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[justice91423]

QUOTE(letsmod @ Aug 3 2011, 07:27 AM)

Can you just use the lower point of the K as a guide or does that printing move around from chip to chip?

[BTslo]

Well, here it's just under the K.

http://www.consoleop...winbond-mx.html

[DARKFiB3R]

Pay no attention to the "K", the alignment of that could/will be all over the place.

You want to follow the legs of the chip, to trace your lines.

[ModchipCentral.com]

QUOTE(repa @ Aug 3 2011, 08:32 PM)

 but i think imo maximus products are of better quality and lasts longer, keep up th e good work, CHEERS!

To tell you honestly, as a reseller of both, I wouldn't say they are better quality.  We used to sell the Maximus 360Xtractor and the amount we had to exchange and that came damaged from the factory was very high, yet each one was supposedly tested before shipping to us?

As for Team Xecuter, we've barely had to exchange any of their stuff.  Now, I'm not posting this to knock Maximus products as they sure as hell deserve some credit for their work, just my view of it as a reseller.

[dragon45801]

Forgive my ignorance but is there a specific drive model this is referring to? What is the difference between this method and the replacement pcb boards supposedly coming from Xecuter? I'm lost lol

[hardie]

Where is the best place to get a dremel power drill
(from Australia mind you)

[BTslo]

QUOTE(dragon45801 @ Aug 4 2011, 07:39 AM)

Forgive my ignorance but is there a specific drive model this is referring to? What is the difference between this method and the replacement pcb boards supposedly coming from Xecuter? I'm lost lol

Slim Liteon DG16D4S with 0225 firmware and Winbond chip. (identified via Jungleflasher or this http://team-xecuter....k360/mt_win.jpg )

QUOTE(hardie @ Aug 4 2011, 09:53 AM)

Where is the best place to get a dremel power drill
(from Australia mind you)

Go to a local hardware store, it doesn't need to be exactly Dremel, there are cheaper knockoffs that work just as good if you don't want to spend that much. I got mine for about 40$ with all accessories - even the flex shaft, and it works with no problems)

[angrykid]

dremel = long life
my dad bought the ORIGINAL model and it still works awesome, was using it yesterday to grind off some corrosion from metal

[danthaman673]

QUOTE(Skevus @ Aug 4 2011, 12:16 AM)

I Live in sweden and I found some here:

http://shop01media.c...search=DG-16D4S

They sell from Sweden and Poland, quite sure they sell to anyone in EU...

Cheers :-)
Seems they are either gone already AND/OR It wont let me see the page for some reason ...

QUOTE(hardie @ Aug 4 2011, 05:23 PM)

Where is the best place to get a dremel power drill
(from Australia mind you)

What state?
Try power-tool specialty trade stores ;-)

Damm wish I had bought shares in Dremel now


I would like to re-iterate (in the kindest way possible)  that if you need to ask a question here eg; should I drill just below the 'K' then this mod is best left alone unless you are VERY keen AND have a (matching) spare PCB on stand-by, All I can say is: I hope TX are getting their chips thru winbond or ppl might run the risk later on .... I'll leave it at that, read between the lines or seriously
Smart is the guy above who is paying a pro for the hassle, if everyone could follow a utube tut then there wouldn't be any need for modshops, we get paid to refine this stuff before we work on ur gear, that's what you pay the 30-50$ for, don't be stingy(stupid) it's less than the cost of one game! and a lot less than the dremel gear (U really should use the press as well, now ur well inot the 100's for a mod that will most likely be superseded in SW when the serial writing method is found etc.. it's only a matter of time....)
Hell! I know some places are farming this mod out to other places , it's just that risky! And quite often it seems to be different from chip to chip (compounds and what not)
.

[SNAAAKE]

are these IC chips covered with eproxy? how are you supposed to clean the area first??

if not, then cant I just solder on the IC chips instead?

[chon_]

QUOTE(SNAAAKE @ Aug 4 2011, 06:38 PM)

are these IC chips covered with eproxy? how are you supposed to clean the area first??

if not, then cant I just solder on the IC chips instead?

Heat, then scrape with a tiny screwdriver

[4DoorITR]

The spark from the lighter causes it to go high and unlock again. The lighter is optional because you can unlock it with the wire also, same as the first unlock.

You do not need to do the trace cuts. That method is for the MX chips.

