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[ferrari_rulz_02]

QUOTE(G0t M4xx 21 @ Nov 28 2005, 12:44 PM)

You know ive got too many xbox parts if i cant remember if i tsop'ed a motherboard or not

well arnt you a lucky bugger then

[G0t M4xx 21]

acutally i dont have that many I jsut ahd a brain fart that day with the tsop.

I have 3 working complete xboxes, 5 dead motherboards, a gazillion stock unlocked hdd's, 5 or 6 working sammy dvd drives, and some cases, fans, PSU's and random stuff like that.

I'm looking to start an Ebay store so if anybody needs anything LMK

Also if anybody needs a specific part for a mobo (except ram, i hog those for myself), I have dead 1.0, 1.1, 1.4, and soon 1.6 boards to pull parts off of. Resistors and caps and regulators to video encoders, ethernet controller, etc.

[ferrari_rulz_02]

QUOTE(G0t M4xx 21 @ Nov 29 2005, 09:38 AM)

Also if anybody needs a specific part for a mobo (except ram, i hog those for myself), I have dead 1.0, 1.1, 1.4, and soon 1.6 boards to pull parts off of. Resistors and caps and regulators to video encoders, ethernet controller, etc.

cool, ill keep that in mind thanks.

btw, nice to see you stucky my quote in your sig  

cheers

[PimpleX]

Are bc635s too feeble for the job you think as I'm not getting any luck using them so far... Or should I get some bc639s instead RS don't stock the 637s)

Cheers,

PimpleX

[hedbanger]

i think any npn general purpose trannie will do as long as it can take more than 200mA. the bc 637 can handle up to 1A, so that should be enough.

[PimpleX]

OK thanks, you sure the max rated volts is sufficient as the original dual trannie is rated more like the bc637?, .....I'll try some more though,

I did a 1.6 but I think it has a bad cap by the xyclops as well so no joy, I did a 1.4 and a 1.0 again no joy on either.  I did manage to fix a FRAO v1.0 as well but that was because the LPC pin 5 to Q7R1 link was broken, so I ran a bypass and away it went LOL...

Anyway, only another 15 to go LOL If the next 5 are all the same then I'll get some bc639s and try them.

I'm doing this BTW (just in case i's wrong):

pin 1 Emitter Q2 = ground emitter
pin 2 + 3 Base Q2 = base bc635 no2 / Collector Q1 = collector bc635 no 1
pin 4 Emitter Q1 = ground emitter
pin 5 Bass Q1 = bass bc635 no 1
pin 6 Collector Q2 = collector bc635 no 2

Cheers,

PimpleX

[hedbanger]

thats how i wired it, too. it will only work if the MA is the cause of the problem, though. on my mobo someone else already fuxored around, and must´ve burnt it. the person somehow even removed the resistor above pin 2, which i had to replace from another mobo. was just a pain in the ass.
good luck!

[ferrari_rulz_02]

QUOTE(hedbanger @ Dec 2 2005, 06:40 PM)

on my mobo someone else already fuxored around, and must´ve burnt it. the person somehow even removed the resistor above pin 2, which i had to replace from another mobo.

well they must have had fun with that baord.

trying a trannie that can handle 1a would be a good way to see if it is the current that is being pulled through there that is causing the problem.

but has anyoen stuck a mutipmeter in there and checked how much current is actually being drawn through that joint?

[unspun01]

Hi there folks.  New guy here.  I read through most of the posts on this topic and I have the same problem as many others, FRAO.  let me tell you how I got mine.

I bought a broken xbox on eBay (my first one ever, although I'm quite familiar with some of the technical aspects of the xbox).  When it arrived, I immediately turned it on to see what was wrong with it.  I got an Error 07 - HDD timeout.  This was accompanied with red and green flashes from the eject button.  The HDD made some clicking sounds and indicated it was probably bad.

I also thought this might be a problem from a former mod attempt (the case had been opened) and the previous owner told me nothing about this xbox.  So I proceeded to open the xbox myself.  I believed my xbox to be a v1.0 motherboard in a v1.6 case since the date was 2004-07-31 but the motherboard had a "Connexant" chip with a fan on some other heat sink chip and kernel 4034.

Anyway, believing this to be a former mod attempt, I looked for broken traces and found none.  There was a set of header pins installed on the LPC, but I don't know if it was original or installed afterward - the install looked very good if it was aftermarket.  I thought maybe there was a broken trace below the header pin thing that maybe I couldn't see, so I carefully desoldered the header pins and looked below it.  no broken traces.  Also, I might add, NO SOLDER SPLASHES anywhere.

While things were apart, I also took the DVD rom apart and cleaned it up.  I put the whole system back together only to get the 1-2-3 attempt FRAO pattern that your guys described so well.  And, you guessed it, NO VIDEO.

now what did I do?  I have no idea.  because now it will not do the xbox blob thing when you turn it on.  With the HDD and DVD removed it still does the same thing - FRAO.  After reading some of the posts, I tried this:  with power off, I held a jumper wire between pin 15 (3.3V) and pin 5 (Rst) and then pressed the power button.  behold, the xbox still doesn't do a damn thing (NO VIDEO), but the pattern now flashed red and green (FRAG).  This leads me to believe that the q7r1 dual npn transistor chip is blown, since jumpering the pins gets it to 1-2-3-FRAG.

