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[Questi4110]

I was able to extract the key and flash the ixtreme LT 1.1 fw onto my Lite-On 93450c using the boxxdr method and jungleflasher.

However, when repairing the traces, I noticed that they were touching the ground which led to the three red rings on the front of the xbox.  I ended up repairing them so the red rings were gone.  

After that, I went to start the xbox and the middle green light was flashing/blinking and the drive didn't eject.

So I decided to re-check to see maybe it was a bad flash and went into Jungleflasher and did a Lite-On Erase (since I had already dumped the drive) but the drive was not recognized after that and did not go into vendor mode.  

Now I am stuck with a drive that is not recognized, has the green lights blinking in the front, and does not enter vendor mode.  Jungleflasher gives the 0x80 status.  I have tried power cycling at various points in the intro and lite-on erase process but nothing seems to work.  I have also tried loading into dos and using dosflash but it never gives me the FF72 status, only 0x80.  The green light is still flashing/blinking also.

I also rechecked the solder points with a multimeter and all points seem solid.

This is the first drive version that has given me problems so I know that the SATA ports on my motherboard are fine and are compatible and it did dump/flash the first time.


I think what happened was that I used the boxxdr method, was able to dump and flash the drive fine.  But then when I went to patch the traces, I accidentally hit the ground and when I was fixing that, I moved one of the traces, which led to the green light blinking/flashing. I incorrectly interpreted that as a bad flash and instead of checking the traces then, went to lite-on erase and possibly messed up the erase part and now I am left with a drive that is unrecognized.


Anybody have any ideas and what I should do, because I have spent several hours and tried many different things with no success.

THANKS!

[syntaxerror329]

Buy a new drive board. Sounds like you killed it.
I have some spares i can sell.

If i could re write my tutorial i would BEG people to check for shorts to ground before powering thier drives. I am a pro at it and i still check every board before powering!

[Questi4110]

QUOTE(syntaxerror329 @ May 15 2010, 01:10 AM)

Buy a new drive board. Sounds like you killed it.
I have some spares i can sell.

If i could re write my tutorial i would BEG people to check for shorts to ground before powering thier drives. I am a pro at it and i still check every board before powering!

What I don't understand is that the short to ground was occurring before I even dumped and flashed it.  I forgot to mention that in the original post but I had red rings signifying this short and then I fixed it.  After fixing it, I was able to dump it and flash it fine which means that it definitely worked after fixing the short.  I don't know if short to ground is actually going to destroy the board - a lot of people seem to get them and then fix them and are fine afterwards.

Maybe one of my other connections is faulty but it seems good...what points should I test on the board to make sure that current is flowing properly with the right voltage?


THANKS

[iateshaggy]

they can be funny like that, i fixed one for someone a while back that let me dump it and flash it, but to much damage was done for it to function.  new pcb and you will be fine as long as you took a good dump.

[syntaxerror329]

QUOTE(iateshaggy @ May 15 2010, 01:30 AM)

they can be funny like that, i fixed one for someone a while back that let me dump it and flash it, but to much damage was done for it to function.  new pcb and you will be fine as long as you took a good dump.

Exactly right!

Chip U501 is probably the culprit. It controls motors in the drive.

This is one of the things i hate about these drive boards. People send them to me and if they just want thier key great, if they want me to get the key and fix them then i have to install the board into a drive and do a complete test because this happens all the time otherwise.

[Questi4110]

QUOTE(syntaxerror329 @ May 15 2010, 06:28 AM)

Exactly right!

Chip U501 is probably the culprit. It controls motors in the drive.

This is one of the things i hate about these drive boards. People send them to me and if they just want thier key great, if they want me to get the key and fix them then i have to install the board into a drive and do a complete test because this happens all the time otherwise.

How can I make sure that the board is messed up?  If it is messed up, is there anyway I could fix it myself and how much will it run (estimate) me and where/which parts can I get it?


THANKS

[iateshaggy]

get a new pcb and flash it w/ your cfw file then solder it into the old drive.  a few of us have some for sale, pm me if u want.

[danthaman673]

If you say you did the MRA, Dumped OK then you put it back to get RROD, At which point did you replace the trax, as this is either the part u stuffed (Did you remember to patch the trax?? at all??) If this is the case, redo the lot and check for power - to ground shorts (As I also advised everyone to do in same thread and others) Don't write the PCB off yet, as it may surprise you.

Anyway, I was actually looking for a thread on Pin-lift-method (aka MRA method) problems with 0x80 in an effort to get a bit of data about the 8% of liteons that don't like to be dumped (or need impedance variations etc..) I'm keen also to find out if any others have had problems with getting vendor on LT 1.2 flashed drives (drives that flashed ok the first-time) As I suspect that the winbond chips can't take the pin-lift-geramia-MRA method (Over multiple times being vendored in this way - it would have been nice if we could patch FW that negated the need all together to do such a dirty hack. Hoping lizzard comes-out soon!!


Any help/comments welcome/Dan

[Takashi]

7 month old thread.   :/