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[cpu_junkie3]

Alrighty, My parents own a 1990 Dogde Dynasty, and unfortunately, last week when my mother got up to go to work, the theft light came on and raised heck when we tried to crank it.  I got the horn to quit blowing, but now Im stuck with a suck Chrysler. Not done, with the story.  I went and took that alarm off, and got another from the same year model car, and stuck it in.  Doesn't work. Trips the alarm on that one too.  None the less, Im in a jam because I need a job, and this car needs to run so I quit bumming my mom a ride.  It still will not crank.

Well this just happens to be a chip inside the small box.  If I had a digital camer, I would upload pics, and highlight the parts of the chip that could be bypassed via desoldering/soldering, IF thats even possible.  I also asked the manufacturer of the chip NEC for info on it.

The local dealership charges 75$ /hr , and that doesn't include the regular service charge upfront, and they have a reputation for milking a job(for all of those who are not rednecks/hicks, that means they take their time) and If you figure a few hours, My parents are actually cheaper getting a 1988 Dynasty that doesn't have that computer crap on it.  

Oh and if anyone asks, just press the panic button to turn it off, Well it didn't come with the car when we bought it.

Thank you.

[StrictPuppet]

Close all the doors, then lock fully both front doors with the key, then fully unlock drivers door with the key.  Those early chryslers anti-theft devices comonly act up due to poor contacts in the drivers lock cylinder. If this does not cure your problem, I can pull up a wiring diagram and tell you which wire to ground.  Fixed a ton of these back in the day, but luckily I dont see them too much anymore. hahahah  Problem is never with the antitheft module itself, but either the door switches as I have mentioned or the SMEC(computer) located behind the battery. If cycling the key in the door lock fixes it, you can permanently disable the system by unplugging the antitheft module, but the computer must have received a "pass" first, so do it while the engine is running.  Good luck.

[StrictPuppet]

QUOTE

GENERAL INFORMATION
This passive system is designed to protect against whole vehicle theft. The system monitors vehicle doors, hood, trunk key cylinder, and ignition action for unauthorized operation. The alarm activates by sounding the horn, flashing the park and tail lamps, and providing an engine kill feature.

Passive arming occurs upon normal vehicle exit (open door, lock with power locks, close door). The "SET" lamp in the panel will flash for 15 seconds, indicating that arming is in progress. If no monitored systems are activated during this period, the system will arm. If the hood or trunk key cylinder switches are not seen by the system, the "SET" lamp will remain steadily lit during the arming process, although the system will still arm.

Passive disarming occurs upon normal vehicle entry (unlocking either door with the key). This disarming will also halt the alarm once it has been activated.

Upon initial installation (connection to battery), the Vehicle Theft Security System enters it power up alarm mode which flashes the park and tail lamps and prevents the engine from running. To exit this mode, the system must be disarmed as mentioned above.

A tamper alert exists to notify the driver that the alarm had been activated, and has since timed-out (alarmed for more than 18 minutes).

This alert consists of 3 horn pulses when the vehicle is disarmed.

The alarm system will not arm if the doors are manually locked, providing a manual override of the alarm.

SYSTEM SELF-TESTS
A diagnostics mode is available in the system to verify operation of all monitored switches or circuits. To enter diagnostics, cycle the ignition key to the accessory position 3 times, leaving the key in this position.

Upon entering diagnostics, the park and tail lamps will begin flashing to verify their operation. In addition, the horn will sound twice to indicate that the trunk key cylinder is in its proper position. Returning the ignition to the OFF position will stop the lamps from flashing while keeping the system in diagnostics.

While in diagnostics mode, a horn pulse should occur at each of the following events indicating proper operation:



Beginning with all doors closed, open then close each door. The horn will sound when the door ajar switch closes, and then again when the switch opens. There must be a 1 second delay between closing and opening the switch.
Open, then close the hood. The horn will sound when the hood is opened, and again when it is closed.
Activate the power door locks in both the "lock" and "unlock" directions. The horn will sound after each activation.
Rotate the key in each of the door lock cylinders to the unlock position. The horn will sound as the switch closes, and again when it opens. There must be a 1 second delay between changing switch states, or the horn will not sound.
Cycle the key to the ignition RUN position. A single horn pulse will indicate proper operation of the ignition input. This will also take the module out of the diagnostics mode. For any of these tests, if the switch does not remain open or closed for at least 1 second, the horn will only sound once. The lack of a horn pulse, during any operation, indicates a switch failure, the lack of that input to the Vehicle Theft Security System module, or a failure internal to the module. Check for continuity at the switch, if this is good, check for an open or shorted wire between the switch and alarm module. Also, check if the SBEC has been replaced recently. Vehicle Theft Security System will not function until 20 engine cranks.

Here is a wiring diagram as well....



Basically you can also ground the darkgreen/orange wire @ pin #8 of the antitheft module, and the lightgreen/orange wire @ pin #15.  While you are at it you can also eliminate the trunk switch by grounding the violet/yellow wire @ pin #17.  This should give you a good working understanding of the system and you should be able to figure it out from there.