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[luther1]

I have followed this tutorial to repair a Xbox 360 with 3 RED Lights and error code 0022.  I heated it up on the bottom then the top replaced the X-Clamps and then I had Error code 0102.  So I repeated the procedure still have Error Code 0102.  Anyone have any suggestions?

Thanks

[Wilhelm_I]

QUOTE(luther1 @ Oct 2 2008, 02:10 AM)

I have followed this tutorial to repair a Xbox 360 with 3 RED Lights and error code 0022.  I heated it up on the bottom then the top replaced the X-Clamps and then I had Error code 0102.  So I repeated the procedure still have Error Code 0102.  Anyone have any suggestions?

Thanks

Give some more details, how long at which temps, did you take breaks, did you move the mainboard while heatgunning etc...

[Wilhelm_I]

QUOTE(luther1 @ Oct 2 2008, 02:44 PM)

I heated the bottom at 750 F for one minute, then I switched to 1000 F for 3 minutes.  I did not move the board or the table.  I waited 45 minutes and then wrapped everything in plastic foil then aluminum foil and heated the top on 750 F for one minute and then 1000 F for 3 minutes.  I did not move the board or the table while heating.  I let it cool for 45 minutes and then replaced the X-clamps.  I adjusted the tension on the screws loose, tight, nothing helps.  I tried putting pressure in different places on the board, still error 0102.

So I repeated the procedure exactly as described above.  Still get error 0102.

Thanks,

The timings on here are outdated, sorry about that but I cant edit my posts on here, use the timings in this tutorial
http://xbox-experts....p?n=heatgunisol

[Wilhelm_I]

QUOTE(euphoricism @ Oct 31 2008, 12:30 AM)

I heatgunned it -- but now I can't figure out how to get the blasted thing back together. I bought it pre-modded and pre-xclamprepair'd. Now I have some 30 washers and I dont know which go where.

I fail.

Please list up exactly which kinds of washers you got then I can tell you which one have to be used where...

[Wilhelm_I]

QUOTE(farntheplaya @ Nov 3 2008, 04:50 AM)

I like this tutorial it works good but i fix enough consoles to be able to afford an actual reflow station

my question is that is it any different than a heatgun?

also sometimes the board bends in (or out) while heating it also know as the popcorn effect is that good or bad and how can i prevent it

do you think I'll get better results using an actual reflow station.
Again I do enough consoles for it to be worth it. Im looking at buying a cheap one in the  200-400 range

thanks

You pretty much cant prevent the flexing completely some 2005er mainboards do this flexing thingy that you referred to as the popcorn effect.
In general it happens because of temperature differences on the mainboard because it expands in a different way which causes it to warp.
Try to heat up an area that is as large as possible to keep the mobo at an equal temperature or at least as close as you can get to that...

For the reflowing check out xboxhackers there is some German dude called gamemodz or summit like that he posted temp curves in his reballing/reflowing thread, just search for it on google...
If you get a reflow machine try to get one with heat from below this will prevent the flexing...

[Mholt215]

QUOTE(genxbox1983 @ Nov 5 2008, 10:27 PM)

Hello and thanks for your tutorial Wilhelm.  I am outside of the states so I decided to just do the fixing of RRoD myself.  maybe not the best idea.

Well here is my problem.  I did your x clamp replacement.  Now if I tighten the screws down pretty firmly the error I get is 0020 3rod if i loosen the screws of the heatsinks a little bit I get, 0102 error or a temporarily working 360.   it'll work for a little bit and freeze.  ( side note it seems to freeze more often with a dvd inside, less when playing XBLA games, although it has froze before.)

now.  any advice and should I go with the heat gun method at this point?

hope for some advice and input, thanks a bunch.

Yea the heatgun will help.. I think when you have the screws at the tightness to where you get the 0102, i believe that is the correct tightness of the screws, the console just needs to be reflowed.. Just go to harbor freight (look it up online) and you can order a cheap heatgun from there for like 10$.. it works great and its cheap.

[drew99]

Hello everyone, I could really use some help.  My 360 started with a no video problem and I decided to try and fix it.  I followed Wilhelm’s tutorials on both the x-clamp fix and heat gunning the board.  Excellent tutorials thank you for putting all this together.  The first time I heated the chips I got the board to around 370 degrees and couldn’t take it anymore and stopped.  Put everything back together using the improved x-clamp fix and it all worked for about two weeks.  I started getting no video again, which I wasn’t too surprised about because I knew I didn’t get the chips hot enough.  I took everything back apart and went at it again.  The second time I brought everything back and front up to 500 degrees, (I’m using a laser thermometer to get my temperature reading).  Started getting error 0020.  So I reheated the board again to around 500 and concentrated on all the chips.  By the way the poster putty, oven bag and foil work great.  I cannot get rid of this 0020!!  I’ve attached picks of my board.  All the caps look good the solder balls all look good, I was very careful not to move the board while it was hot.  I’m at a loss as to what I can do now and any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.
 

[drew99]

Linflas,

Thanks for the reply.  I've heated the backside of the board the three previous times but always heated the front after it cools down.  I'll try heating just the back (at least that's easy no covering).  I have machined blocks called 1 2 3 blocks that I rest the board on.  I know that the board is flat and level when on these.  I'll let you know how it turns out.