By the way, a few days later I received my 2nd xbox in the mail (a working one v1.0 kernel 4034, so basically the exact same xbox but in working order)  My NVIDIA chip on the working xbox gets hot outputting video to the tv but the broken xbox is cool.  Maybe the NVIDIA is not getting any power?

Sorry for the long post,
Just thought I'd share my story.  Let me know what you think

unspun01

[G0t M4xx 21]

Ah I got another 1.6 mobo in here the other day, some broken ones i bought off ebay.

I bought 2 broekn 1.6 boards, 2 unlocked hdd's, and a borken 1.6 PSU for $20 + $10 ship.

First 1.6 mobo: won't power up. Replace 2T transistor near Xyclops. Works! yay.
2nd 1.6 mobo: totally screwed up. Broken traces everywhere. I reconnected all the lifted pads (3 of the lads, and lframe), still frag.

I fnally discovered that LPC pin 5 was disconnected from Q7R1. Odd, the board Fragged, not FRAO, but whatever, I reconnected it.

What do you know? it works! So I got two perfectly good 1.6 mobos (one 1.6a and one 1.6b) and a PSU (I just had to repalce an IC on the supply) for 30 bucks.

So a busted trace from Q7R1 to the LPC can also cause a frag, not just frao.

Also, somebody was saying about how they removed the 100ohm pullup resistor for LRST on the 1.6? They didn't. It's just in a slightly different location, on the other side of Q7R1. The resistor is labeled R7R8 and it is much smaller.

Also I haven't been able to test this, but increasing the value of this pullup resistor should in theory reduce the current flow through Q7R1 when this tranny tries to pull LRST low. 100 ohms seems very low for a pullup resistor (considering the pullups for the Lad lines are 10K)

[grifface]

probably a stupid question and the wrong place for it .. but now that i've determined i don't have the ability to replace the Q7r1 .. does anybody know that i can get a new pin header and LPC rebuild board to go along with the new mobo im gonna have to buy instead of purchasing an entire new chip assembly.. i soldered my rebuild to the pinheader pretty good and in the process of desoldering the lpc rebuild i fucked them both up     alas, i never thought when i started this fiasco i would need to do it again to another version mobo so i junked the stuff i wasn't gonna use (dumb)  anyhow.. im gonna get another motherboard i just wonder if i have to buy a brand new chip assembly also ?

[fisix]

i'm left wondering if the transistor burning out is a result of time (weak part) or if it is a result of getting too much heat into it when soldering pins into the LPC.

how many of you had bad transistors (board came back to life when it was exchanged) and also has solder work done on the board?

[unspun01]

I FOUND A SOLUTION TO THE RED/ORANGE FRAO PROBLEM!!!!!!!!!!

On Dec 7th I posted how I thought I caused my version 1.0 motherboard to FRAO.

To sum up, I had no audio and no video and the xbox would attempt to boot 3 times before finally resorting to FRAO........  Frustrating... I know.

Well, here is a solution for some of you with the same problem to try at home.

After countless hours scritinizing the motherboard with a magnifying glass, I noticed something very interesting on the RAM chip closest to the LPC........VERY TINY GAPS BETWEEN THE PINS ON MY RAM CHIP AND THE SOLDER PADS!!!!!!!  I took my soldering iron and touched up every pin on that damn chip, and what do you know........... My motherboard booted up just fine.  the xbox runs without any problems now..... well, at least for the few hours that I've run it so far.   I'll update again after a more lengthly burn in test.....

This may be a problem for all of the RAM chips.  If you know how to solder pretty good, I recommend touching up any RAM chip pin that is a suspected "cold solder joint"

Good Luck.  I Hope to see some replies here from some of you, and whether this worked for you or not.

Later.

[Titsca]

QUOTE(G0t M4xx 21 @ Dec 11 2005, 01:20 PM)

Ah I got another 1.6 mobo in here the other day, some broken ones i bought off ebay.

I bought 2 broekn 1.6 boards, 2 unlocked hdd's, and a borken 1.6 PSU for $20 + $10 ship.

First 1.6 mobo: won't power up. Replace 2T transistor near Xyclops. Works! yay.
2nd 1.6 mobo: totally screwed up. Broken traces everywhere. I reconnected all the lifted pads (3 of the lads, and lframe), still frag.

I fnally discovered that LPC pin 5 was disconnected from Q7R1. Odd, the board Fragged, not FRAO, but whatever, I reconnected it.

What do you know? it works! So I got two perfectly good 1.6 mobos (one 1.6a and one 1.6b) and a PSU (I just had to repalce an IC on the supply) for 30 bucks.

So a busted trace from Q7R1 to the LPC can also cause a frag, not just frao.

Also, somebody was saying about how they removed the 100ohm pullup resistor for LRST on the 1.6? They didn't. It's just in a slightly different location, on the other side of Q7R1. The resistor is labeled R7R8 and it is much smaller.

Also I haven't been able to test this, but increasing the value of this pullup resistor should in theory reduce the current flow through Q7R1 when this tranny tries to pull LRST low. 100 ohms seems very low for a pullup resistor (considering the pullups for the Lad lines are 10K)

Anyone have a picture of location of this Q7R1 resistor? In this case i have to replace it? How to fix this issue? I think my xbox have this problem....

[sga_MODZ]

Trty Flipping around the IDE Cables on the hard Drive, DVD Drive, and the Motherboard. Make sure you try all combos or go to the X-S Open XBox Tutorial and Look at the Pic's am plug in your cables according to that.