Topic: Dead Xbox Not Chipped (ver 1.0) (Read 70 times)

mlwood37 · « **on:** November 10, 2005, 07:14:00 PM »

Hi there i have a 1.0 xbox that will not boot.

I have tested the power supply in a second 1.0 xbox and it is found to be working. The xbox has NOT been modded in any form. The xbox shows no sign of life and seems to be completly dead. Is there any fault finding tuts on any info where to look on this main bord and find its fault so that i can attempts to fix this problem.

Code-Runner · « **Reply #1 on:** November 10, 2005, 07:22:00 PM »

The only think I can suggest is to start with the P/E switch and trace through the board.

mlwood37 · « **Reply #2 on:** November 10, 2005, 07:26:00 PM »

yes thks just found the diagrams for this. Thks alot. ill let you know how it goes.

mlwood37 · « **Reply #3 on:** November 10, 2005, 07:46:00 PM »

oky checked all the 10k ris and they are all reading between 9.51 and 10.01. Checked all the traces and they all seem to be fine and there is no cross over.

Any other idears.

Code-Runner · « **Reply #4 on:** November 10, 2005, 08:29:00 PM »

Well, this is a long shot since I have not seen any fuses go on the xbox motherboard like the PS2 mobos but I would just do a continuity check on them anyway, see also if the aerogel is functioning and if current is going to it. You can also have a damaged cap somewhere as well.

PimpleX · « **Reply #5 on:** November 11, 2005, 08:51:00 AM »

It's probably your PIC16LC chip (the long one above your eeprom). It monitors the eject / on / off buttons and reacts accordingly...

There was a nice how to test it on xboxrepairguide.com I found, but they seem to have taken it down now, to incentivise you to buy their guide I guess. I followed it and replaced my PIC16LC and fixed a stone dead v1.0 a few weeks back.

Damn shame else i'd have linked to it here for you, ...if you follow your tracks from the power button header on the motherboard (test the button 1st) then it will come out on a pin on the PIC16LC, if the trace itself is all good to the PIC16LC then it's the chip itself that's duff (there was a voltage test on a certain pin to verify, but obviously i can't remember which one it is!)

It's not hard to remove and replace if you have some solder wick some flux and a small tip on your iron.

Cheers,

PimpleX

mlwood37 · « **Reply #6 on:** November 11, 2005, 10:42:00 AM »

I checked the Traces last night all seems fine ill need to wait till i get another broken 1.0 xbox before i can replace the chips. I have 12 xboxs now and there are just two i cannot fix. lol this one is the only one that is dead as a doe doe.

I have the xbox repair guide from that site with no info about testing out that chip (got it from somewere) not going to pay for some thing like that when we have places like XS that have more info on them and TBH half there pics and info in the repair guide are stolen from here any way.

PimpleX · « **Reply #7 on:** November 11, 2005, 03:06:00 PM »

From my reading up on it at the time...AFAIK the PIC16LC is the same on all v1.0 - v1.5 mobos .....there isn't any on v1.6s as it was part of the multifunction xyclops chip to economise...

I'll have a shed load of boards next week so can probably send you a working one for a small fee if you don't have any spare

Cheers,

PimpleX

IAmCanadian · « **Reply #8 on:** November 11, 2005, 04:47:00 PM »

Check under the power supply for burnt solder spots.... this is a big issue with 1.0 xbox's

QUOTE

I have the xbox repair guide from that site with no info about testing out that chip (got it from somewere) not going to pay for some thing like that when we have places like XS that have more info on them and TBH half there pics and info in the repair guide are stolen from here any way.

\

We do not support piracy in ANY form

This post has been edited by IAmCanadian: Nov 12 2005, 12:48 AM

Code-Runner · « **Reply #9 on:** November 11, 2005, 05:06:00 PM »

Wow,

In all my time modding I have never had to change a PIC16LC off a xbox board, not like the BA's off the PS2s.

I have one off a board with a dead MCPX (Actually a few but I never thought there would be much need for the xbox) Just PM me and I will send it out to you if you think you need it.

It gets current even if the board is unplugged so I would say the best way to test it is to plug in the board and let it sit for a few seconds, unplug the power, disconnect the PSU from the mobo and test the PIC. Pin #1 is the one beside the dimple on the chip and they are counted across so if you are looking at the chip from the front of the xbox then it would be as so;

CODE

   ___________
   01 ~|O |~02 (0.006)
   (0.005) 03 ~| |~04 (0.006)
   (0.005) 05 ~| |~06 (0.006)
   07 ~| |~08 (0.006)
   09 ~| |~10
   11 ~| |~12 (0.003)
   13 ~| |~14
   15 ~| |~16 (0.002)
   (G) 17 ~| |~18
   (0.005) 19 ~| |~20
   (0.002) 21 ~| |~22
   23 ~| |~24
   25 ~| |~26
   27 ~|____________|~28

Use your multimeter and set it to 2 DCV, now place the ground probe (Black) (Mine are about the size of a pin tip at the end) on pin 17. With the like probe (Red) you should get the readings indicated above. If there is no reading posted then assume it is zero (0).

This should let you know if the board and PIC is working properly. For a P/E continuity trace then I would recommend just going to pablot's site here.

NOTE;
Depending on your probes and quality of MM you can see a slight different reading.

Also just a reminder not to mention anything that can be conscewed as piracy.

QUOTE(PimpleX @ Nov 11 2005, 08:22 AM)

It's probably your PIC16LC chip (the long one above your eeprom). It monitors the eject / on / off buttons and reacts accordingly...

There was a nice how to test it on xboxrepairguide.com I found, but they seem to have taken it down now, to incentivise you to buy their guide I guess. I followed it and replaced my PIC16LC and fixed a stone dead v1.0 a few weeks back.

Damn shame else i'd have linked to it here for you, ...if you follow your tracks from the power button header on the motherboard (test the button 1st) then it will come out on a pin on the PIC16LC, if the trace itself is all good to the PIC16LC then it's the chip itself that's duff (there was a voltage test on a certain pin to verify, but obviously i can't remember which one it is!)

It's not hard to remove and replace if you have some solder wick some flux and a small tip on your iron.

Cheers,

PimpleX

This post has been edited by Code-Runner: Nov 12 2005, 01:11 AM

Code-Runner · « **Reply #10 on:** November 12, 2005, 01:57:00 AM »

Sorry, I don't know what I was thinking when I did the chip pin numbers. I will just give your the pins on the chip, it should have been like this;

CODE

Author Topic: Dead Xbox Not Chipped (ver 1.0) (Read 70 times)