquake: http://img38.imageshack.us/i/megadrivepcbonlymarkedr.jpg/ (thanks a million for this btw). i went back took those off and some of my issues were solved but C is still messed up and i think A and B are the same button. see how all the resistors in that pic on the right are removed but not the left or the bottom ones? maybe he just didn't do it before this pic? the only button messed up on this 3 button controller is C. it thinks im holding down "speed up cpu" (as in makes game speed up) however that's currently mapped to right trigger and i don't have right trigger even soldered on the fat boy pcb yet. i did a 6 button and it was even more messed up. same thing, B speed things up and made neogenesis say "game loaded" ect... i didn't remove any resistors on this board. do i need to remove all on both?

2. where is tp63 on the fat boy? i looked all over it and cant see it anywhere. I'm pretty sure i found tp64 OK. there is sorta an arrow to what i think it is.

3. last i have a genesis controller that is different than both bassquakes and pimpmaul69's and need to know the tp points or at least how to figure out my self what tp points i need to solder what to. here's a pic of the pcb: (IMG:http://i235.photobucket.com/albums/ee226/dballs442/IMAG0321.jpg)
its similar to bassquakes. but different.



p.s. i live in the states and found that same 3 button genesis pcb in a controller as bassquake's "pal MD 3 button". it has a grey start button and says sega genesis on it. guess they used it here too.

This post has been edited by dballs442: Feb 17 2011, 12:17 AM

[dballs442]

ok i solved #1 and #2. turns out i had my "B" button on the wrong TP point on my modded xbox controller. all that went away. and for #2 i just soldered to the middle left trigger solder point on the other side of the controller. still would like to know how i can findout the solder points on the genesis controller though (#3)? i have a multimeter in the mail. should be here soon. ill start to mess around with it see if i cant figure it out. but if someone is will to say how to figure where to solder which wire on a pcb that would help.

here is my only real problem right now. my white button thinks its held down all the time on my fat boy controller. even when a retro isnt hooked up to the db15. the solder looks good and its in the right place. here are some pics:

(IMG:http://i235.photobucket.com/albums/ee226/dballs442/IMAG0328.jpg)
(IMG:http://i235.photobucket.com/albums/ee226/dballs442/IMAG0331.jpg)

its the yellow one on TP72.

im going to make another xbox controller db15 mod here in the next day or two. ill see if it does it again. could it be that i just need to put the controller back together? why wouldn't other buttons have this problem? any thoughts?

[dballs442]

alright just made another fat boy and it works perfect. i even tried desoldering the "white" TP (TP72 yellow) and soldering it back again as best i could. same results. the solder looks perfect. the problem i think must be somewhere else. but where?


(ever get the feeling your talking to yourself lol)