Topic: Diygadget's Solderless 83850 V2 And 93450 Key Dump (Read 1036 times)

Drefsab · « **Reply #15 on:** December 22, 2009, 03:53:00 PM »

Sorry if this is daft but I'm just a little confused on this, people are saying this method isn't good ok fair enough I accept that because there's a lot of people on here know a lot more than me, but the reasons mentioned is that the pads are likely to get damaged when you cut the tracks. Now this is what I'm lost because you have to cut the tracks on every method I've seen so doesn't that make it just as risky on that part?

Takashi · « **Reply #16 on:** December 22, 2009, 03:56:00 PM »

Not at all, because BOXXDR's method doesn't ruin the pads, and the trace cuts can be fixed in just minutes, rather than hours.

This post has been edited by Takashi: Dec 22 2009, 11:57 PM

Martinchris23 · « **Reply #17 on:** December 22, 2009, 04:22:00 PM »

QUOTE(Drefsab @ Dec 22 2009, 10:53 PM)

Sorry if this is daft but I'm just a little confused on this, people are saying this method isn't good ok fair enough I accept that because there's a lot of people on here know a lot more than me, but the reasons mentioned is that the pads are likely to get damaged when you cut the tracks. Now this is what I'm lost because you have to cut the tracks on every method I've seen so doesn't that make it just as risky on that part?

Someone with the right tools would just use a fibreglass pencil to expose the copper on the track, then cut through it with a craft knide enough to stop continuity. Then once it's all done, apply a little flux to the exposed area and flow a little solder over the break - good as new and takes seconds to repair.

Drefsab · « **Reply #18 on:** December 22, 2009, 04:34:00 PM »

ahh ok so basically it's the method used to break the tracks and then the time it takes to repair them?

Would that then mean an improvement to this method be to use the fiber glass pen and craft knife method to to the cutting?

Obviously then the fastest way to repair later would be soldering defeating the soldering method I just want to check that im understanding the issues

ps2moduk · « **Reply #19 on:** December 22, 2009, 06:45:00 PM »

The cuts on this version will result in lots of lifted pad 101. That is why the original concept by MRA was adapted slightly by BOXXDR http://forums.xbox-scene.com/index.php?showtopic=698256

This means the cuts are further apart and reduces the risk of lifting pad 101.

The fact you are taking the drive apart and cutting tracks means it is simple enough to solder in a couple of wires/a simple switch and a resistor.

xbox360player · « **Reply #20 on:** December 22, 2009, 07:55:00 PM »

QUOTE(hetster @ Dec 22 2009, 02:25 PM)

only thing is my ck3 kit doesnt have the points..is the probe that was used for the old liteons a 3.3v source? or will i need to use a 3.3v source from the drive cable.

no, all the probes are not 3.3v source. You will need to find a 3.3 source on your ck3. If you plan to solder, then, I recommend you solder the 3.3v to an external source, e.g your PC's 3.3v, or your ck3, even a battery pak (use 2 AAA size should do the work, but make sure they share the common GND).

The key is, do not mess with your liteon pcb if possible.

QUOTE(ps2moduk @ Dec 22 2009, 04:51 PM)

2 hours (IMG:style_emoticons/default/sleeping.gif) damn you could fly through loads of drives in that time.

I hate the idea of repairing botched attempts (IMG:style_emoticons/default/mad.gif)

Also does it come with the resistor attached 22ohms?? And then when a drive wont read with 22 you have to drop down to 20 or 18 so your gonna have to get the iron out.

I seriously do not recommend unskilled people try this out unless they are prepared to kill their drive and pay a lot more to get it repaired.

Lets face it anyone who is doing bulk drives would not be using something like this it is aimed more at the one timer and for the price and the risk it is surely easier to pay someone to dump the drive for you and ask them to provide the dumped firmware for future use.

I said two hours just be on the safe side.

for changing resistors, see the pic below:

(IMG:http://www.tiaowiki.com/wiki/images/6/6c/Resistor-in-header.jpg)

just unplug the resistor and reinsert a lower value one.

terodeg · « **Reply #21 on:** December 23, 2009, 06:24:00 AM »

in realtion at the spoof metod.
how's about the inquiry key that is down the dvd key?
inquiry.bin was extracted in old mod, so i think that u should copy also the inquiry key, not only the dvd key!

newboxflash · « **Reply #22 on:** December 23, 2009, 08:07:00 AM »

cheers for the info

nice to see some alternatives on the site

keep them coming, i agree with the 2hrs wait not chance people want it doing in 10 mins like the other drives

xbox360player · « **Reply #23 on:** December 23, 2009, 06:54:00 PM »

QUOTE(newboxflash @ Dec 23 2009, 10:07 AM)

cheers for the info

nice to see some alternatives on the site
keep them coming, i agree with the 2hrs wait not chance people want it doing in 10 mins like the other drives

If you are not afraid of soldering, you can solder it as well. The difference is how many points you are going to solder on the PCB:

diygadget's method: 2 places (rejoin the via and trace)
original method: 6 places (GND, R101 via, rejoin via back to 3.3v trace, 3.3v line, point B and rejoin the trace above point (IMG:style_emoticons/default/cool.gif).

Less work on the PCB will give you less chance to mess up anything.

I mention 2 hours just to be on the safe side, in my test, it dried in 5 minutes.

(IMG:http://www.tiaowiki.com/wiki/images/thumb/d/d0/Method.advance.jpg/768px-Method.advance.jpg)

This post has been edited by xbox360player: Dec 24 2009, 02:55 AM

jackmanfred · « **Reply #24 on:** December 28, 2009, 02:35:00 PM »

Guys,

Has anybody got the kit? I've got loads of friends hassling me to mod there new elites. I managed to solder and dump mine using the og MRA method. I haven't got the time or the patients to do anymore so i want to know if i could recommend these?

Cheers

J

Takashi · « **Reply #25 on:** December 28, 2009, 02:37:00 PM »

BoxxDr's method is much much easier and safer imo.

iglitare · « **Reply #26 on:** December 28, 2009, 03:14:00 PM »

QUOTE(Takashi @ Dec 28 2009, 10:37 PM)

BoxxDr's method is much much easier and safer imo.

thats very right.
and you need to solder anyway, all this silver paste joining is crap.

you cut and resolder the traces.

xbox360player · « **Reply #27 on:** December 28, 2009, 07:32:00 PM »

I have mentioned in post #24, if you want to solder it, with diygadget's method, you only need to solder 2 points, and only need to remove paints on two points. It is the best method so far.

There's no reason to solder a wire for 3.3v from liteon PCB.
There's no reason to solder a wire for GND from liteon PCB.

You can access these from CK3. Why mess up with liteon PCB?

tjhart85 · « **Reply #28 on:** December 28, 2009, 11:54:00 PM »

I'm going to grab one of these kits since I would like the connectivity kit anyways and if I can only have to resolder 2 points instead of 6, I'm game!

syntaxerror329 · « **Reply #29 on:** December 29, 2009, 12:17:00 AM »

QUOTE(tjhart85 @ Dec 29 2009, 01:54 AM)

I'm going to grab one of these kits since I would like the connectivity kit anyways and if I can only have to resolder 2 points instead of 6, I'm game!

If you can't solder 6 what makes you think you can solder 2 ?

Author Topic: Diygadget's Solderless 83850 V2 And 93450 Key Dump (Read 1036 times)