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[paveynick]

QUOTE(yaywoop @ Dec 18 2008, 06:16 AM)

rofl xclamps made out of card? i don't think so.

if you read the tutorial you will realize what the idea is behind re-using the xclamps.
card will not provide enough force to the bottom of the gpu. think more along the lines of steel.

people are selling x-clamps on ebay as well

I did read it thanks.

[bakelo]

guyz, i've trie to heatgun my board, remove the x-clamp, use the credit-card method... but the 3rod back in 4 dayz.. (0102) it come with the freze first, the 3rol when i reset it. the problem is, i never screw the board back to the case since i heatgun it.. i only put it on the case without screwing it. i guess in my case there's no chance for the screw and case to bend my board rite?
also i use 3 mini 5v fan below the case (the one ppl use for the laptop) 2 on the gpu heatsink, and 1 at the front ot the cpu heatsink... total 12 fan cooling my board) i place the dvdrom outside the case.. so the temp is really cool... i also didnt put back the whole plastic case.. i even use toothpick to open and close my dvd rom tray..
what i want to ask is, how can my board still over heat? or how can the 3rol return?

[yaywoop]

QUOTE(paveynick @ Dec 18 2008, 08:11 PM)

I did read it thanks.

sorry, that bit was directed at Bassam19.

[bakelo]

now the xbox freeze everytime i turn it on.. geezzzzzz

[humboldt111502]

QUOTE(paveynick @ Dec 18 2008, 01:30 AM)

For now i have used some 1mm stiff art card.

Cut one piece 70mm x 35mm and folded it in half, so it's 2mm thick, and 35mm by 35mm. Did two of these, and joined them together.

The next piece 60mm x 30mm, folded again, did another, joined together.

Because of the fold in each piece, which it doesn't want to do, it pushes up, pretty similar to the force i would imagine of an xclamp.

Seems to be working so far

This doesn't seem right....did you put the screws through the board thing as well?  2mm would be too thick if you were also gonna add 3 more washers.  The distance between the board and metal chassis is just about 3.75 mm. so thats part of the reason we used the flat xclamps, they are just under 1mm thick.   I cant really picture what you did unless you show a pic or something.  Also we didnt want the xclamps pushing up at all really, thats why we flattened them.  Any upwards pressure comes from the pad used under the motherboard....foam, handkerchief, thermal gap pad, etc.  Also the pad needs to be firm but soft at the same time, so that no fragile components get bumped off under the board.

[Wilhelm_I]

QUOTE(bakelo @ Dec 18 2008, 10:46 AM)

guyz, i've trie to heatgun my board, remove the x-clamp, use the credit-card method... but the 3rod back in 4 dayz.. (0102) it come with the freze first, the 3rol when i reset it. the problem is, i never screw the board back to the case since i heatgun it.. i only put it on the case without screwing it. i guess in my case there's no chance for the screw and case to bend my board rite?
also i use 3 mini 5v fan below the case (the one ppl use for the laptop) 2 on the gpu heatsink, and 1 at the front ot the cpu heatsink... total 12 fan cooling my board) i place the dvdrom outside the case.. so the temp is really cool... i also didnt put back the whole plastic case.. i even use toothpick to open and close my dvd rom tray..
what i want to ask is, how can my board still over heat? or how can the 3rol return?

Take a look at the Proof of concept, the role that the heat plays is thoroughly explained in the tutorial...
You will understand it then...

[humboldt111502]

QUOTE(bakelo @ Dec 18 2008, 10:46 AM)

guyz, i've trie to heatgun my board, remove the x-clamp, use the credit-card method... but the 3rod back in 4 dayz.. (0102) it come with the freze first, the 3rol when i reset it. the problem is, i never screw the board back to the case since i heatgun it.. i only put it on the case without screwing it. i guess in my case there's no chance for the screw and case to bend my board rite?
also i use 3 mini 5v fan below the case (the one ppl use for the laptop) 2 on the gpu heatsink, and 1 at the front ot the cpu heatsink... total 12 fan cooling my board) i place the dvdrom outside the case.. so the temp is really cool... i also didnt put back the whole plastic case.. i even use toothpick to open and close my dvd rom tray..
what i want to ask is, how can my board still over heat? or how can the 3rol return?

Why would you not put the motherboard screws back in?  It holds the outer edge of the motherboard down and keeps it from flexing.  nothing will warp if you follow the tutorial properly.  Also you don't need 12 fans blowing on it.    If you just properly apply a good thermal paste, 12v the exhaust fans and do RBJtechs fanshroud mod, it would prob cool even better than your 12 fans.  You prob still get the error either because you didnt do a good enough reflow with the heatgun, or didnt get the right tightness on the heatsink screws.  If it has been heatgunned multiple times, u can try using a lil liquid lead-free flux to help remove the oxidation buildup and help the solder stick better.

