Topic: Team Hybrid's Ultimate X-clamp Fix (Read 1418 times)

strife18 · « **Reply #60 on:** December 23, 2008, 04:06:00 PM »

Hey guys,
First of all thanks to everyone for all their hard work towards these fixes.
I think that for most boxes that are just having problems this will be a very nice improvement in extending the lifespan for fixes.
The real test will be whether this will help the boxes that the other methods have not quite fixed. aka my box.
I have done a few of the other methods but has never fixed for longer than a week or so. I am in the middle of the hybrid fix right now. About at the point where i have to start putting in the xclamps, foam, and mobo. So it shouldn't be too long to see what this will do. Cross your fingers for me and I will update you with results.
Thanks again

nastyn8 · « **Reply #61 on:** December 23, 2008, 05:10:00 PM »

I did this mod two days ago on an E74 console and got the three red lights, but I left out the step where you put washers on the mem units. I noticed that without them the board will flex(or maybe it was warped a little bit). I added the washers and now all four corners are flush on the chassis. I played COD4 last night for 6 hours and today for about 2 hours and it is still working no prob. Got the console from a friend for $20

.

Also I work at a hardware store and I used the insulation pads you use behind switch plates instead of the craft foam. Its almost the same thing just a little less give to it than the foam.

strife18 · « **Reply #62 on:** December 23, 2008, 07:56:00 PM »

Hello again,
So I tried this new technique. I had previously modded my chassis when doing previous fixes so i have had to change the number of washers here and there but I am still getting 3Rod secondary code 0102. I do have a few questions though.Im using 2mm craft foam and it seems like there is a fair amount of pressure on the board. To the point where I think the board may be bending when I screw them in. It may not though if the foam gives a bit but im not sure it is doing it enough. How much higher does this foam push your mobo?
I've also tried various tightnesses of the screws but no change in light status.
I guess one main difference from my chassis compared to others is that the holes for the screws are much bigger so the heads actually go through and are not secured to the chassis.
Any ideas or suggestions for me to try?

ps. previous to this I have fixed this box with wilhelms improved method + heatgunning (no damage at all), but any time i have done a fix it only lasted a few days to a week max

nastyn8 · « **Reply #63 on:** December 23, 2008, 08:12:00 PM »

QUOTE(strife18 @ Dec 23 2008, 09:32 PM)

I guess one main difference from my chassis compared to others is that the holes for the screws are much bigger so the heads actually go through and are not secured to the chassis.
Any ideas or suggestions for me to try?

ps. previous to this I have fixed this box with wilhelms improved method + heatgunning (no damage at all), but any time i have done a fix it only lasted a few days to a week max

the foam will make it flex if your holes are to big and the heads go through. It does need to be secured to the chassis. With the heads on the chassis it will pull the mobo and heatsinks to the correct space without flexing...... I wish I had a pic to illustrate.

IPB Image

Kinda rough but should illustrate my point.

humboldt111502 · « **Reply #64 on:** December 23, 2008, 11:16:00 PM »

QUOTE(strife18 @ Dec 24 2008, 04:32 AM)

Hello again,
So I tried this new technique. I had previously modded my chassis when doing previous fixes so i have had to change the number of washers here and there but I am still getting 3Rod secondary code 0102. I do have a few questions though.Im using 2mm craft foam and it seems like there is a fair amount of pressure on the board. To the point where I think the board may be bending when I screw them in. It may not though if the foam gives a bit but im not sure it is doing it enough. How much higher does this foam push your mobo?
I've also tried various tightnesses of the screws but no change in light status.
I guess one main difference from my chassis compared to others is that the holes for the screws are much bigger so the heads actually go through and are not secured to the chassis.
Any ideas or suggestions for me to try?

ps. previous to this I have fixed this box with wilhelms improved method + heatgunning (no damage at all), but any time i have done a fix it only lasted a few days to a week max

Actually I think it could still work if you drilled out the big holes like in wilhelms older tutorial. I do prefer securing to the chassis tho since it acts as more reinforcement and aides in cooling as well. I have an elite here that I will try this on that had been previously fixed using wilhelms older way. Should still use 2 washers on top of the motherboard, and 3 washers with the modded xclamps on the bottom. it should more or less look like the pic below.....

IPB Image

QUOTE(nastyn8 @ Dec 24 2008, 04:48 AM)

the foam will make it flex if your holes are to big and the heads go through. It does need to be secured to the chassis. With the heads on the chassis it will pull the mobo and heatsinks to the correct space without flexing...... I wish I had a pic to illustrate.

IPB Image

Kinda rough but should illustrate my point.

Im pretty sure he had the big holes drilled out in the chassis like in "Wilhelm's improved Xclamp fix" tutorial. If they just set the board in there without the holes drilled out, it would flex like in your pic, but it looks like ur pic might have forgot the modded xclamp part. Another tip is to always make sure you screw down the heatsink screws first before the outer screws. This is so the pads can compress a bit and the board has a chance to level out with the edge before putting in the outer screws.

strife18 · « **Reply #65 on:** December 24, 2008, 01:44:00 PM »

Alright well I'll go into a bit more detail of what I did.
I do have the xclamps in there,So the screws do attach to something underneath the foam, however when you being to tighten the xclamps bend up a bit allowing there to be some give. This makes it so if the board moves or the heatsink moves space may be created between the die and the heatsink (when I tested it I made sure that there wasn't).
Also you have to add more washers in the very first part when installing the screws (especially for GPU) due to 16mm screws and less space taken up from the xclamps being higher up than the chassis. The rest of the washers are the same like you said.
I dunno, the biggest flaw I think in this is that it is not secure like attaching to the chassis.
But even before my box would not fix for longer than a few days where the same fixes were fixing others for months. I think my box may be cursed, or maybe just me.

