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[Wilhelm_I]

QUOTE(dizzy1963 @ Sep 19 2008, 03:57 PM)

I don't know how to attach a picture but it was the little blue one in your picture 10v 220uf, it is next to the ram chips just above the sync button and next to a small transistor and two of the fixing holes for the xclamps. It is the only cap in that area of the board.

 It looks like it came unsoldered and the smoke came out of the bottom, I can solder in another if it is needed.

 The boy was playing from 16:00 till 22:00 last night and he said everything was still running fine, he has a car racing game that no longer freezes on him but mainly plays cod4.

Hmmm, it probably doesnt have a function that you are using at the moment, probably it powers the memory ports or so, is nice to know though that it isnt necessary to work.
Just for a note the part number is C5F8

[Wilhelm_I]

QUOTE(warbeast @ Sep 19 2008, 09:38 PM)

the way i look at is the xclamp on its own is not a fix just a way to push togther broken joints that will only move again...
even the 2 red light way of over heating after a xclamp fix that you see on the youtube videos isnt a fix as it doesnt get joints hot enuff to reflow them
i have always used a 2000watt heatgun the way i look at it is the heatgun reflow is the real fix then the xclamp fix is just to fix microsofts design faults so it doesnt fail again

The X-Clamp Fix on it own is a fix it is just not what I would call permanent it works for quite a while but in order to fix it properly you will have to give it a reflow just as you said, this will increase the life span of the fix again, the more careful you are and the less flexing you cause the longer it will work...

[Zoneout]

Argh, couldn't edit the above post, it timed out, bloody restrictions. haha

Okay, I just did the first XBOX 360, it was a success.
----------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Materials: (Australia) |
Blu Tack (Bought from local supermarket) |
Aluminium Foil |
Oven Bags |
Metal Thread Screws M5 x 15mm (Local Bunnings [Hardware Store] ) |
Spring Washers 1/4" (Local Bunnings [Hardware Store] ) |
Machine Washers 3\16" (Local Bunnings [Hardware Store] ) |
----------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Pics:
http://www.images.t3...om/P8190002.JPG
http://www.images.t3...om/P8190003.JPG
http://www.images.t3...om/P8190004.JPG
http://www.images.t3...om/P8190005.JPG

Cleaning the CPU and GPU until it's shiny:
http://www.images.t3...om/P8190008.JPG

Covering in Blu-Tak:
http://www.images.t3...om/P8190017.JPG

Covering it with two layers of Oven Bags (Cut to fit):
http://www.images.t3...om/P8190018.JPG

Covered with Aluminium Foil. (Use blu-tak to hold them down, and electrical tape for underside.)
http://www.images.t3...om/P8190019.JPG

AFTER HEATGUNNING: (Let it cool for 45 minutes)

Removing the foil:
http://www.images.t3...om/P8190021.JPG

Removing the Blu-Tak.
http://www.images.t3...om/P8190020.JPG

Revealing the oven wrap under the foil, - It does wonders, and doesn't melt. the Blu-tak also, it basically turns the motherboard into a heat gun-proof, no amount of heat would be able to make the caps bow or blow up. (Recommended method.)
http://www.images.t3...om/P8190022.JPG

The caps after the heatgun, seems untouched, just perfect. smile.gif
http://www.images.t3...om/P8190023.JPG

The caps:
http://www.images.t3...om/P8190027.JPG

Now apply some electrical tape to the screw holes (For people who doesn't have nylon washers.)
http://www.images.t3...om/P8190028.JPG

Make a hole out of it, using an stanley / exacto knife:
http://www.images.t3...om/P8190029.JPG

Should look like this:, The back should have it as well.
http://www.images.t3...om/P8190030.JPG

Arctic Silver for thermal paste:
http://www.images.t3...om/P8190035.JPG

Spring Washers + 1 Machine Washer for back:
http://www.images.t3...om/P8190040.JPG

Putting on the heatsink to bolt down:
http://www.images.t3...om/P8190041.JPG

Should be done by now:
http://www.images.t3...om/P8190042.JPG

Now drill the holes into the casing, to accommodate for the screws, (To avoid the motherboard flexing in the middle, (where the screws touch the case, needs room to protrude) - I use drill bits, starting from small, gradually to bigger bits for this.
http://www.images.t3...om/P8190043.JPG

Should fit perfectly by now:
http://www.images.t3...om/P8190046.JPG

Voila!
http://www.images.t3...om/P8190048.JPG


Hope this helps. (Will do the remaining xboxes later.)

