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[gutts10]

Hey guys... starting out this topic by stating that iv flashed plenty of xbox's in my time so i am no newb (but this is my first MRA hack). however, im not c4eva either so im no expert either.

my setup:
winXP sp3
.net ver 1.1, 2, 3.5, and 4
liteon 7series flashed with lt 1.1
ck3 lite xtracter

im trying to perform a MRA hack and i am 90% sure that the soldering and cutting job i performed on the drive was succesful. i proceed and follow the directions in jftut1.38 and everthing goes fine until i try to put the drive in vendor mode. i get drive properties and see all the info in the drive properties field but i never can get the drive out of x52 status.

if you need pics i will upload them asap but i am at work and wont be home for another 2 hours so sorry if im delayed. i will check this thread ever 15 mins or so so please bear with me.

edit: i forgot to mention that i am performing an MRA hack bc my HDD craped out on me and i lost me dummy.bin file! oopsy daisy

thanks in advance

This post has been edited by gutts10: Dec 23 2010, 10:30 PM

[mod_irl]

We'd probably need to see pics. and maybe a screenshot of jungleflasher to see what it shows.  Can you actually get it into vendor mode?

[iateshaggy]

if you don't get flash chip size, then hit the intro button again and you will get it.  no need topower cycle again.

[gutts10]

QUOTE(mod_irl @ Dec 23 2010, 06:13 PM)

We'd probably need to see pics. and maybe a screenshot of jungleflasher to see what it shows.  Can you actually get it into vendor mode?

i just got home so ill do that now... no i cant get it into vendor mode.

@iateshaggy
i tried that too and still no cigar.

[iateshaggy]

check your cuts w/ a multimeter.  use the continuity test and probe both sides of the cut.

[gutts10]

thanks shaggy ill try that now... im pretty sure the cuts are good but its worth checking.

here are the pics i took:

(IMG:http://i54.tinypic.com/214z7d3.jpg)
(IMG:http://i52.tinypic.com/vo7kex.jpg)
(IMG:http://i55.tinypic.com/hx543s.jpg)

its not the cleanest job but im sure that it is more than sufficient

[gutts10]

multimeter showed that the cuts are sufficient. to clarify the second picture up there ^^^ i edited where i placed the cuts:

(IMG:http://i51.tinypic.com/2d94coj.jpg)

here is my log in jungleflasher as well:

QUOTE

JungleFlasher 0.1.77 Beta (179)
Session Started Thu Dec 23 21:20:57 2010

This is a 32 bit process running on a 32 bit CPU
portio32.sys Driver Installed
portio32.sys Driver Started, thanks Schtrom !
Found 4 I/O Ports.
Found 1 Com Ports.
Found 3 windows drives C: D: H:
Found 1 CD/DVD drives H:

Drive is Lite-On.. Sending Vendor Intro to port 0xECC0
Status 0xD0
Re-sending Vendor Intro:
..................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................
Device Intro failed!
Sending Vendor Intro to port 0xECC0
Status 0x51
Re-sending Vendor Intro:
...............................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................
Device Intro failed!

thanks again

[iateshaggy]

now test all the solder joints to ground for continuity.

This post has been edited by iateshaggy: Dec 24 2010, 07:38 AM

[gutts10]

QUOTE(iateshaggy @ Dec 24 2010, 02:37 AM)

now test all the solder joints to ground for continuity.

just checked and continuity is fine. did my soldering look fine? iv done some other jobs on my xbox1, wii and psp before and never had a problem.

im just gonna do the boxxdr method and see what happens. unless you recomend something else...

[iateshaggy]

when you say it is fine, i see a blob of solder on the 122 trace that looks like it will have continuity from the trace to ground, u need to fix that.  u need to use as little solder as possible and as thin of wire as possible.  u need to use the mra method as you have already made the mra cuts.

[gutts10]

QUOTE(iateshaggy @ Dec 24 2010, 01:00 PM)

when you say it is fine, i see a blob of solder on the 122 trace that looks like it will have continuity from the trace to ground, u need to fix that.  u need to use as little solder as possible and as thin of wire as possible.  u need to use the mra method as you have already made the mra cuts.

Alrghty... I'll redo everything. I was hesitant to redo everything bc I didn't want to heat up the pcb anymore. I only have a 15 watt iron but iv seen and heard some horrid solder jobs due to over exposure.

Wish me luck and I'll update you on my success\shortcomngs.

Edit: this was a banned box and only an experiment. On my real box should I use boxxdr? Is that easier and does it produce the sane results? If I use boxxdr method do i follow jftut1.38 like I was using mra cuts??

This post has been edited by gutts10: Dec 24 2010, 08:26 PM

[gutts10]

update:

the second cut had some continuity and therefore was not a full cut. the ohm reading was somewhere nea 9.5. i placed a second cut next to it (making the original cut deeper and wider still produced 9.5 ohms some how). the wierd thing is when i test continuity from the pad all the way past the second cut it gives 9.5 still but when i probe the "stranded" middle trace to either side of it it will produce infinite. IM LOST!!! i dont know how that is possible.

i posted a pic to clarify what im trying to explain:

(IMG:http://i56.tinypic.com/2d76nq.jpg)

[iateshaggy]

all the green blank area around the traces is ground, if the solder is touching both the trace and the ground, it won't work.

[gutts10]

i took the wires and solder off and still had the same results. so theres no leakage to ground

[iateshaggy]

if you don't have any wires connected then you can't dump the drive and it still won't work.  in the following pic, after you get your wires back on, test the resistance from the red dots to the one red and black dot.  if the resistance is not ~100k, do not turn the drive on, every time you do you get one step closer to breaking your drive beyond the point of getting the key from it.

(IMG:http://i56.tinypic.com/33e52rb.jpg)