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Author Topic: C4E's iXtreme Burner MAX v1.0 and iXtreme LTplus v2.01 Samsung  (Read 4022 times)

Exobex

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« Reply #120 on: October 23, 2011, 07:58:00 PM »

QUOTE(comhen @ Oct 24 2011, 02:42 AM) *

Great, I'm going to cross-flash my 324 to 524 to enable labelTag.
Is there anything I should take into consideration when cross-flashing or is it straight forward like below instructions?

Update drive firmware, backup Firmware and EPROM,  Select 524 instead of 324 when flashing C4eva's Max burn firmware.

Not quite. http://club.myce.com/f44/crossflash-ihas124-b-320122/#post2577448
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funksoulbrother

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« Reply #121 on: October 23, 2011, 07:58:00 PM »

QUOTE(comhen @ Oct 24 2011, 02:42 AM) *

Great, I'm going to cross-flash my 324 to 524 to enable labelTag.
Is there anything I should take into consideration when cross-flashing or is it straight forward like below instructions?

Update drive firmware, backup Firmware and EPROM,  Select 524 instead of 324 when flashing C4eva's Max burn firmware.

I'm pretty sure that's not how you do it.

Try the following at your own risk - I'm only saying this because I don't want to be blamed if you brick your drive! This is the method I used and it worked fine. Make sure that if you have multiple burners in your PC that you select the correct drive in the drop-down list of any of the applications you use for converting/flashing, or you could end up flashing the wrong drive and bricking it.

1. Back up firmware and EEPROM.

2. Download the descrambled firmware for the drive you want to convert to from the codeguy's site (http://codeguys.rpc1.org/firmwares.html), so in your case you want the AL27 stock firmware for the 524. They don't have AL2A (the latest for that drive), but that's not an issue as you can update once the drive is converted.

3. Update the firmware using the file you just download, then fire up EEPROM Utility, click on the CrossFlash tab and hit the "Convert Drive" button.

4. Shut down your PC to power cycle the drive, then when you turn it back on it should detect the "new" drive and it'll show as a 524 in Device Manager.

5. Update the drive's firmware to AL2A (the latest for that drive) either using the exe file that comes with Burner Max, the exe file from Firmware HQ or Lite-On's SmartPack utility.

6. Back up firmware and EEPROM again.

7. Flash with the Burner Max firmware for the 524.

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comhen

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« Reply #122 on: October 23, 2011, 08:17:00 PM »

QUOTE(Exobex @ Oct 24 2011, 11:58 AM) *

Not quite. http://club.myce.com/f44/crossflash-ihas124-b-320122/#post2577448



QUOTE(funksoulbrother @ Oct 24 2011, 11:58 AM) *

I'm pretty sure that's not how you do it.

Try the following at your own risk - I'm only saying this because I don't want to be blamed if you brick your drive! This is the method I used and it worked fine. Make sure that if you have multiple burners in your PC that you select the correct drive in the drop-down list of any of the applications you use for converting/flashing, or you could end up flashing the wrong drive and bricking it.

1. Back up firmware and EEPROM.

2. Download the descrambled firmware for the drive you want to convert to from the codeguy's site (http://codeguys.rpc1.org/firmwares.html), so in your case you want the AL27 stock firmware for the 524. They don't have AL2A (the latest for that drive), but that's not an issue as you can update once the drive is converted.

3. Update the firmware using the file you just download, then fire up EEPROM Utility, click on the CrossFlash tab and hit the "Convert Drive" button.

4. Shut down your PC to power cycle the drive, then when you turn it back on it should detect the "new" drive and it'll show as a 524 in Device Manager.

5. Update the drive's firmware to AL2A (the latest for that drive) either using the exe file that comes with Burner Max, the exe file from Firmware HQ or Lite-On's SmartPack utility.

6. Back up firmware and EEPROM again.

7. Flash with the Burner Max firmware for the 524.


Oh lucky I asked, I would have bricked my drive. Thanks guys, I'll try the following steps some time this week.
If I did Brick wouldn't I be able to use jungle flasher using liteon erase to flash back?
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ferrari 360

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« Reply #123 on: October 23, 2011, 08:35:00 PM »

QUOTE(decapitado @ Oct 23 2011, 06:49 PM) *


So, in resume:
ForcedHypertuning + OnlineHypertuning + Smartburn = profit with all discs biggrin.gif



About to try a Windata disc, I have the following settings in IMGburn, can someone verify I am set?

Burning at 4x
Perform OPV = ON
ForcedHypertuning = ON
Onlinehypertuning = ON
Smartburn = ON

For Layerbreak I have Calculate Optimal, is that correct?
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NitrousXBX

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« Reply #124 on: October 23, 2011, 09:18:00 PM »

Is there a safe way to restore the original eeprom / firmware after upgrading to ixtreme. It looks like after crossflashing, I didn't update to the newest firmware before going to ixtreme. I'm getting the 50% error no matter the settings.

NM: didn't realize firmware upgrade was the first half of the ixtreme process. Going to try some better media tomorrow
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ferrari 360

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« Reply #125 on: October 23, 2011, 09:28:00 PM »

QUOTE(NitrousXBX @ Oct 23 2011, 10:18 PM) *

Is there a safe way to restore the original eeprom / firmware after upgrading to ixtreme. It looks like after crossflashing, I didn't update to the newest firmware before going to ixtreme. I'm getting the 50% error no matter the settings.

NM: didn't realize firmware upgrade was the first half of the ixtreme process. Going to try some better media tomorrow


I am also failing at 50%... more details please? Second half of process? Media issue??
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pitabread

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« Reply #126 on: October 23, 2011, 09:46:00 PM »

Memorex (Ritek S04-66) doesn't work and Verbatim 2.4x version works fine.  For people with sucessful memorex burns who is the manufacture?
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DMagic1

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« Reply #127 on: October 23, 2011, 09:49:00 PM »

Most of the failures are media problems.
Not so much the media really being poor but the combination of the media and these Lite-On burners.
Lite-On has never been at the top of the list of quality burners so they pretty much require quality media just for a burn to be good.

