Topic: Eject And Sync Button Traces (Read 136 times)

wilgo45 · « **on:** December 18, 2012, 01:46:00 PM »

It's usually a bad idea to use 'Tricks' that people have posted to YouTube.

There is some good advice at YouTube - but you have to look for expertise and professionalism.

Ovens, Freezers, Towels .... no, not good

You were basically made a victim by following thru on very bad techniques

Napoleonesco · « **Reply #1 on:** December 18, 2012, 02:45:00 PM »

QUOTE(wilgo45 @ Dec 18 2012, 03:46 PM)

It's usually a bad idea to use 'Tricks' that people have posted to YouTube.

There is some good advice at YouTube - but you have to look for expertise and professionalism.

Ovens, Freezers, Towels .... no, not good

You were basically made a victim by following thru on very bad techniques

Maybe not a good idea but it has worked for me quite a few times. This time I failed to insulate properly and this was the result. Does anyone have any knowledge that could help?

Bandit5317 · « **Reply #2 on:** December 19, 2012, 01:46:00 PM »

Why don't you just follow the traces back to the nearest solder point? If you don't find another solder point, then you can always just scrape a bit of the insulation off of the traces and solder your wire to them.

iateshaggy · « **Reply #3 on:** December 19, 2012, 07:13:00 PM »

its honestly irrelevant, u are wasting time trying to get a broken xenon to work.

PimpleX · « **Reply #4 on:** December 21, 2012, 11:17:00 AM »

You needs a multimeter to test for continuity, you can work it out yourself quite easily then.

Not sure about the xenon comment, I've had xenons run happily for a year or more after a simple 200c dry reflow.

Author Topic: Eject And Sync Button Traces (Read 136 times)