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[RDC]

The aluminum foil isn't helping, and if you've glued it onto the rubber contact pad you'll most likely need a new one now.

Use a Q-tip and rubbing alcohol and clean the black contacts on the board and the ones on the rubber pad, which 99% of the time is all that's ever needed.

[RDC]

I need to know which of the, currently 6, versions of controller it is.

[RDC]

Was anything done to this controller? mods? dropped?something spilled on it?

The CG are a Common Ground setup, so the Start button just goes to Ground to activate, so if the trace is good from the Start button to pin 1 of the MCU, then the MCU is bad.

Give me about 20 minutes here to update the pics in the CG2 thread, as they're not complete and don't have that Start button line traced all the way out. It goes all the way around the board to make a 10mm trip, so it might be broken somewhere along that run or have a bad Via causing it.

[RDC]

Pics updated.

http://forums.xbox-s...howtopic=693579

[RDC]

Nope.

[RDC]

C80 isn't an inline component that could go bad and cause the ST line to become open. It's a decoupling capacitor, worst case there it would short and cause ST to be pressed all the time.

Soldering on the lead of the MCU should be a last resort, unless you're more than comfortable doing that kind of work.

There are several Vias between SW6 and pin 1 on that ST trace, and I'd check them all to see where it's dying at. I'd also try and keep the jumper wire on one side of the board or the other, versus soldering to one side and having to run it all the way around to the other.

[RDC]

It's copper, not gold, and how to prep and solder to a Via is in the Tutorials section in the Trace repair thread. If that works, there's no real point in doing it over again, the carbon coating has already been removed from the pad.