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[shtewps]

Congrats! I knew you would get it.. not sure exactly what was happening with your other PCB but yeah, you will see 0x80 before 0x72 (IMG:style_emoticons/default/wink.gif)

It's very simple once you get in the routine. I've been using the probe still to this date on every MRA dump since I built it.

Thanks for posting back all of your information to the thread. Hopefully it will help others.

And yes, if you cut on both sides of pin101, you will need to bridge the outer traces still.

[garlon]

For me its safer to jump over pad101 and make two cuts. But if you feel comfortable making that cut great!
Anyway last night i was bored so i built this probe for new lite on´s. It works great! That pulse switch connects ground when pressed. It´s easier than  two separated needles!

(IMG:http://img3.imageshack.us/img3/175/probep.jpg)
(IMG:http://img716.imageshack.us/img716/9067/probback.jpg)

This post has been edited by garlon: Feb 10 2010, 07:03 PM

[totoz]

i added a 3rd cable to my ck3 pro (position 7 ground with 18ohm) because a customer's drive wasn't getting status 0x72 with 22ohm (only status 0x52)

i also tried to write the fw with the "dumping setup" (so still with UNJOINED cuts)  but no success (i erased but writing stopped at first bank)

why?

This post has been edited by totoz: Feb 11 2010, 01:03 PM

[garlon]

Does JF recognize the drive now? Do you had the 3.3v probe on the board at the time of writing? Try to erase/write again.

[totoz]

garlon i tried again and it worked!
done five 93450 today (with 18 ohm) , all of them dumped, erased and written with the dumping setup!

perfect cuts, i'm ready to work in surgery now!

i want to add a revision to my pic to help all users (things already written but pics are always better!)
see the four black points?
- well put your multimeter to 200ohm
- test the 2 lower black points and see value (do this test BEFORE the cut and AFTER)(before i got "0.08", after  "1"  ("1" means nothing on my multimeter and also means perfect cut!)
- then focus on the upper black points and do the same
- now you can read (dump) the original firmware (and if u keep 3,3 volt needle in position u can also erase and write)
- when the modded firmware is written , join the traces cut and test them again and you MUST see the initial "0.08"

enjoy!
(IMG:http://i46.tinypic.com/2j1nde9.jpg)

This post has been edited by totoz: Feb 13 2010, 06:44 PM

[snk64]

Thanks for the tips totoz.
What do you use for rejoining the traces?

[totoz]

I solder or use silver conductive paint!

[garlon]

Everyone should have a multimeter to do this job. I always do that to check if my cuts are ok. The best thing to rejoin traces for me it´s solder

[stevebull]

Does any know if it would be possible to convert a 7 series CK3 probe to work with this method,Im not sure about what wires on the power cable would need to be attached to the extra probe needed.

[garlon]

QUOTE(stevebull @ Feb 14 2010, 02:09 PM)

Does any know if it would be possible to convert a 7 series CK3 probe to work with this method,Im not sure about what wires on the power cable would need to be attached to the extra probe needed.

i think that the existent probe on ck3 7 series its not connected to 3.3v or ground so to mod it u´ll need to add two extra probs and leave the existent one alone

[rob2010]

thanks shtewps i finalyl got it working! a couple more questions now. do i patch everything back up and then flash the firmware? cuz i cant seem to get status 72 when i patched everything back. now another problem occurred i seem to have short or ground the circuit because my ck3 wont power now is there a way to fix this problem or check where the problem is? ps this happened when i was trying to flash the drive and the ck3 just stopped powering.

[totoz]

rob solder (or silver conductive paint) must be only in GRAY area - check with magnifier glass
NOTHING WHERE I DRAW RED POINTS
(in my case with ck3 pro rev.d, I know when something is wrong cause the red led on the ck3 doesn't turn on, this led turns on when everything is done like in this pic)

(IMG:http://i45.tinypic.com/8ydna9.jpg)

[speedy2721]

For the track that you need to cut other then the 101 track, I exposed the copper below the track so now whenever I put the paste only on the track, it still connects to the ground below the track. So is there any way to unexpose the area so it won't keep connecting to ground. Thanks to anyone that helps.

This post has been edited by speedy2721: Feb 17 2010, 10:19 PM

[rob2010]

OMG thank you so much totoz! finally got it. i had some glue left on the track and scraped it off. works perfectly now!!. thank you shtewps for the probe design its excellent!

[bigaznboi]

Hey guys, thanks for all the great instructions and pics (esp totoz).

I would've never been able to hack my liteon drive without this thread.

Unfortunately I didn't have a ck3 pro, so I modified my Maximus one.

Here's pics of my work  (IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif)
Click on them for High-res!

My Maximus before:(IMG:http://imgur.com/pkWRgs.jpg)     After: (IMG:http://imgur.com/3y7zDs.jpg)

finished home-made probe:(IMG:http://imgur.com/UpdtDs.jpg)

And here were the two cuts I made onto the pcb:(IMG:http://imgur.com/BhH31s.jpg)

I now have a modded jasper 360!