Print

[bonzof.pl]

 http://www.elektroda...c...is&start=60
100X Hot Air bad

[Wilhelm_I]

QUOTE(arvkova @ Oct 7 2008, 12:34 AM)

Hello,

Here are some pics of the GPU and CPU solder balls

GPU Side 3:

Who said again that the silicone chips dont flex

The flexing looks bad mate and the solder balls dont look good at all.
What I often do when I get flexed mobos like that is putlike too thick credit card pieces on, so that the heatsink doesnt have any contact with the center chip die, only with the credit cards.
If you would start the 360 like that it would overheat straight away...
and then I put the heatsink back on with the x-clamp bolts.
Then you bend the original x-clamp a bit so that it has more force and is harder to put on.
Once you got it back on it will flex the chip back in position slightly, you may not wait for too long because if it flexes it too long you might end up with too much flexing into the other direction.

Only do this if you tried everything else but this has got even extremely fucked up 360s with flexed GPUs after other x-clamp attempts back to work for me.
I leave the clamps on there for a day or two depending on how fast it works.

[ShadowGuy]

Just wanted to let you know that those little pads (made for balancing pressure on chips) have been working great. No problems thus far, I also added TIPs to the RAM under the GPU sink.

[aeroshock]

Looks like mine is back to workin! yeah! Had the 0102 error. I followed all the instructions and cut up my subway card (thanks Jared) and still had 3 RROD. Tightened up the screws a bit and its green... yeeeeaaahhh...noooo... 2 red lights - promptly overheated. Tightening it too much would make it RROD but not tight enough and it overheats.

After taking it apart again I discovered the GPU heatsink wasnt contacting the chip, so I took the cards off and left the washers. put it back together and bam. Workage. Theres still cards on the cpu so I guess the distance between the chip and heatsink was different for the CPU and GPU.

So thanks wilhelm. I must admit Im surprised it worked, partially cause of my luck and partially because it looks so ghetto rigged. But I gotta give props to your German engineering. Hopefully this lasts a while, if not Im hockin it for parts.

By the way watch out for those x-clamp bastards. I sliced the s out of my thumb trying to grab one.

This post has been edited by aeroshock: Oct 7 2008, 05:34 AM

[arvkova]

QUOTE(Wilhelm_I @ Oct 7 2008, 03:43 AM)

The flexing looks bad mate and the solder balls dont look good at all.
What I often do when I get flexed mobos like that is putlike too thick credit card pieces on, so that the heatsink doesnt have any contact with the center chip die, only with the credit cards.
If you would start the 360 like that it would overheat straight away...
and then I put the heatsink back on with the x-clamp bolts.
Then you bend the original x-clamp a bit so that it has more force and is harder to put on.
Once you got it back on it will flex the chip back in position slightly, you may not wait for too long because if it flexes it too long you might end up with too much flexing into the other direction.

Only do this if you tried everything else but this has got even extremely fucked up 360s with flexed GPUs after other x-clamp attempts back to work for me.
I leave the clamps on there for a day or two depending on how fast it works.

Hmmm how bad are the solder balls? Like I won't be able to fix it with another heatgun pass?
Also, since my error is 0020/bridged joint, how can flexing it back to level repair the bridged joint/s ? Makes me wish I had an x-ray scanner

[bonzof.pl]

http://xe.brothersof...ex.php?n=repair
Wilhelm -I can see from the payment service.
workshop to work only gan Hot? and Torx opened.
Acha 2 020 post expert http://xe.brothersof...om/en/index.php
Spa... My xbox OK  

[Wilhelm_I]

QUOTE(arvkova @ Oct 7 2008, 11:34 AM)

Hmmm how bad are the solder balls? Like I won't be able to fix it with another heatgun pass?
Also, since my error is 0020/bridged joint, how can flexing it back to level repair the bridged joint/s ? Makes me wish I had an x-ray scanner

It can also be a cold joint imo, could only test that it can definitely be caused by a short or drawing power from the GPU(is quite hard just to remove a single solder ball under the chip lol)
I think it can also be a special kind of cold joint, like one that leads to a cap powering it or so

When you flex it back so that it is leveled again it will be easier to reflow it since the chip will be even at least, it looks like some of the outer solder balls are almost loose on your pictures.
This sometimes happens, humboldt had a 360 where you could clearly see it when I am home again I will post the picture...

