xboxscene.org forums

Pages: 1 ... 19 20 [21] 22 23 ... 27

Author Topic: Tutorial: Wilhelm's Improved X-clamp Replacement  (Read 3002 times)

bonzof.pl

  • Archived User
  • Jr. Member
  • *
  • Posts: 90
Tutorial: Wilhelm's Improved X-clamp Replacement
« Reply #300 on: October 03, 2008, 02:24:00 PM »

QUOTE(arvkova @ Oct 3 2008, 10:28 PM) View Post

Hello Wilhem & everyone, it's my first post here after lurking for a few days.  smile.gif  I've read through the entire thread and your elaborately detailed tutorials to understand your method for fixing the 3RRoD, so I gave it a go on a broken XBOX360 that I bought from a friend. It is showing me an error of 0102, so I tried the x-clamp replacement with the credit card bits but that attempt was unsuccessful. I even tried with several combinations of metal and nylon washers above and under the mainboard but to no avail. I've been doing all the testing outside of the shell to make sure the board is not flexing etc.

However, during one of my attempts, I removed the GPU heatsink and powered it up and to my amazement the green ring of light showed up for ~1.5 seconds and then the overheating 2 red lights popped up. Is this a good sign that I may be able to fix the box by reflowing?

I'm no stranger to tinkering with hardware but right now I have some questions on issues which are still bothering me. I bought a heat gun yesterday to reflow the x360 but before that I decided to try it on an old 6800GT card which was giving me graphical glitches (and heats like crazy too!!) since it uses BGA ram chips. After the heat gun treatment the 6800GT worked like a charm!  biggrin.gif

As for my questions, here they are:

1) When you mentioned the reflow of the mainboard on the top and bottom, did you mean to do it in a single process or reflow one side, let it cool, then reflow the other side and let it cool again?

2) Since I'm getting error 0102, is it better that I reflow the CPU, GPU, top ram, bottom ram, southbridge and ANA chip in one go or can I just reflow the GPU or both the GPU and CPU? Which one do you recommend?

3) When using the aluminium foil to protect the insulator, how do you wrap the aluminium so that no holes show up? I couldn't do it properly when reflowing my 6800GT and the insulating plastic inside completely shrunk and disappeared into thin braids  tongue.gif but thankfully no components were damaged in the process. Do you have to use tape again to fix the aluminium or do you just wrap it till it feels solid?

4) In your heat gun reflow tutorial, you say that the solder turns yellowish. Do you mean the solder which is visible on the other electronic components in the reflow area?
Thanks for your time and help  beerchug.gif

Hot gun Fixing the 3RRoD.way home/Remember what you are doing doing at your own risk.
what's next?
problem return
Logged

bonzof.pl

  • Archived User
  • Jr. Member
  • *
  • Posts: 90
Tutorial: Wilhelm's Improved X-clamp Replacement
« Reply #301 on: October 04, 2008, 03:34:00 AM »

QUOTE(arvkova @ Oct 4 2008, 11:55 AM) View Post

Hello,
Yes I know it's at my own risk but without risk i won't find out if it works or not ;-)
  Hmm I'm not sure what you mean by that, well yes the problem can return if I do the heat gun fix only but I'm not thinking of limiting the fix to just that, I will also be using the x-clamp replacement and also find a way to better cool the system.

Delete oryginal x/clamp
no credit card nylon  blink.gif temperatur plastic time.no silikon Ph.
HYBRYD yes Ok.
http://forums.xbox-s...o...3191&st=135
you do not have my heatsink
other
1- http://forums.xbox-s...howtopic=661197
2- http://forums.xbox-s...howtopic=661228
30%?
Logged

Wilhelm_I

  • Archived User
  • Hero Member
  • *
  • Posts: 937
Tutorial: Wilhelm's Improved X-clamp Replacement
« Reply #302 on: October 04, 2008, 06:09:00 AM »

QUOTE(arvkova @ Oct 3 2008, 10:28 PM) View Post

Hello Wilhem & everyone, it's my first post here after lurking for a few days.  smile.gif  I've read through the entire thread and your elaborately detailed tutorials to understand your method for fixing the 3RRoD, so I gave it a go on a broken XBOX360 that I bought from a friend. It is showing me an error of 0102, so I tried the x-clamp replacement with the credit card bits but that attempt was unsuccessful. I even tried with several combinations of metal and nylon washers above and under the mainboard but to no avail. I've been doing all the testing outside of the shell to make sure the board is not flexing etc.

