Topic: Team Hybrid's Ultimate X-clamp Fix (Read 1412 times)

humboldt111502 · « **Reply #75 on:** December 29, 2008, 12:59:00 PM »

QUOTE(bridarshy @ Dec 28 2008, 04:20 AM)

Also, I didn't know you could use all steel like in this method... I thought that would short out?

No, don't worry you won't short out anything using all metal washers. Just make sure to use the same ones recommended in the tutorial. The stock setup is all metal too.

dox_dormido · « **Reply #76 on:** December 29, 2008, 07:39:00 PM »

Hi,

I just finished this procedure and I'm stress testing my system right now. What's everyone else's experience with this so far?

bakelo · « **Reply #77 on:** December 29, 2008, 10:57:00 PM »

QUOTE(humboldt111502 @ Dec 28 2008, 02:33 AM)

If it only freezes now when playing, then it might be DVD drive issues reading backups. Does it do fine playing normal DVD movies? What does it do with retail discs? if this is the case, then u should try the POT calibration tutorial and upgrade to latest firmware if you havent already.

Also how hot does that 250 watt heatgun go? The one I use is 1500 watts and goes up to 730C. I always use an infrared thermometer to make sure the chips get over 220C. Could be possible your heatgun didnt reflow the solder all the way if its not dvd drive issues.

thanks fpr the reply humboldt.. im playing the retail disc... i've updated the nxe as well..
if i left the xbox on its dashboard it also freeze after couples of minutes.. but playing game freeze it faster...
bout the 250 watt heatgun.. i tried it with thermometer and it reach 390-400+C.. i've tried it to my old broken cpu's motherboard and it works well on removing few chips.. hahaha.. yesterday i pissed off and i reheat my board for around 8+ minutes... (im ready to buy new unit if this one exploded or so i think) now the unit runs for 2 days without freeze but i only play it for 30 minutes or less each time... im kinda paranoid that the 3rod will be back and its been haunting me ever since..

Danny-boy · « **Reply #78 on:** December 30, 2008, 04:09:00 AM »

A noobie question, but int he tut you're using a sander, would you need to use a sandpaper disc with that? if so what grade? Or would you just use bare metal disc as your photo shows??

humboldt111502 · « **Reply #79 on:** December 31, 2008, 01:46:00 AM »

QUOTE(Danny-boy @ Dec 30 2008, 12:45 PM)

A noobie question, but int he tut you're using a sander, would you need to use a sandpaper disc with that? if so what grade? Or would you just use bare metal disc as your photo shows??

Yes you need sanpaper on the disc and the one in the tutorial has sandpaper on it as well, it was just used a lot. The more coarse sandpaper u can find, the better since it would take forever with a fine grit.

shekina · « **Reply #80 on:** January 02, 2009, 06:28:00 PM »

so im just about done with this but i have one question...is the credit card pieces necessary or can i skip that? if so what exactly is their point? to even out the weight of the heatsink?

humboldt111502 · « **Reply #81 on:** January 02, 2009, 07:01:00 PM »

QUOTE(shekina @ Jan 3 2009, 03:04 AM)

so im just about done with this but i have one question...is the credit card pieces necessary or can i skip that? if so what exactly is their point? to even out the weight of the heatsink?

well Im not gonna twist your arm and make you use them, but they are useful to help even out the pressure. They act like shims used in many PC systems. For one thing they help ensure that the heatsinks sit perfectly flat against the die and can't rock either way which could cause cracks or chips. The other thing they do is even out the pressure from the heatsinks over the whole area of the chips, instead of all right down on the die. This helps prevent any flexing and hopefully help the fix last longer. Many times shims are made from copper or aluminum, but since there is such a small edge around the chips, we used the credit card strips so there would be no danger of a short and many times they are just the right height. Its good to double check the thermal grease imprint to see if they need to be sanded a lil first or not.

bahamasair · « **Reply #82 on:** January 04, 2009, 03:34:00 PM »

I fixed 2 boxes using this method yesterday. One was an elite and one an old box that had already had the x clamp mod done and got the ROD back. I used the same washers as listed but one of them did short on the elite. I smelled it as soon as I turned on the xbox and then the power supply went into protect mode so I unplugged it. The washer had only just nicked the edge of a piece of the board and cut through the green protective coating. I checked the washers and noticed that one side has a slight bevel round the edge and the other side is a sharp cut. The sharp side cut through the coating and caused the short. I took it all apart and flipped the washers so the bevel was against the board and pushed the one that caused the short over about a cunt hair. If I would have put the rounded side to the board in the first place there would have been no way for it to short because the rounded edge cleared the part of the board that it shorted on. I didn't have the x clamps for the older box that had already been modded so I put a US quarter in the middle of the impression in the board where the x clamps used to sit and it was just slightly higher than the edges of the imprint but worked fine it also added 50 cents to the value of the xbox

