Topic: Best Technique To Remove R6t3. (Read 120 times)

keine · « **on:** November 23, 2009, 12:05:00 PM »

What is the best way to remove R6T3? What kind of technique? I only have access to a soldering iron.

Secondly....I was thinking about getting a Cygnos 360 v2, but am worried about the quick solder installation. I've read that quick solder is very hard to remove. Through experience, removing something with multiple solder connection with only two hands and one soldering iron usually ends in lifted components and traces (for me). I thought that using a braid on each quick solder point individually might work, but I don't know. The tiny pads being quick soldered to, might be destroyed or disappear after use of a braid. I don't know.

Could I wire the points individually? How much would a hot air station run to remove it? Thoughts?

Thanks.

MadMaxGR · « **Reply #1 on:** November 24, 2009, 05:02:00 AM »

The only way to desolder (without burning anything) any industrial solder, is as follows:

1. pre-heat your soldering iron well
2. use some fresh solder on the industrial soldered component's legs
3. use flux on the soldering
4. desolder on highest level with your soldering iron and pulling the component at the same time. If you find it hard to keep desoldering, re-apply the step 2-3.

i hope I helped.

keine · « **Reply #2 on:** December 07, 2009, 09:26:00 PM »

I don't follow completely. If I heat one end of the resistor, that doesn't mean the other end is being heated and detach, does it?

Or will it?

Thought I might need hot air to remove it....
A little more help, I suppose.

MadMaxGR · « **Reply #3 on:** December 08, 2009, 01:41:00 AM »

QUOTE(keine @ Dec 8 2009, 06:26 AM)

I don't follow completely. If I heat one end of the resistor, that doesn't mean the other end is being heated and detach, does it?

Or will it?

Thought I might need hot air to remove it....
A little more help, I suppose.

Not necessarily, you must desolder one by one the legs. take your time when you do it. Hot air is risky for delicate jobs like this, be carefull.

Odb718 · « **Reply #4 on:** December 09, 2009, 03:59:00 AM »

I just did mine. I used a crappy radioshack soldering iron, so I'm positive any one could be used.

Just heat the right side of it a little, r6t3, and then heat and push the left side to the right. (away from that group) Mine lifted off the board perfect.

keine · « **Reply #5 on:** December 12, 2009, 12:14:00 AM »

Thanks guys, I really appreciate it. I'm going to go attempt it right now.

I don't 100% follow you odb718.

Did you heat the right side a little bit, hop over to the left side while the right side was still hot, and then push the resistor off to the right? This is how I understand you. Accoreding to the high res image on Free60, pushing off to the right is indeed away from the cluster of other components.

Sounds like it would work, especially if the heat will flow through the resistor, which I have a feeling it would too.

Thanks everyone for the FanTASTIC input.

under420dog · « **Reply #6 on:** December 12, 2009, 12:54:00 AM »

yep and pray you don't get confused and that console tries to update the nand with that off... ever see what a unrecoverable error is........E(80) forever.....well in most cases

keine · « **Reply #7 on:** December 12, 2009, 04:09:00 AM »

I tried the blog of solder, but I couldn't draw the solder with the resister in it away from the board.

In the end, I just pushed from left to right, until the resistor came away on my iron. I then went pack with a soldering braid and cleaned up. In actuality it worked out quite nicely.

Martinchris23 · « **Reply #8 on:** December 12, 2009, 04:53:00 AM »

1. Place the iron so it lays along the side of the resistor.
2. Apply solder to flood the resistor completely.
3. Wipe the iron across the resistor - it should just come away provided you flooded it with solder.

As for E80, I've just made a jumper so if I need to re-enable the standard NAND, I just short the jumper to boot it. Don't bother trying to resolder the SMD for this purpose, just pick up a small 10k resistor which will do the job as well (if not better as it's much sturdier).

Martinchris23 · « **Reply #9 on:** December 22, 2009, 03:28:00 AM »

QUOTE(pipeme @ Dec 22 2009, 10:26 AM)

Can you take any pics of your setup. I'd like to see what this looks like.

I'll knock something together

Antman1 · « **Reply #10 on:** December 22, 2009, 05:05:00 AM »

I thought that if you accidentally update with the resistor gone you can reflash your nand back from your backup and it'll be fine because now efuses get blown anymore. Is this true?

If you reenable the R6T3 it will blow the efuses and what would be the point?

Martinchris23 · « **Reply #11 on:** December 22, 2009, 06:26:00 AM »

QUOTE(Antman1 @ Dec 22 2009, 12:05 PM)

I thought that if you accidentally update with the resistor gone you can reflash your nand back from your backup and it'll be fine because now efuses get blown anymore. Is this true?

If you reenable the R6T3 it will blow the efuses and what would be the point?

If you've got a Cygnos installed, it means you can reflash your original dump back (either to the main NAND or the one on the Cygnos) and boot back into it should you have a reason to. My setup is a test-box so can change configuration at any given point. Under normal circumstances you wouldn't need to do this.

bissmo · « **Reply #12 on:** January 01, 2010, 08:57:00 AM »

Should I remove the resistor before I dump my NAND and do the jtag or wait till I've done The jtag hack also do you have to put it back in before you update yer hacked dash

Thanks

Author Topic: Best Technique To Remove R6t3. (Read 120 times)