However, during one of my attempts, I removed the GPU heatsink and powered it up and to my amazement the green ring of light showed up for ~1.5 seconds and then the overheating 2 red lights popped up. Is this a good sign that I may be able to fix the box by reflowing?

I'm no stranger to tinkering with hardware but right now I have some questions on issues which are still bothering me. I bought a heat gun yesterday to reflow the x360 but before that I decided to try it on an old 6800GT card which was giving me graphical glitches (and heats like crazy too!!) since it uses BGA ram chips. After the heat gun treatment the 6800GT worked like a charm!  biggrin.gif

As for my questions, here they are:

1) When you mentioned the reflow of the mainboard on the top and bottom, did you mean to do it in a single process or reflow one side, let it cool, then reflow the other side and let it cool again?

2) Since I'm getting error 0102, is it better that I reflow the CPU, GPU, top ram, bottom ram, southbridge and ANA chip in one go or can I just reflow the GPU or both the GPU and CPU? Which one do you recommend?

3) When using the aluminium foil to protect the insulator, how do you wrap the aluminium so that no holes show up? I couldn't do it properly when reflowing my 6800GT and the insulating plastic inside completely shrunk and disappeared into thin braids  tongue.gif but thankfully no components were damaged in the process. Do you have to use tape again to fix the aluminium or do you just wrap it till it feels solid?

4) In your heat gun reflow tutorial, you say that the solder turns yellowish. Do you mean the solder which is visible on the other electronic components in the reflow area?
Thanks for your time and help  beerchug.gif

This is a good sign just do the x-clamp fix but leave the screws as loose as possible...

1) You do one side and let it cool down , then do the other, do in no way move the mainboard in the whole heatgunning process or you might fuck solder balls up badly...

2)For 0102 reflowing ANA and Southbridge isnt necessary just focus on CPU, GPU and RAM, mainly GPU though.

3) You just try to wrap it until it fits blow at it like to make sure that it doesnt get loose. What I always do is use needles to fasten the foil then it has more hold and is easier to be kept in place...
the aluminum acts like a shield if plastic like tape isnt covered it will start smoking...

4) Forget about that solder can turn yellowish but it is not a definite sign, just keep the timings of 1minute preheating and 4 minutes on high this is just perfect.
There is no real way to determine if solder has melted or not and if you see signs you wont be happy about it like when compoenents move out of place(never happened to me though really, just make sure you dont move the mainboard in the process) tongue.gif
Logged

alef

  • Archived User
  • Newbie
  • *
  • Posts: 8
Tutorial: Wilhelm's Improved X-clamp Replacement
« Reply #303 on: October 04, 2008, 01:53:00 PM »

Hey!

I used your method yesterday and it went green after some baking. It's all fine now although the thing that worries me a bit is the fan noise. Before 3RROD it was quiet and after applying the x-clamp fix the fan is acting like a jumbo jet [as in very VERY loud]. I was thinking about replacing the fans with some less noisy ones. I know it will help but what if they act up like the current, standard fans? I'm fairly sure I did every step of the process to the letter.


Thanks in advance.
Logged

arvkova

  • Archived User
  • Newbie
  • *
  • Posts: 6
Tutorial: Wilhelm's Improved X-clamp Replacement
« Reply #304 on: October 05, 2008, 11:30:00 AM »

QUOTE(Wilhelm_I @ Oct 4 2008, 03:45 PM) View Post

This is a good sign just do the x-clamp fix but leave the screws as loose as possible...

1) You do one side and let it cool down , then do the other, do in no way move the mainboard in the whole heatgunning process or you might fuck solder balls up badly...

2)For 0102 reflowing ANA and Southbridge isnt necessary just focus on CPU, GPU and RAM, mainly GPU though.

3) You just try to wrap it until it fits blow at it like to make sure that it doesnt get loose. What I always do is use needles to fasten the foil then it has more hold and is easier to be kept in place...
the aluminum acts like a shield if plastic like tape isnt covered it will start smoking...

4) Forget about that solder can turn yellowish but it is not a definite sign, just keep the timings of 1minute preheating and 4 minutes on high this is just perfect.
There is no real way to determine if solder has melted or not and if you see signs you wont be happy about it like when compoenents move out of place(never happened to me though really, just make sure you dont move the mainboard in the process) tongue.gif

I just heat gunned the board and now I don't have 0102 anymore, I get an instant 0020. I know that 0020 can be hard to fix and the option i'm left with is to heat gun the board once again. For that, do I have to concentrate on the GPU and RAM right? I didn't heat gun the bottom of the board yet, would you recommend me to do that first before heatgunning the GPU and RAM again?