I would start first with verbatim media with success and then try others. If you can't get verbatims working then you know you have issues.
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dreday78

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« Reply #128 on: October 23, 2011, 10:11:00 PM »

QUOTE(ferrari 360 @ Oct 23 2011, 09:35 PM) *

About to try a Windata disc, I have the following settings in IMGburn, can someone verify I am set?

Burning at 4x
Perform OPV = ON
ForcedHypertuning = ON
Onlinehypertuning = ON
Smartburn = ON

For Layerbreak I have Calculate Optimal, is that correct?


Yeah, that's pretty much the settings I used and it verified all the games I've burned so far.  I would just make sure you're using the latest Imgburn.
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angrykid

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« Reply #129 on: October 23, 2011, 10:44:00 PM »

QUOTE
XGD3 - Another fail, all those false positive CIV checks on original media, imagine the disappointment.
Inevitable when you push discs and drives to their limit, must be getting desperate, well done Xbox Division


C4E is just awesome.  Anyone who can just come out and say stuff like that is a pimp
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Hercules Man

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« Reply #130 on: October 23, 2011, 11:47:00 PM »

QUOTE(funksoulbrother @ Oct 24 2011, 02:58 AM) *

I'm pretty sure that's not how you do it.

Try the following at your own risk - I'm only saying this because I don't want to be blamed if you brick your drive! This is the method I used and it worked fine. Make sure that if you have multiple burners in your PC that you select the correct drive in the drop-down list of any of the applications you use for converting/flashing, or you could end up flashing the wrong drive and bricking it.

1. Back up firmware and EEPROM.

2. Download the descrambled firmware for the drive you want to convert to from the codeguy's site (http://codeguys.rpc1.org/firmwares.html), so in your case you want the AL27 stock firmware for the 524. They don't have AL2A (the latest for that drive), but that's not an issue as you can update once the drive is converted.

3. Update the firmware using the file you just download, then fire up EEPROM Utility, click on the CrossFlash tab and hit the "Convert Drive" button.

4. Shut down your PC to power cycle the drive, then when you turn it back on it should detect the "new" drive and it'll show as a 524 in Device Manager.

5. Update the drive's firmware to AL2A (the latest for that drive) either using the exe file that comes with Burner Max, the exe file from Firmware HQ or Lite-On's SmartPack utility.

6. Back up firmware and EEPROM again.

7. Flash with the Burner Max firmware for the 524.



Can you tell me if im doing this right, im expecting a ihas124 b drive soon and i want to make sure im doing this in the correct order. codeguy has fw ALOL version for this drive and the version in the c4e dl pack is ALOS, so i take it ALOS is newer and i have to update first using the latest stock fw for this drive(assuming fw will be ALOS), or do i just convert the drive to ihas524 b no matter what the stock fw is, then update the converted drive to the newest stock ihas524 b fw, then flash LT Burner Max for ihas524 b ?


Cheers

H Man
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coilz

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« Reply #131 on: October 23, 2011, 11:58:00 PM »

Anyone know what the deal is with people checking their imgburn 100% verified disc with programs like kprobe or nero speed?

Is 100% verified by imgburn good enough?
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ferrari 360

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« Reply #132 on: October 24, 2011, 12:02:00 AM »

QUOTE(ferrari 360 @ Oct 23 2011, 09:35 PM) *

About to try a Windata disc, I have the following settings in IMGburn, can someone verify I am set?

Burning at 4x
Perform OPV = ON
ForcedHypertuning = ON
Onlinehypertuning = ON
Smartburn = ON

For Layerbreak I have Calculate Optimal, is that correct?



With Forced Hypertuning and Onlinehypertuing turned ON. I would get burning failures at 50%, using WinData discs.

Turned these features OFF and disc burned with no errors but does NOT verify.


Will pick up some Verbatim discs tomorrow.
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Frawgg

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« Reply #133 on: October 24, 2011, 12:07:00 AM »

Possible chipset issue?

Using NVIDIA 680i SLI.....

First I tried the Stock and then iXtreme Burner Max firmware iHAS-124B because that's what drive it is.

I then crossflashed with iHAS-524B and still no luck.

AHCI/RAID Off or On it doesn't matter!

No luck whatsoever in ImgBurn with the following settings either turned Off or On

Force HyperTuning
Online HyperTuning
SmartBurn
Peform OPC

It doesn't matter what setting I use it will stop at 50% with the following error (see picture)

http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/220/capturewx.jpg/


This leads me to believe there is a issue with incompatibility with the chipset. I have another computer that is using a ECS Black Series board with another NVIDIA chipset GeForce 8200 to be exact and I have no issues whatsoever and even had AHCI turned on in the BIOS when I flashed the drives and even when I burn.

Used WinData brand media on both computers

ID: RICOHJPN-D01-67

GeForce 8200 - Works
nForce 680i SLI - Doesn't Work (Using latest drivers here http://www.nvidia.com/object/nforce-vista-win7-64bit-15.58-driver.html)

EDIT:
NO luck with everything turned off as ferrari mentioned!

There is something more to this than just media!
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ferrari 360

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« Reply #134 on: October 24, 2011, 01:13:00 AM »

QUOTE(pitabread @ Oct 23 2011, 10:46 PM) *

Memorex (Ritek S04-66) doesn't work and Verbatim 2.4x version works fine.  For people with sucessful memorex burns who is the manufacture?



Do the Memorex fail burning or verifying?


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