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Author Topic: Truck Problems  (Read 135 times)

hamwbone

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Truck Problems
« Reply #15 on: July 21, 2007, 11:21:00 PM »

you could try the ol' driving in reverse and pulling up on the ebrake a few times to adjust in the shoe position slightly. but, still good to check of you have pad left. the rivets in the leading end of the pad (if they are not bonded) can do some nasty damage to the drum.  also check for the pad for cracks, cracks in a pad can cause a thickness diffrence between the leading and trailing end which could make noise.
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twistedsymphony

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Truck Problems
« Reply #16 on: July 23, 2007, 07:14:00 AM »

After researching disc brakes it's quite a bit more expensive than I anticipated...

I only found 1 company that makes a kit: http://www.allprooff...t...=view&id=33

It looks like it requires some tools that I don't have access to (bearing puller/hydraulic press?) and I'm not even sure if it will work since they claim that the the SEPARATE ebrake conversion kit only works on 4 cylinder models and I have a 6 cylinder model (not exactly sure what the engine has to do with the rear brakes but apparently there is a difference).

... this sucks

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Lemon Crevice

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Truck Problems
« Reply #17 on: July 25, 2007, 07:50:00 PM »

have you taken the drum itself off to look at the springs? i was having some rear drum problems a few months back so i bought a drum brake spring rebuild kit for 20 bucks or so( can't remember exactly) but it did the trick, but be careful it is as confusing as shit so remember how you took it aprart or take a few pictures just incase.

My problem was that the tries wouldn't stop equally the right would lock up completly as the left would just start to work. the problem maybe different but that doesn't mean that the solution can't be the same.
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CKwik240

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Truck Problems
« Reply #18 on: August 01, 2007, 02:30:00 PM »

I would recommend taking the drum off to inspect the internals.  Causes for brake grinding tend to be fairly easy to spot.  A typical cause for a drum is excessive shoe liner wear which allows the rivets to touch the drum.  Another cause I've seen was the liner actually crubling and falling apart allowing the metal to grind on the drum directly.  Most of the liner was found at the bottom of the drum.  The latter was likely the fault of a complete failure of the brake shoes.  I believe it was a wagner pad.  while such a failure could occur with any manufacturer's parts, I tend to stick to OE or quality name brand pads.  In some cases, I use performance pads depending on the application.  

It wouldn't hurt to replace some of the hardware as Lemon Crevice stated.  I would add that you should check to make sure that the cylinders are not sticking either as it is possible that the brake may be engaging moderately with the brake off.  This could cause premature wear and/or excess heat allowing the shoe to wear down to the metal or fail.

Ultimately though, you'll need to locate the root of the problem.  Drums can be reasonably reliable, but need do tend to have more parts that can fail.  Calipers by comparison do tend to be much simpler overall.  
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