Also, I wanted to know if 0102 overrides 0020, so that it means that I have fixed my 0102 and now the error to fix is the 0020?

Thanks for your kind help smile.gif
Logged

dzydzy

  • Archived User
  • Newbie
  • *
  • Posts: 2
Tutorial: Wilhelm's Improved X-clamp Replacement
« Reply #305 on: October 05, 2008, 04:17:00 PM »

Got RROD again but I had to bake it (took like 15 hours).
Fixed the screws and got it to work without having to rebake.

Worked fine but just now the 360 turns on and gets green lights but the video is corrupted and freezes and stays stuck. wtf?
Logged

Vertex699

  • Archived User
  • Newbie
  • *
  • Posts: 1
Tutorial: Wilhelm's Improved X-clamp Replacement
« Reply #306 on: October 05, 2008, 04:19:00 PM »


Hello.....
This is my first post...In any case, my Xbox 360 showed the 3RLOD few days ago after 10 months of peace approximately tongue.gif .....it was a 0102 error.....i tried Wilhelm's method with slight unwanted modifications and it worked but now theres another problem.....my xbox 360 overheats and projects 2 red lights just after the blinking of the four green quadrants...I din get time to connect the fans..it was without the fans........Anyway what m I supposed to do now Wilhelm/Bosnia/M2X????

BTW i used rubber washers instead of the nylon ones cuz u wont get them here......also no spring washers so I used pieces of plastic card as washers making a hole in the centre  tongue.gif  What do u say about that? Another thing is I couldnt scrape off the MS' thermal compound completely.....

Another question> there's some red light error fix guide by Chris jones and X-clamp replacement by the FIXYOUROWNXBOX guy.......do u guys know anything about them and r their repairs good enough?
U may also want to check this http://www.llamma.co...x-clamp_fix.htm out as xbox_expert advocates it lol.......

Before i end i must say Wilhelm's tutorial is outstanding....Thank u very much for that....
Logged

bonzof.pl

  • Archived User
  • Jr. Member
  • *
  • Posts: 90
Tutorial: Wilhelm's Improved X-clamp Replacement
« Reply #307 on: October 05, 2008, 04:26:00 PM »

QUOTE(bonzof.pl @ Oct 3 2008, 11:00 PM) View Post

Remember what you are doing doing at your own risk.


no wilhelm turial .
It precyzjon job.
Your problem it people here forum confident M$ and reperatur bad etc. ebay not wishing to new proposals,for fear garanti.
If Poland someone is 3ROD for me, idiot and( frajer loser)if you do not do so http://www.mojagener...55820#slideshow
Can not read my turial.
I often console from Denmark, where it is not missing....
prophylactically ROD.then your problem or bad and OK.
Logged

bonzof.pl

  • Archived User
  • Jr. Member
  • *
  • Posts: 90
Tutorial: Wilhelm's Improved X-clamp Replacement
« Reply #308 on: October 05, 2008, 04:54:00 PM »

how to insert claws to the console, one with the second in August to think how many will work without a guarantee.
Logged

bonzof.pl

  • Archived User
  • Jr. Member
  • *
  • Posts: 90
Tutorial: Wilhelm's Improved X-clamp Replacement
« Reply #309 on: October 05, 2008, 04:58:00 PM »

QUOTE(dzydzy @ Oct 6 2008, 01:31 AM) View Post

I'm having a weird problem:

http://forums.xbox-s...howtopic=662916

have been the thinking that does not have a problem tongue.gif
M$ intentional? or group constructor idiot blink.gif
Logged

bonzof.pl

  • Archived User
  • Jr. Member
  • *
  • Posts: 90
Tutorial: Wilhelm's Improved X-clamp Replacement
« Reply #310 on: October 05, 2008, 05:36:00 PM »

This is the number 1 issue because I have 3 pieces to repair 65nm 3ROD
2szt 0102 and 1szt 0020 from ...fra.....
Logged

bonzof.pl

  • Archived User
  • Jr. Member
  • *
  • Posts: 90
Tutorial: Wilhelm's Improved X-clamp Replacement
« Reply #311 on: October 05, 2008, 06:03:00 PM »

What's this?