. I used 4 washers in each stack instead of 3 to make up for the missing x clamp. Both boxes needed one of the posts adjusted on the chassis. I used a ruler cut to just fit inside the case long ways and dragged it over the posts to see if they were higher than the raised ledge round the edge only the rear one was on both boxes so I tapped it with a hammer and a punch and it was perfect after that.
I have 3 more boxes to fix and will use this same method on them. Its a very easy fix and has worked well for me so far.

dox_dormido · « **Reply #83 on:** January 05, 2009, 11:04:00 PM »

Okay, so after running fine for about 10 days, my box is dead again with a 0102 error. I didn't use the credit card strips and i also didn't have the X-Clamps available so I used some card stock cut to the shape of the "x" impression to even out the height underneath. Any suggestions?

humboldt111502 · « **Reply #84 on:** January 06, 2009, 01:48:00 PM »

QUOTE(dox_dormido @ Jan 6 2009, 07:40 AM)

Okay, so after running fine for about 10 days, my box is dead again with a 0102 error. I didn't use the credit card strips and i also didn't have the X-Clamps available so I used some card stock cut to the shape of the "x" impression to even out the height underneath. Any suggestions?

Hmm well since u didnt try the credit card strips, I would say try that, and prob get rid of the x thing u made and buy a set of xclamps from someone, then get 4mm foam and make the pad like in the tutorial. The point is to have the foam pad underneath and credit card strips on top all even out the pressure on the chips. no need to make it x shaped.

paulo88 · « **Reply #85 on:** January 08, 2009, 05:30:00 PM »

I've tried various fixes in the past and they have only got the 360 working for a day or two. So Im gona give this one a go before I resort to buying a new console.

But first I have a few question that I need help with !

Firstly I no longer have my 2 x-clamps so should I just use 4 washers instead of 3 to allow for the thickness of the clamps ?

Secondly, I notice in the video that there seems to be sheet of metal placed below the foam ? Any ideas how this is done and does it improve your chances any ?

Thanks in advance.

Danny-boy · « **Reply #86 on:** January 10, 2009, 06:51:00 AM »

QUOTE(bahamasair @ Jan 4 2009, 11:10 PM)

Both boxes needed one of the posts adjusted on the chassis. I used a ruler cut to just fit inside the case long ways and dragged it over the posts to see if they were higher than the raised ledge round the edge only the rear one was on both boxes so I tapped it with a hammer and a punch and it was perfect after that.

Wouldn't both posts be the same height therefore both be too high (I'm assuming you are talking about the 2 posts suggested lowering in the tutorial)? Also, I was looking for a way to check post height exactly could you be a bit more specific how you did it with ruler??

Cheers bud.

P.s.

C**T Hair!!??

humboldt111502 · « **Reply #87 on:** January 11, 2009, 02:29:00 AM »

Im not sure how that guy measured, but we used 1mm thick washers to eyeball it, then used precision digital calipers and a mini level to test the height differences. To use the level, take a small perfectly flat piece of metal and sit it on one of the standoffs and the other side on the outer edge. First make sure the entire case is resting on a perfectly level surface. Then place the level on the metal and u can see if its level or not. This is one of the reasons we ended up reusing the xclamps....they were just the right thickness to make it all level. I tested with 4 washers and it was just a bit too tall in the middle then. 3.75-3.8mm for the middle screws was just about perfectly level with the other 2 standoffs at 3mm and the outer edge which was also 3mm.

paveynick · « **Reply #88 on:** January 11, 2009, 03:45:00 AM »

I did this to my Xbox on the day you guys released it and it's still going strong, not a hiccup. Just wanted to say thanks for the great work.

I used to be on edge when playing, expecting it to freeze/red ring at any moment but i have faith in it now

Neptune · « **Reply #89 on:** January 11, 2009, 04:55:00 AM »

I'm not sure why the OP was banned nor is it any of my business however I believe this thread should be locked since the OP is no longer on X-S and can't respond to any questions.

Author Topic: Team Hybrid's Ultimate X-clamp Fix (Read 1412 times)