Topic: Hit A Brick Wall With The Liteon 93450c (Read 89 times)

b0xel · « **on:** July 21, 2010, 05:13:00 PM »

so I have everything setup on the PCB, plug it to my PC via sata slot ( 1 sata slot already used by my HDD) and then I pluged the xbox's power plug into it . turned on my PC, flipped the switch to ON, turned On the xbox (with the video cable in) and then I launched DOSFLASH32. but it didn't find anything?
WHAT AM I DOING WRONG?

PS: the drives tray was IN, the whole time and I used a 22 ohm resistor( red, red, black, silver)

Dark Mod · « **Reply #1 on:** July 21, 2010, 05:26:00 PM »

it don't work properly when you use the xbox 360 as the power source, try and obtain a connectivity kit that is compatible with liteons

b0xel · « **Reply #2 on:** July 21, 2010, 05:49:00 PM »

they don't have those where I live, but I've been told that I can in fact use the xbox as a power suply

ken D. · « **Reply #3 on:** July 21, 2010, 06:15:00 PM »

try jungle flasher and use the xbox power to do the power cycle( pull the power connector in and out untill JF recignizes the drive, when when you hit the intro/dvice ID button in JF? it will recognize ur drive weather in vendor mode after the power cycle or before when you open JF, in the mtk flash tab.

This post has been edited by ken D.: Jul 22 2010, 01:16 AM

Dark Mod · « **Reply #4 on:** July 21, 2010, 07:09:00 PM »

QUOTE(b0xel @ Jul 21 2010, 07:49 PM)

they don't have those where I live, but I've been told that I can in fact use the xbox as a power suply

a little tip here: ensure your solder connections are clean and don't have any shorts or cold solder and you will be able to get her in vendor mode

b0xel · « **Reply #5 on:** July 21, 2010, 07:15:00 PM »

didn't work, I'll try re-soldering everything, and using a 20 ohm resistor. or should I just put the xbox in mode B, if so, how do I eject the tray with the traces cut?

This post has been edited by b0xel: Jul 22 2010, 02:16 AM

Dark Mod · « **Reply #6 on:** July 21, 2010, 07:17:00 PM »

QUOTE(b0xel @ Jul 21 2010, 09:15 PM)

didn't work, I'll try re-soldering everything, and using a 20 ohm resistor. or should I just put the xbox in mode B, if so, how do I eject the tray with the traces cut?

once the traces got cut, the tray can't be ejected. remember the liteon company removed the tray function feature to prevent hackers from getting the drivekey

Buzzcut · « **Reply #7 on:** July 22, 2010, 01:10:00 AM »

I use the Xbox to power all of my flashes so it definitely works but you're doing it the wrong way. I use a homemade vampire probe but the principle is still the same.

I have the SATA and DVD power connected and the Xbox off, the 3v and Ground are connected on the PCB. I open JF at the correct port and hit "Intro". Almost immediately with the same hand that clicked the mouse I push the power button on the front of the Xbox. The status in JF should change to 0x72 (but you won't see the Flash properties yet) and as soon as it does cut the ground connection but keep the 3v. You should see the flash properties and can now dump the firmware.

Some flash straight away with LT but I prefer to repair then flash the normal way, I can't seem to break old habits.

EDIT: Mode B is for Hitachis and there's no need to Eject the tray/half tray with the MRA/boxxdr method.

This post has been edited by Buzzcut: Jul 22 2010, 08:12 AM

Syn201 · « **Reply #8 on:** July 22, 2010, 03:20:00 AM »

QUOTE(b0xel @ Jul 22 2010, 12:49 AM)

they don't have those where I live, but I've been told that I can in fact use the xbox as a power suply

order one of the internet i woldent trust a 360 as power

http://team-xecuter.com/where-to-buy/

any of them stores there will do for a ck3 im unsure where to buy another brand of kit from as i only use sites of that page never had problem with them so pointless changing ..

Buzzcut · « **Reply #9 on:** July 22, 2010, 04:31:00 AM »

QUOTE(Syn201 @ Jul 22 2010, 10:20 AM)

i woldent trust a 360 as power

So you're saying that you don't trust your Xbox to turn on when you hit the power button every time? Or that your Xbox suddenly crashes because of voltage instability?

I'd trust the power supply in the millions of xboxes out there just as much as some overpriced (and I'm comparing this to "free") third party piece of equipment. I've done 100s of upgrades of every drive using the Xbox and never had an issue, but each to his own I'm just saying to the OP that you definitely don't need a CK. Just follow my method and you'll be fine.

b0xel · « **Reply #10 on:** July 22, 2010, 07:31:00 AM »

can you give me a tutorial on how to make the vampire probe ....thnx

b0xel · « **Reply #11 on:** July 22, 2010, 08:30:00 AM »

BTW, I forgot to mention that I have a DVD in the drive. would that cause any problems?

iateshaggy · « **Reply #12 on:** July 22, 2010, 10:59:00 AM »

the drive doesn't have to be seen right away, send intro to the right port and see if it pops up.

Buzzcut · « **Reply #13 on:** July 22, 2010, 12:20:00 PM »

If you've already soldered the PCB with the boxddr/MRA nethod there's no point in making a vampire, just check everything's as it should be with a multimeter i.e. no shorts to ground.

Here is the tutorial for the probe I use.

xboxpirate11 · « **Reply #14 on:** July 22, 2010, 01:01:00 PM »

just adding in some tips that might help... since you are using a xbox power supply make sure the AV cable is connected also. It will prevent it from shutting down on you.

eliminate the toggle switch. just have a 20ohm resistor and a wire going pad 101.

-start JF
-hold/connect resistor and wire to pad 101 together
-power drive (xbox)
-in the MTKFlash Tab click "intro"
-it shoudl get "recognized" as unknown flash chip with status 0x72 like it was in Dosflash
-release/disconnect resistor from pad 101 wire
-click onto "intro" again
-now JF should recognize the Winbond SPI with status 0x72 and you can dump the whole drive

Author Topic: Hit A Brick Wall With The Liteon 93450c (Read 89 times)