IPB Image

Fra...er idea deceive people jebay
gumi ram? tongue.gif
Logged

Wilhelm_I

  • Archived User
  • Hero Member
  • *
  • Posts: 937
Tutorial: Wilhelm's Improved X-clamp Replacement
« Reply #312 on: October 05, 2008, 06:10:00 PM »

QUOTE(professor_xbox_RETURNS @ Oct 4 2008, 08:07 PM) View Post

Dear Wilheim,

Firstly, may I thank you for your brave stand on my comments AFTER you got me banned.
I had always thought that the xbox scene forums were a place to discuss ideas and not just to agree with every word you say - I guess I was wrong.
Actually I do fix xbox 360's just not on Ebay. Got too snowed under with that and the kits so now I fix them in the local area only and have fixed around 400 so I know what I'm doing. A lot of ebayers actually wait up to the 60 day limit before posting good feedback and all the consoles I've fixed are still going strong after 6 months to a year.

Just because I'm not loving your (unproven) idea doesn't make me the bad guy. Last time I checked I lived in a Democracy.
My way of fixing works for 3000 people and is a permanent fix. Using a credit card on top is, as yet, unproven. It might work but in my (humbly democratic) view it's going to make absolutely no difference at all.
Actually this account is only the second I have created and that was just to be able to give you a reply. So where you get the idea that I'm spamming???? Bizarre. Guess you're just upset cos I don't love your idea. Oh well!  cool.gif

Dear Professor_Xbox, XS Filter - 043008 or what so ever

I dont really care how many accounts you created and are going to create in the future.
It is against the rules and if you create such an obvious nickname it is only a matter of time until the moderators see it anyway...

I think it is nice that the other methods are working so well for you I must have done it wrong then or it was just a coincidence...

The idea has proven to work several times especially for previously x-clamp fixed 360s, I do not deny that this is NOT the perfect way to fix 360s even this method got its flaws but so do all others, updates have to be made and they will come.
It worked for many members on here and got their 360s back to life, I must admit though that many are getting overheating error because of the different thicknesses of the credit cards.
If the chip is deformed or your credit card is too thick you have to sand it down because the height of the die changed...

Since I live in the Federal Republic of Germany I am used to "Democracy", you may not have noticed it but Germany got rid of its dictatorship 63 years ago...

I am getting the idea that you are spamming because you posted the link to your 360 repair kit 4 times in a row in 4 different topics even though and it was barely on topic at all except for the one "where can you buy x-clamp kits?"
This belongs in the BST forum but since you obviously dont care anyway it is just a waste of time telling you...

Am not upset because you dont like my idea am annoyed(to upset me you have to try harder) because you got banned in the first place thanks to that/you I wasted 75€ on domains but this is another story, your sales attitude shed a bad light on you begging people to buy your kids just looks unprofessional.

Well enough hating for now all in all I must though say that you have done quite nice things in the past though your water cooling mods are outstanding but I dont share you opinion about this heatsink weight problem though...


QUOTE(alef @ Oct 4 2008, 10:29 PM) View Post

Hey!

I used your method yesterday and it went green after some baking. It's all fine now although the thing that worries me a bit is the fan noise. Before 3RROD it was quiet and after applying the x-clamp fix the fan is acting like a jumbo jet [as in very VERY loud]. I was thinking about replacing the fans with some less noisy ones. I know it will help but what if they act up like the current, standard fans? I'm fairly sure I did every step of the process to the letter.
Thanks in advance.

Take off the heatsinks and check out of there is a clear imprint of thermal compound on both heatsinks if there isnt on one make sure the credit card pieces are not too thick if they are take them off and sand them down slightly..
I fthere is a good imprint on both you will not have cleaned the chips properly or so, make sure that they have a mirrorfinish..

QUOTE(arvkova @ Oct 5 2008, 08:06 PM) View Post

I just heat gunned the board and now I don't have 0102 anymore, I get an instant 0020. I know that 0020 can be hard to fix and the option i'm left with is to heat gun the board once again. For that, do I have to concentrate on the GPU and RAM right? I didn't heat gun the bottom of the board yet, would you recommend me to do that first before heatgunning the GPU and RAM again?

Also, I wanted to know if 0102 overrides 0020, so that it means that I have fixed my 0102 and now the error to fix is the 0020?

Thanks for your kind help smile.gif

Ye 0102 either hid it ornow everything is connected but shorting out, check out if the solder balls udner the GPU are in a good condition first.
For the heatgunning concentrate on the GPU RAM area thats correct...

