Topic: Russian Hack Working (Read 689 times)

manijak · « **Reply #30 on:** July 22, 2011, 12:33:00 AM »

QUOTE(brucet2 @ Jul 22 2011, 03:08 AM)

On my 0225, the SPI seems to still be LOCKED. As the Slim Unlock button in jungle Flasher "fails" like a normal unflashed 0225 drive.

so what happaned in the end did you manage to flash it or what?
is it on 1.9 with july ¸17 xboxlive update

eastoakland · « **Reply #31 on:** July 22, 2011, 12:43:00 AM »

QUOTE(brucet2 @ Jul 22 2011, 07:15 AM)

I got this when trying to flash myself. It was my own fault, as the MPX01 point isn't the innie on the board, its the outie.

MPX01 is the point encircled with white.

That solved my issues. Hope it helps with yours too.

I think I found it. It was on the other side of the board. I probed the hole at first thinking it was the point since I thought the circles one was a resistor since it was marked R17 or something right next to it. Should have figured that that label wasn't calling that outtie a resistor.

eastoakland · « **Reply #32 on:** July 22, 2011, 12:58:00 AM »

Ok so the drive is giving a good status of 0x72 now after using the probe 3 correctly but now the russian program is always telling my drive is locked even though the status is 0x72.

Is there a step between getting status 0x72 and running the russian program I am missing besides removing the probe from MPX01 point?

btw the russian program is giving me an status or error of 0x8C

This post has been edited by eastoakland: Jul 22 2011, 08:45 AM

eastoakland · « **Reply #33 on:** July 22, 2011, 03:24:00 AM »

btw my 9504 drive apparently has a winbond chip in it (I didn't even know that was possible) that maybe my problem?
(IMG:http://i53.tinypic.com/300xsvk.jpg)
Anyone else successful a dumping and flashing a winbond chip? If so your steps would be greatly appreciated

This post has been edited by eastoakland: Jul 22 2011, 10:33 AM

dougiegillam · « **Reply #34 on:** July 22, 2011, 05:02:00 AM »

QUOTE(eastoakland @ Jul 22 2011, 10:24 AM)

btw my 9504 drive apparently has a winbond chip in it (I didn't even know that was possible) that maybe my problem?
IPB Image

Anyone else successful a dumping and flashing a winbond chip? If so your steps would be greatly appreciated

Yes same here has anyone unlocked the spi using the Russian hack method with Winbond, if so then what resistor value etc.

modguru.gr · « **Reply #35 on:** July 22, 2011, 05:56:00 AM »

for the moment only this type of chip works Winbond Mediatek MT1335WE - 1011 - BLSL WORKED - Resistor 10r
look in the pcb the chip write on it the info .

bluemimmosa · « **Reply #36 on:** July 22, 2011, 06:30:00 AM »

from xboxhacker.net
by glaze83

Found something interesting in regard to disabling the write protect bit which will mean more to people with actual knowledge about programming.

The mcix's writing protect is disabled #cs goes low -> send instruction -> cs goes high

Whereas the winbond mentions #cs goes low -> shifting the 06h instruction into the rising edge of the clk -> cs goes high

dougiegillam · « **Reply #37 on:** July 22, 2011, 08:13:00 AM »

QUOTE(modguru.gr @ Jul 22 2011, 12:56 PM)

for the moment only this type of chip works Winbond Mediatek MT1335WE - 1011 - BLSL WORKED - Resistor 10r
look in the pcb the chip write on it the info .

The number on the chip is almost identical to the one quoted above apart from the 1011 is 1010 on mine. Do you know if this is ok?

sttormpt · « **Reply #38 on:** July 22, 2011, 08:24:00 AM »

anyone tried in Winbond Mediatek MT1335WE - 1005 - BLSL

dougiegillam · « **Reply #39 on:** July 22, 2011, 08:28:00 AM »

QUOTE(sttormpt @ Jul 22 2011, 03:24 PM)

anyone tried in Winbond Mediatek MT1335WE - 1005 - BLSL

Just found this info on a german site regarding the Winbond MT 1335WE getting the russian hack to work.

Winbond Mediatek MT1335WE - 1010 - BLSL didn't don't WORK

Winbond Mediatek MT1335WE - 1011 - BLSL WORKED - 10r resistor

Winbond Mediatek MT1335WE - 1014 - BLSL didn't don't WORK

Winbond Mediatek MT1335WE - 1016 - BLSL WORKED - 10r resistor

Winbond Mediatek MT1335WE - 1017 - BLSL didn't don't WORK
Winbond Mediatek MT1335WE - 1019 - BLSL didn't don't WORK
Winbond Mediatek MT1335WE - 1020 - BLSL didn't don't WORK
Winbond Mediatek MT1335WE - 1036 - BLSL didn't don't WORK
Winbond Mediatek MT1335WE - 1038 - CMSL didn't don't WORK
Winbond Mediatek MT1335WE - 1040 - BLSL didn't don't WORK
Winbond Mediatek MT1335WE - 1041 - CMSL didn't don't WORK
Winbond Mediatek MT1335WE - 1042 - CMSL didn't don't WORK
Winbond Mediatek MT1335WE - 1048 - BLSL didn't don't WORK
Winbond Mediatek MT1335WE - 1051 - BLSL didn't don't WORK

sttormpt · « **Reply #40 on:** July 22, 2011, 08:37:00 AM »

thanks but dont anwser my question.. all drives i have seen people respond work or dont work are always

MT1335WE - 101x

and not MT1335WE - 100x like mine

manijak · « **Reply #41 on:** July 22, 2011, 10:28:00 AM »

anyone mada a youtube video of this???
if so can pm the link or post this,i mean a tutorial on how to use ruussian method

BoNg420 · « **Reply #42 on:** July 22, 2011, 10:37:00 AM »

QUOTE(dougiegillam @ Jul 22 2011, 10:28 AM)

Just found this info on a german site regarding the Winbond MT 1335WE getting the russian hack to work.