@ the others:
I am glad that it worked for you guys, I could also have used this foam from AMD CPUs or whatever then it wouldnt have looked so "ghetto-like" but I wanted something that is available to everybody if people have to buy additional stuff it sucks and the credit cards work very well anyway...

And I am not an engineer lol, just a college student, am planning to study IT engineering when I am done with college and the army though...

[arvkova]

QUOTE(Wilhelm_I @ Oct 8 2008, 04:00 AM)

It can also be a cold joint imo, could only test that it can definitely be caused by a short or drawing power from the GPU(is quite hard just to remove a single solder ball under the chip lol)
I think it can also be a special kind of cold joint, like one that leads to a cap powering it or so

When you flex it back so that it is leveled again it will be easier to reflow it since the chip will be even at least, it looks like some of the outer solder balls are almost loose on your pictures.
This sometimes happens, humboldt had a 360 where you could clearly see it when I am home again I will post the picture...

Ok thanks for your valuable tips Wilhelm, I just placed the original xclamp + heatsink back on with thick square pieces. It overheated the GPU since there is no contact with the heatsink, so I'll leave it like that for 1 to 2 days as you said and I'll post my results.

[Onimu]

Wilhelm, on rrod w/0022. Should focus on CPU or both?

[Wilhelm_I]

QUOTE(Onimu @ Oct 9 2008, 05:03 AM)

Wilhelm, on rrod w/0022. Should focus on CPU or both?

GPU+ (H)ANA
-> 0022

[redsock]

QUOTE(Wilhelm_I @ Oct 7 2008, 01:43 AM)

Who said again that the silicone chips dont flex (IMG:style_emoticons/default/wink.gif)

The flexing looks bad mate and the solder balls dont look good at all.
What I often do when I get flexed mobos like that is putlike too thick credit card pieces on

Hi Wilheim 1. I don't understand what you meant by silicone chips flexing.

From the pics they look like the chips are totally flat and have just lifted off on one corner
- like in the usual way when the MS x-clamps don't work.  (IMG:style_emoticons/default/huh.gif)

This post has been edited by redsock: Oct 10 2008, 11:39 PM

[Wilhelm_I]

QUOTE(redsock @ Oct 11 2008, 12:38 AM)

Hi Wilheim 1. I don't understand what you meant by silicone chips flexing.

From the pics they look like the chips are totally flat and have just lifted off on one corner
- like in the usual way when the MS x-clamps don't work.  

Nar the GPU isnt flat it is slightly flexed because the chip die was pressed into the actual chip too much...
If the chip was completely flat it would also not have lifted on one corner...

And when you take the x-clamps off it never looks like that the GPU will be flexed into the exact other direction, just slightly though, you can barely see it with your eyes...

[manatarms25]

Looking over Wilhelm_I's website and tutorial here. He has done some amazing work on these 3 Rrod boards.
I do have a couple of 360's here that I wouldn't mind trying this on. Question for the pro

You said when solder starts to reflow it turns yellow/goldish. Where do you see that at? On the surface mount components? or under the GPU and CPU? If its under how the heck do you see that?

Also I had one motherboard once that started sizzling the capacitors behind the CPU. Not bad I stopped when I heard the 3 of the start. Do you think this motherboard is dead? Would it still work with the capacitors like this?

Awesome work and Thank You for all the help for everyone.

[Wilhelm_I]

QUOTE(manatarms25 @ Oct 11 2008, 04:19 PM)

Looking over Wilhelm_I's website and tutorial here. He has done some amazing work on these 3 Rrod boards.
I do have a couple of 360's here that I wouldn't mind trying this on. Question for the pro

You said when solder starts to reflow it turns yellow/goldish. Where do you see that at? On the surface mount components? or under the GPU and CPU? If its under how the heck do you see that?

Also I had one motherboard once that started sizzling the capacitors behind the CPU. Not bad I stopped when I heard the 3 of the start. Do you think this motherboard is dead? Would it still work with the capacitors like this?

Awesome work and Thank You for all the help for everyone.

depends on how damaged the caps are the ceramic ones are usually quite resistant so this will probably be no problem...
Forget the color thingy it is bullshit you cannot see if the solder is reflowed, the only way to see it is when you move the GPU and it falls off
Keep the timings, this reflows the shit for sure...

[dzydzy]

So I've finally managed to get my xbox to last about 7 hours and still going... but sometimes when I play certain games it freezes and i have to shut it down and I can simply turn it back on and it works again.

is it overheating or something? Seems to only do it with 1 game...