- Zoneout

[Chimp5000]

Know where I can get the plastic foil?

[Chimp5000]

QUOTE(pthomas @ Sep 21 2008, 12:06 AM)

After doing the X-Clamp Fix and still no luck I decided to heatgun the top because I already did the bottom and I was still getting 0102. I insulated using drop sheets and then on top I used a couple of layers of aluminum foil. I started out with 1 min pre heat and then when I got to 3 min high the drop sheets started to smoke so I immediately stopped. When I put everything back in I got 0022. Now I forgot to say that I had already heat gunned the top before, but because I did not isolate properly I blew a cap near the end of the CPU and the part number is C6C1. Is it possible that this is the cause for 0022? If it is I have already ordered a new capacitor online and am waiting for it.
Thanks for any help!
I personally did not have much luck finding the exact foil that Wilhelm used but what I did do was follow
what bosnia_9  said and got some drop sheets/cloth. This helped, but after a couple of minutes on heatgunning on high I had to stop because it started smoking. Still the drop sheets/cloth did its job well.
You should be able to get the drop sheets/cloth at any hardware store, etc...
I got them at my local Wal Mart for about $4.00.
Good Luck!

[Zoneout]

QUOTE(Gnagus @ Sep 22 2008, 03:35 AM)

No ingredients on the box, so you can't make your own "batch". I'd be quite surprised if you can't find it in office supplies stores; Worst case, you can find some on the web....

It worked! My experience was a success. I litteraly encased the portion of the board to be gunned with blue putty, encased the caps, and afterwards I no longer needed to use tape; I simply pushed the plastic onto the putty and it sticked together. Add foil, gun, and my Xbox has gone from RRoD 0102 to a happy running machine (for the moment at least).

I'll make a new tutorial with my method (with credits to your method WilHelm_I); Tutorial : Heatgunning for those afraid of heatgunning!

Cheers!

Mmhm, I have done the same, it's a perfect insulator and pretty much good to protect the sensitive parts from the heat.

(Tut is already provided from a page back, but you are welcome to create our own)

Cheers

Zoneout

[pthomas]

QUOTE(Chimp5000 @ Sep 21 2008, 06:42 AM)

Cool man, thanks for the fast reply.  Didn't expect to get a reply in a thread that has 20 some pages so quickly.  By drop sheets/cloth, do you mean like normal cloth/bed sheet?  Im not sure what it would be or look like.  Thanks again!

Actually If you don't want to use the drop sheets/cloth, you can do what Zoneout did and use the poster putty, put that on the caps and then use some oven bags and put that over the putty. Then on the very top use aluminum foil. Seems to work well for him. He has made a tut and it is on the previous page.

[Gnagus]

QUOTE(Zoneout @ Sep 21 2008, 09:30 PM)

Mmhm, I have done the same, it's a perfect insulator and pretty much good to protect the sensitive parts from the heat.

(Tut is already provided from a page back, but you are welcome to create our own)

Cheers

Zoneout

  Did you read my post and try my suggestion before me? I posted on sept. 18th with the putty suggestion! THIEF!!!!! Just kidding.

Nice tut! I no longer need to write one! (I might write one anyway in HTML format with more explanations...)

However you should NOT mention that the putty makes the board heatgun proof! That's not entirely true; I did a quick test on an old motherboard; Three capacitors, covered in foil and plastic. One cap was encased in putty....

After 5 minutes of reckless heatgunning, I managed to blow up 3 big capacitors....   so the putty offers a good protection but it's not completely bullet proof!

But if you don't purposedly heat the caps, yup, the material is excellent and will ensure that nothing blows up!

Cheers, Enjoy your fixed Xbox!

Gnagus

[pthomas]

Alright, so after I heatgunned the top of the motherboard I am now getting 0022. I have blown a capacitor before and I think this may be causing the 0022. I have ordered a replacement. I was just wondering If anyone had any other ideas.
Thanks

[Zoneout]

QUOTE(Gnagus @ Sep 23 2008, 05:28 AM)

Did you read my post and try my suggestion before me? I posted on sept. 18th with the putty suggestion! THIEF!!!!! Just kidding.