QUOTE(dzydzy @ Oct 6 2008, 12:53 AM) View Post

Got RROD again but I had to bake it (took like 15 hours).
Fixed the screws and got it to work without having to rebake.

Worked fine but just now the 360 turns on and gets green lights but the video is corrupted and freezes and stays stuck. wtf?

What does it look like is it like extreme artifacts or like a chessboard pattern?
It might be scaler chip related then like E74, slightly adjust the screws more and more only do it by a small bit you will have to fine tune it more if it is scaler chip related there will not be a way around the heatgun though

QUOTE(Vertex699 @ Oct 6 2008, 12:55 AM) View Post


Hello.....
This is my first post...In any case, my Xbox 360 showed the 3RLOD few days ago after 10 months of peace approximately tongue.gif .....it was a 0102 error.....i tried Wilhelm's method with slight unwanted modifications and it worked but now theres another problem.....my xbox 360 overheats and projects 2 red lights just after the blinking of the four green quadrants...I din get time to connect the fans..it was without the fans........Anyway what m I supposed to do now Wilhelm/Bosnia/M2X????

BTW i used rubber washers instead of the nylon ones cuz u wont get them here......also no spring washers so I used pieces of plastic card as washers making a hole in the centre  tongue.gif  What do u say about that? Another thing is I couldnt scrape off the MS' thermal compound completely.....

Another question> there's some red light error fix guide by Chris jones and X-clamp replacement by the FIXYOUROWNXBOX guy.......do u guys know anything about them and r their repairs good enough?
U may also want to check this http://www.llamma.co...x-clamp_fix.htm out as xbox_expert advocates it lol.......

Before i end i must say Wilhelm's tutorial is outstanding....Thank u very much for that....

Hmmm

There are various reasons for the overheating.

If it is overheating pretty much immediately the heatsink wont be making contact with the chip die, this happens sometimes for the GPU then you will have to find out if it is your weird washer combination or the creditcard pieces that are preventing it from making good contact, just use metal washers only or if the cc pieces are the probem sand them down a bit until the heatsink is making good contact, even if it is just 0.05mm too thick it can already be fatal for the modification since it must also put the center of the chip under pressure.
To make sure that it does not only rest on the cc pieces make the layer of thermal compound as thin as possible

If it overheats after a while it will be the fact that you didnt clean microsofts stuff properly so redo it until it is perfect then and reapply an extremely thin layer of thermal compound...

Also get rid of your custom washers they will not do any good there just use normal metal washers if you dont have any spring washers...

I dont know anything about these guys since I never used their services , you might find some more details in the Service forum for modchip installers firmware flashers etc...


*EDIT*
And LOL @ bonzof 4 new posts since I started creating this reply, you seem to have too much time on your hands hahaha

Didnt see this 360 fixing advert on the forums yet though, where does it link to?
Logged

arvkova

  • Archived User
  • Newbie
  • *
  • Posts: 6
Tutorial: Wilhelm's Improved X-clamp Replacement
« Reply #313 on: October 06, 2008, 08:11:00 AM »

QUOTE(Wilhelm_I @ Oct 6 2008, 03:46 AM) *
Ye 0102 either hid it ornow everything is connected but shorting out, check out if the solder balls udner the GPU are in a good condition first.
For the heatgunning concentrate on the GPU RAM area thats correct...

Hello,

Yes I checked the balls under the CPU, GPU and RAM bricks last night and I noticed that there is a slight flexing on one side of the GPU and it wasn't really at a level with the board. Maybe it's the flexing that makes me see it that way. I'll check again when I get back home from work today and I'll post some pics of the GPU.

This post has been edited by arvkova: Oct 6 2008, 03:12 PM
Logged

arvkova

  • Archived User
  • Newbie
  • *
  • Posts: 6
Tutorial: Wilhelm's Improved X-clamp Replacement
« Reply #314 on: October 06, 2008, 03:58:00 PM »

Hello,

Here are some pics of the GPU and CPU solder balls


GPU Side 1:
IPB Image

GPU Side 2:
IPB Image

GPU Side 3:
IPB Image

GPU Side 4:
IPB Image



The CPU side 1:
IPB Image

CPU Side 2:
IPB Image

CPU Side 3:
IPB Image


Yes, I know I'm using some generic coolermaster thermal paste but I'll use AS5 as soon as I get it in the mail (have to import, no one sells that here in my country blink.gif )

Logged
Pages: 1 ... 19 20 [21] 22 23 ... 27