Thanks for your help

Dartht33bagg3r · « **Reply #66 on:** December 24, 2008, 02:29:00 PM »

What I wonder is wont the foam melt with all that heat above it. Other than that this tut looks good, just worried the foam will burn my xbox to the ground.

humboldt111502 · « **Reply #67 on:** December 24, 2008, 02:56:00 PM »

QUOTE(Dartht33bagg3r @ Dec 24 2008, 11:05 PM)

What I wonder is wont the foam melt with all that heat above it. Other than that this tut looks good, just worried the foam will burn my xbox to the ground.

No it wont burn to the ground, if your worried you can cover the foam in electrical tape. Most of the heat goes up to the heatsinks and the foam should really just be warm not anywhere hot enough to melt it. Its more expensive, but u can go try to find some thermal pads that are 4mm thick that are able to compress to 3mm. You will probably have to buy a whole sheet of the material though which would be even more uneconomical.

Dartht33bagg3r · « **Reply #68 on:** December 24, 2008, 03:04:00 PM »

Once the snow melts I'm going to go get some foam and try this out.

humboldt111502 · « **Reply #69 on:** December 24, 2008, 03:26:00 PM »

QUOTE(strife18 @ Dec 24 2008, 10:20 PM)

Alright well I'll go into a bit more detail of what I did.
I do have the xclamps in there,So the screws do attach to something underneath the foam, however when you being to tighten the xclamps bend up a bit allowing there to be some give. This makes it so if the board moves or the heatsink moves space may be created between the die and the heatsink (when I tested it I made sure that there wasn't).
Also you have to add more washers in the very first part when installing the screws (especially for GPU) due to 16mm screws and less space taken up from the xclamps being higher up than the chassis. The rest of the washers are the same like you said.
I dunno, the biggest flaw I think in this is that it is not secure like attaching to the chassis.
But even before my box would not fix for longer than a few days where the same fixes were fixing others for months. I think my box may be cursed, or maybe just me.

Thanks for your help

hmm yeah your right about the gpu screws would be too long, but it would be best to keep the setup how it is and just use shorter screws like 12mm or so. Also you said somethin bout the xclamps bending. This shouldnt really happen if u use shorter screws and 3 washers under the board. Ill mess around with it and see what I come up with for all those who already did the older Wilhelm fix.

humboldt111502 · « **Reply #70 on:** December 24, 2008, 05:43:00 PM »

Wilhelm just wanted me to tell everyone to have a "Super awesome MERRY CHRISTMAS

, with loads of presents and a nice time"

bakelo · « **Reply #71 on:** December 25, 2008, 02:21:00 AM »

merry x-mas to you all...
i got myself a new hot air gun today...
it's made in china, its unique since i can adjust the heat and air flow freely... so i wont afraid if the air too strong and flew my chip away... also the gun's head is pretty small.. so i don't need to warp the board or anything.. its also consume 250 watt or something.. my last heatgun uses 2000watt!!!
i'll post the pic soon... just now i reheat gun the board, and use this ultimate fix.. hopefully now the fix will last longer than a day... since usually my fix only last for hours... show me your miracle, SANTA!!!

bakelo · « **Reply #72 on:** December 25, 2008, 10:59:00 AM »

QUOTE(bakelo @ Dec 25 2008, 10:57 AM)

merry x-mas to you all...
i got myself a new hot air gun today...
it's made in china, its unique since i can adjust the heat and air flow freely... so i wont afraid if the air too strong and flew my chip away... also the gun's head is pretty small.. so i don't need to warp the board or anything.. its also consume 250 watt or something.. my last heatgun uses 2000watt!!!
i'll post the pic soon... just now i reheat gun the board, and use this ultimate fix.. hopefully now the fix will last longer than a day... since usually my fix only last for hours... show me your miracle, SANTA!!!

arghhh... failed again.. after run smooth for 3 hours in need for speed undrcover... the game freeze back...
after restart it, the xbox runs normal but when i play the game it freeze back... arghh what went wrong?
i've tried to re adjust the tightness.. im running out of ideas...

humboldt111502 · « **Reply #73 on:** December 27, 2008, 05:57:00 PM »

QUOTE(bakelo @ Dec 25 2008, 07:35 PM)

arghhh... failed again.. after run smooth for 3 hours in need for speed undrcover... the game freeze back...
after restart it, the xbox runs normal but when i play the game it freeze back... arghh what went wrong?
i've tried to re adjust the tightness.. im running out of ideas...

If it only freezes now when playing, then it might be DVD drive issues reading backups. Does it do fine playing normal DVD movies? What does it do with retail discs? if this is the case, then u should try the POT calibration tutorial and upgrade to latest firmware if you havent already.

Also how hot does that 250 watt heatgun go? The one I use is 1500 watts and goes up to 730C. I always use an infrared thermometer to make sure the chips get over 220C. Could be possible your heatgun didnt reflow the solder all the way if its not dvd drive issues.

bridarshy · « **Reply #74 on:** December 27, 2008, 07:44:00 PM »

Humbolt, the 1500W heatgun can heat the board up to just about the right temp. I use an infrared thermometer so I don't fry the board. A 250W or even 750W will not be hot enough. It would equivalent be light baking it with an overheat.

Also, I didn't know you could use all steel like in this method... I thought that would short out?

Author Topic: Team Hybrid's Ultimate X-clamp Fix (Read 1418 times)