Nice tut! I no longer need to write one! (I might write one anyway in HTML format with more explanations...)

However you should NOT mention that the putty makes the board heatgun proof! That's not entirely true; I did a quick test on an old motherboard; Three capacitors, covered in foil and plastic. One cap was encased in putty....

After 5 minutes of reckless heatgunning, I managed to blow up 3 big capacitors....   so the putty offers a good protection but it's not completely bullet proof!

But if you don't purposedly heat the caps, yup, the material is excellent and will ensure that nothing blows up!

Cheers, Enjoy your fixed Xbox!

Gnagus

Woops, didn't notice you made a tut on this before ,

Basically I meant, caps with foil + oven wrap + putty, will make it basically heat proof.

No way putty on it's own will survive the extended heat, haha.

But yes, it's an excellent isolator material.

Cheers

Zoneout

[cardboardbox]

ok, so I've read this entire thread and tried to remember as much as I could.  I'm getting 0110 error code so my focus will be on the ram chips.

The plan:

1. adhesive putty over the caps, drop cloth or oven bag if i find one, then foil on top of that.  Secure drop cloth as well as I can with electrical tape, then mold the foil on top of it.

2.  preheat with hair dryer for one minute because the heat gun I have only has two settings: 400C and 540C, then 4 minutes at 540C or until solder starts to change color.  Do the back first, wait an hour, do the front, wait an hour, reassemble.

A few questions:

1.  I've read that when doing the x-clamp fix, the screw + whatever washers can only be a max of 3 mm from the board or it wont sit correctly in the case.  I have two different screw heads and two different nylon washer types on my board.  The flatter ones are probably 3-4 mm, and the larger ones are probably no less than 5mm.  I already purchased more flat screws to replace the thicker ones but should I look into drilling out the bottom of the case?  And if so, do I also need to drill holes in the plastic outer case?  Maybe I'll be ok with the flatter heads?



2.  Is the circled area of this pic a problem?  I've never done anything to it and for all I know it may have been like this new out of the box.  Looks like an amatuer (i.e. like I did it) soldering job.



3.  Do I need to put the sticky pads back on the ram when I'm done?

[Zoneout]

You can't do much to it, it's fine, it's just MS being cheap on the motherboard.

You can put the pads back whether you want to, it wouldn't make much of a difference but go ahead.

And yes you should drill holes large enough to accommodate the screws that rest against the case, so it can be perfectly flat.

Hope this helps.

Cheers

Zoneout

[Wilhelm_I]

QUOTE(cardboardbox @ Sep 27 2008, 08:45 PM)

thanks.

One more question that I forgot to ask... I think it may have been answered but I cant remember.  Should I heat gun the back of the board before putting the foil and stuff on the front?

Ye always heatgun the back first.
And be very careful, avoid all flexing while isolating it/removing the isolation and dont touch it while heatgunning at all...

QUOTE(Gnagus @ Sep 22 2008, 09:28 PM)

After 5 minutes of reckless heatgunning, I managed to blow up 3 big capacitors....   so the putty offers a good protection but it's not completely bullet proof!

Hmmm thats a bad sign, looks like you will have to cover the entire caps then better.
I never managed to blow a cap with the plastic isolation, the worst that happened was that the isolation started burning and two caps looked a bit black on top.
The thing still worked without a flaw though afterwards....
Was an extremely fucked up one, was like the last attempts, did it for like 6 minutes....

[cardboardbox]

QUOTE(cardboardbox @ Sep 28 2008, 02:55 AM)

I just heat gunned the back but the solder never changed color.  I did it for 4 minutes instead of the recommended 3 (at high temperature setting).  

I wonder if it got hot enough to do anything.

I tested the heat gun on a spare part and it definitely does melt solder if I concentrate on an area long enough because I was able to smear the solder with a screwdriver.  Nothing on the solder changed color but it did get shinier.  However, the board did suddenly warp (sounded like a pop) a bit.

[Wilhelm_I]

I already denied that this is the fact like a few pages back, unfortunately I cant edit my main post...
You can not really tell by the look if the solder melted, the only thing you have got are the timings, if you use these you can be sure that the solder has melted...