[kaisek]

Looking at the pics in the tutorial.  One spot worries me.  When it shows the application of the credit card strips, they're being laid right on top of those little components on the gpu.  It just doesn't seem safe to do that knowing that you're going to be screwing a heatsink down on top of them.

[Mholt215]

QUOTE(humboldt111502 @ Dec 18 2008, 08:18 PM)

Why would you not put the motherboard screws back in?  It holds the outer edge of the motherboard down and keeps it from flexing.  nothing will warp if you follow the tutorial properly.  Also you don't need 12 fans blowing on it.    If you just properly apply a good thermal paste, 12v the exhaust fans and do RBJtechs fanshroud mod, it would prob cool even better than your 12 fans.  You prob still get the error either because you didnt do a good enough reflow with the heatgun, or didnt get the right tightness on the heatsink screws.  If it has been heatgunned multiple times, u can try using a lil liquid lead-free flux to help remove the oxidation buildup and help the solder stick better.

Ya but with the x clamp screws the board doesnt sit flat against all of the posts or whatever you guys called them, so when you tighten them down yes your keeping it from flexing up but your making it flex downwards causing the outer of the edges of the cpu and gpu dies to lose contact.

[humboldt111502]

QUOTE(kaisek @ Dec 19 2008, 06:08 AM)

Looking at the pics in the tutorial.  One spot worries me.  When it shows the application of the credit card strips, they're being laid right on top of those little components on the gpu.  It just doesn't seem safe to do that knowing that you're going to be screwing a heatsink down on top of them.

No, the credit card strips are not sitting on top of any components, only the outer edges.

[Bull In A China Closet]

Wow, you guys put a lot of effort into this. Looks good, too.  (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif)

Only concern I would have is covering the bottom of the GPU and CPU like that. Wouldn't that work as a heat insulator further compounding the problem of overheating? I could be way off on this, but it's a nagging concern for me. It will be interesting to see if this fix works in the long term.

I was thinking alternatively...instead of using foam and the pressure clamps, what about an RTV silicone mold putty like this: http://www.amazingmoldputty.com ? It's heat resistant up to 200c (400f) and cures into a firm pliable rubber, kind of like a clump of rubber bands. After mixing the putty you could place it in the case and lay the motherboard onto it and press gently then allow to cure 25 minutes and it's ready to go perfectly spaced, ready to be bolted down. You can cut it and shape it for better airflow, as well.

[kaisek]

QUOTE(humboldt111502 @ Dec 19 2008, 01:09 AM)

No, the credit card strips are not sitting on top of any components, only the outer edges.

Looking back at the pics and comparing, you're right.  I dunno what I was looking at.

[Wilhelm_I]

QUOTE(Bull In A China Closet @ Dec 19 2008, 11:06 AM)

Wow, you guys put a lot of effort into this. Looks good, too.  

Only concern I would have is covering the bottom of the GPU and CPU like that. Wouldn't that work as a heat insulator further compounding the problem of overheating? I could be way off on this, but it's a nagging concern for me. It will be interesting to see if this fix works in the long term.

I was thinking alternatively...instead of using foam and the pressure clamps, what about an RTV silicone mold putty like this: http://www.amazingmoldputty.com ? It's heat resistant up to 200c (400f) and cures into a firm pliable rubber, kind of like a clump of rubber bands. After mixing the putty you could place it in the case and lay the motherboard onto it and press gently then allow to cure 25 minutes and it's ready to go perfectly spaced, ready to be bolted down. You can cut it and shape it for better airflow, as well.

Actually the foam conducts heat better than air, so there is no reason to worry about that, I got temp probes and we have tested the temps with and without foam and the cores ran like 0.1°C cooler with the foam, I guess this is just a measuring difference but the foam doesnt make a difference at all, the heat is transfered to the heatsink ON TOP anyway if the bottom would be interesting there would be a heatsink as well...

And even if you would add super awesome heat transfer pads this wont make temps drop more than 1°C so it is pretty much not worth it, however we noticed that the screws transfer a lot of heat from the heatsinks to the metal case which is quite good

We have tried some sort of putty but this wont work properly because it will first not have the consistence that is necessary and second it will not be flat it would take over the form of the flexing mainboard which will increase the flexing even more...

[ladeback]

I was at Walmart and seen a pack of craft foam that had had adhesive on the back.  It was 2mm thick.  Just wondering if the adhesive on the back would be good enough to stick the two pieces together.

[Wilhelm_I]

QUOTE(ladeback @ Dec 19 2008, 09:37 PM)

I was at Walmart and seen a pack of craft foam that had had adhesive on the back.  It was 2mm thick.  Just wondering if the adhesive on the back would be good enough to stick the two pieces together.

If the layer isnt too thick it will be okay, also make sure that it is not too solid, the glue is really only supposed to connect the 2 parts so that it is like a real 4mm thick pad of craft foam...