[Wilhelm_I]

0020 can also occur if you tighten the screws too much so when you do the x-clamp replacement leave the heatsinks almost loose and power it then.
And also make sure that under the mobo no parts are missing or have moved out of place and also on the GPU.
If you have blown a big cap this can also trigger this error so make sure that the caps are all good and not leaking...
More information on the error can be found here -> 0020

[lord^infamous]

Just adding my two cents.  Great tutorial but it needs some updating.  I give much appreciation to the fouder of this method because I use it for customers on a daily basis.  I have found that this fix will take care of just about every motherboard related error I have come in contact with.  I have also found a wonderful isolating material that is the BEST in my opinion, i'm not sure if anyone has mentioned this material yet. Isolating Material.  It's a bit pricey for someone that might only use it once but I use it all the time so it pays off.  The stuff is damn near indestuctable so I reuse it all the time.  I use electrical tape to hold it down and this method has served me very well.  One thing that I have changed from the original tutorial is that I don't wrap the material around the board, I just isolate the area to be heated and have the material standing straight up.  My thoughts are that if you wrap the material around to the back side of the board there's a chance that you can trap heat, which you don't want to do.  Just thought i'd share.

[drew99]

Linflas, Willheim I

Sorry for the very long delay.  I had a few bigger problems to attend too.  I am now back at the 360.


I heated the back side of the board as suggested by Linflas.  Put everything back together loosely basically just finger tight on the bolts.  I received error 21 three times in a row.  I let it run for a while and it overheated.  Let it cool down a bit and got 0020 again, let it cool a bit more and 0021.  Seems to be switching from 21 to 20 now.  I looked very closely to the back side of the board and I don’t see anything missing Willheim.  Also no big caps are leaking or busted on the front of the mobo.  I attached a few pics of the board on the previous page maybe someone can see a problem but to my inexperienced eyes it all looks good.  

I'm going to try heating the back of the southbridge chip some more.  Maybe the bridged solder joint is under there and giving me the 0021.  

Any other help or suggestions would to greatly appreciated.

[DWells55]

Fixed an E74 error first try using an embossing heat gun (max 360C) thanks to this method.  Now there's the matter of the DVD drive, but that's a whole different problem.

[oldmike]

Great TUT!!! Thanks to Wilhelm and everyone else that has contributed.
I have a box with error code 0102 and decided to give this try. I have a heat gun with 2 settings low is 550F and high is 1100F. I did the back side first 1 min. on low 4 min on high and waited 45 min. I then wrapped it using a cooking bag and foil and did the front 1 min. on low 4 min. on high. Waited 45 min and reassembled using the modified Wilhem X clamp replacement method. When I hooked it up and turned it on it came right up. I played for about an hour and turned it off. The next day when I turned it on the RROD was back with the same error code 0102. I am assuming that I did not get it hot enough. I am going to try it again and have one question. How far away from the board do you hold the gun? I was holding mine about 5 inches 12 to 13 cm. I have read through all 25 pages of this thread and found only a couple references to the distance of the gun to the board. One place said 5 to 7 cm and one place said 1-1/2 to 2 fists. How much is a fist in inches? I know that time and distance have to be related and would like to know what the optimum distance is?

[DWells55]

QUOTE(cookie_monster @ Dec 8 2008, 07:29 AM)

dwells - what exactly did u do to fix the e74 error?

I just used foil and plastic to cover the board as was recommended and used my embossing gun for about 5 minutes each for the top and bottom, holding it about an inch from the board's surface.  I worked in small circles and focused on the CPU, GPU, and ANA (pushing down on it after applying heat), as well as the areas connecting these chips.  I might have additionally done a couple 1 or 2 minute runs on both the top and bottom just to be sure.

I removed both heatsinks ahead of time and cleaned all the Microsoft thermal material from both the heatsinks and chips using high-purity isopropyl alcohol and a alcohol-based adhesive remover.  After heatgunning the system, I allowed it 45 minutes to cool and then applied Arctic Silver Ceramique to the heatsinks themselves, rubbing it onto the heatsink and then cleaning it out.  This allows it to sink into the ridges of the metal.

Then I applied small (half-grain of rice size) amounts of Ceramique to each chip.  Ceramique, unlike a lot of other thermal pastes, is not electrically conductive, which is great for GPU which has the two surfaces so close to each other.  Put the heatsinks back on, reassembled, tested, all was well.

Now that I know it works and assuming I can fix the DVD drive (check the link in my sig if you'd like to help), I'll be doing an X-Clamp fix and replacing the cracked case.

[stevenh78]

I am trying to fix a 0020 error and have heatgunned several times but still can't get rid of the error...  
A question - should I remove the glue around the GPU holding it to the motherboard to allow it to reseat better?  Was thinking if the glue had melted or something in the past and the chip is sitting a little higher causing no contact at the bottom, then no matter how much I heat it, it's not likely to reform the contact unless I push down on it while the glue is soft, however as mentioned in the previous pages, this seems dangerous to do...