I successfully flashed a 0225 yesterday and made the hole by using an engraver I had laying around. The best part is that I didn't even plug it up. I just used the tip to grind away. The IC is brittle so it doesn't take much to get down into it.

[ruciz]

the lighter is a simple way to probe the point. plain and simple, if you feel better soldering the 3v3 point and applying 3v3 to the point then do that. Some modders want quick.
If you wanna trigger the high signal without soldering, use a little flame lighter - it will do it. otherwise heat up your iron and get a wire.

[ProphetOfPain]

QUOTE(360newb617 @ Aug 5 2011, 07:05 AM)

so your saying that after the first time you unlock it , that you can relock it and then if you want to unlock it again  that you can either connect the resistor to the 3.3v contact on the board and then touch the other lead from the resistor to the contact point inside the ic chip,the one you hit wit the drill bit connected to the resistor lead the first time, or instead of doing that you can just do something with the lighter instead of all that to ulock it the second of third or whatever times after the initial unlock right?
but i ant really see what they are doing in the video, do you have to connect th metal part of the lighter to some contact on the board? or the ground on the board? or you just click the piez ignitor while you have the tip of the grill lighter as close to the inside of the hole in the chip as possible ,and the lighter s not connected to anything? and then just hope that the spark from the ignitor arc/jumps inside and unlockes it?
it kinda almost now seems easier than the russian method if that is the case then
but can you do a full stock fw dump before unlocking? or just the key?
what if you burn the board? can you just buy another one and flash you stock fw back to it,or will you be ban flagged?

I think you are trying to reinvent the wheel.   After you unlock it and flash it, it will lock again.  So yes, in the future if you want to UNLOCK you can touch the 3.3 volt/resistor to your previously dremmeled spot.  OR, just click the piezo lighter (be mindful of components near so focus just above the chip) and click!  THe spark will set the bit to unlock and you can flash again.

I believe you have to unlock to get a full dump so you would want to do slimkey and save the key of course just as tutorial says.  I don't know if you have only the key if that's enough to program another original slim board since it has the serial data etc, someone else have to answer.  BUT, of course once you have the key you can save yourself with a tx pcb if you have too.  

NOW.. I would like to know how do you perform this without a lizard?  I'm running spiunlock but its just bouncing from 80 to 52 when I power cycle.  Can't I get the slim pcb into vendor mode with a probe or what not?  All i've done is phats.  I seen a video where the guy probed it but was in another language and he didn't show the board.  Looked like he had a reisistor to ground and then touched it somewheres but want to be 100 certain as to where.

[ruciz]

QUOTE(360newb617 @ Aug 5 2011, 07:05 AM)

so your saying that after the first time you unlock it , that you can relock it and then if you want to unlock it again  that you can either connect the resistor to the 3.3v contact on the board and then touch the other lead from the resistor to the contact point inside the ic chip,the one you hit wit the drill bit connected to the resistor lead the first time, or instead of doing that you can just do something with the lighter instead of all that to ulock it the second of third or whatever times after the initial unlock right?
but i ant really see what they are doing in the video, do you have to connect th metal part of the lighter to some contact on the board? or the ground on the board? or you just click the piez ignitor while you have the tip of the grill lighter as close to the inside of the hole in the chip as possible ,and the lighter s not connected to anything? and then just hope that the spark from the ignitor arc/jumps inside and unlockes it?
it kinda almost now seems easier than the russian method if that is the case then
but can you do a full stock fw dump before unlocking? or just the key?
what if you burn the board? can you just buy another one and flash you stock fw back to it,or will you be ban flagged?

yes
after initial unlock with 3v3 drill probe, lighter will do the same thing after that. if you were talented, and quick, you could use the lighter and drill bit. I think you would burn stuff though.
The lighter is connected to nothing. The lighter will create the weak high signal due to itself. it don't need a reference.
If you unlock the chipset, you can do a full firmware dump from the chipset. If you screw up and DON'T unlock the chipset and kill the board, you better hope you have a backup key or the console is officially dead. X360USB can pull the key from the console as well as the lizard. I don't know if the key dumper geremia wrote (tarablinda) for the 9504 will work on the locked 225 or 0401. I presume it would.
If you have a dump, you can buy ANY slim liteon board (TX or OEM) and unlock that and write your stock or modified firmware back. Each firmware and each board is locked to each console.