Winbond Mediatek MT1335WE - 1010 - BLSL didn't don't WORK

Winbond Mediatek MT1335WE - 1011 - BLSL WORKED - 10r resistor

Winbond Mediatek MT1335WE - 1014 - BLSL didn't don't WORK

Winbond Mediatek MT1335WE - 1016 - BLSL WORKED - 10r resistor

Winbond Mediatek MT1335WE - 1017 - BLSL didn't don't WORK
Winbond Mediatek MT1335WE - 1019 - BLSL didn't don't WORK
Winbond Mediatek MT1335WE - 1020 - BLSL didn't don't WORK
Winbond Mediatek MT1335WE - 1036 - BLSL didn't don't WORK
Winbond Mediatek MT1335WE - 1038 - CMSL didn't don't WORK
Winbond Mediatek MT1335WE - 1040 - BLSL didn't don't WORK
Winbond Mediatek MT1335WE - 1041 - CMSL didn't don't WORK
Winbond Mediatek MT1335WE - 1042 - CMSL didn't don't WORK
Winbond Mediatek MT1335WE - 1048 - BLSL didn't don't WORK
Winbond Mediatek MT1335WE - 1051 - BLSL didn't don't WORK

What does the BLSL and CMSL mean?

snyder80 · « **Reply #43 on:** July 22, 2011, 11:02:00 AM »

Hi!

It´s nice to see that finally this diy-solutions made its release.

Regarding the winbond issues:

1. Russian guys/sekil say you you need max. 1,0V DC at the Probe. Since its fed by VCC/CS you need to burn ~ 2,3 V DC.
Since the russian site did update the R Values for winbond to 3-5 ohms you must use at least a 2W resistor/trimpot to protect from burning.

A far better/more stable solution than twiddly resistors/trimpots is

1) a 1,0 V Zenerdiode (at least 1,3W) to ground or
2) two diodes in series i.e. 1n4007 (VF=0,7V) + BAt41-46 (VF=~ 0,3 V) and ground. Even 2 LED´s in series could/should work.

The benefit is: the diodes remain a high impedance at C59 (could be realy important)

2. Since winbond chips (read datasheet) need synchronisation to CLK (MXCI datasheet doesnt mention this), the winbond chips are usualy much more stable by design.

3. i came across a very skilled italian board (tech´s might already know it). they worked on winbond´s software and hardware protection for quite some time.

Since i read across somewhere: "you dont need that russian tool..." is bs. Since that tool is sending Status Register Protect (SRP) and BP instructions. So USE the Russian Tool and click the UNLOCK utton!

4. Since this kind of MRA-check is like the ProbeV1-3 in old LT´s you need the "phat" button in JF. Dont use the "slim" Button (this is also found in TX Tutorial).

Good luck,

snyder80

This post has been edited by snyder80: Jul 22 2011, 06:05 PM

manijak · « **Reply #44 on:** July 22, 2011, 12:01:00 PM »

QUOTE(snyder80 @ Jul 22 2011, 07:02 PM)

Hi!

It´s nice to see that finally this diy-solutions made its release.

Regarding the winbond issues:

1. Russian guys/sekil say you you need max. 1,0V DC at the Probe. Since its fed by VCC/CS you need to burn ~ 2,3 V DC.
Since the russian site did update the R Values for winbond to 3-5 ohms you must use at least a 2W resistor/trimpot to protect from burning.

A far better/more stable solution than twiddly resistors/trimpots is

1) a 1,0 V Zenerdiode (at least 1,3W) to ground or
2) two diodes in series i.e. 1n4007 (VF=0,7V) + BAt41-46 (VF=~ 0,3 V) and ground. Even 2 LED´s in series could/should work.

The benefit is: the diodes remain a high impedance at C59 (could be realy important)

2. Since winbond chips (read datasheet) need synchronisation to CLK (MXCI datasheet doesnt mention this), the winbond chips are usualy much more stable by design.

3. i came across a very skilled italian board (tech´s might already know it). they worked on winbond´s software and hardware protection for quite some time.

Since i read across somewhere: "you dont need that russian tool..." is bs. Since that tool is sending Status Register Protect (SRP) and BP instructions. So USE the Russian Tool and click the UNLOCK utton!

4. Since this kind of MRA-check is like the ProbeV1-3 in old LT´s you need the "phat" button in JF. Dont use the "slim" Button (this is also found in TX Tutorial).

Good luck,

snyder80

can you pm me a link to TX tutorial or post it hir

Author Topic: Russian Hack Working (Read 689 times)