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[xbox360player]

Thanks to MRA for the idea of dumping 83850v2 and 93450 key, original post is here.

Inspired by his great idea, I have found a way to do the trick without soldering.

(source of the tutorial)

This is the overall diagram:

(IMG:http://www.tiaowiki.com/wiki/images/thumb/1/18/83850v2.93450.sch.jpg/720px-83850v2.93450.sch.jpg)

This is the kit we are using: CK3 and Solderless Key extractor for 83850 V2 and 93450

So, in order to dump the key, you will need to make 2 cuts on the PCB, (point A and B, make sure point A is a V cut, just to isolate the via from the trace, so best to cut from the middle of trace, as shown in the above picture).  This part is relatively easy, but you better practice before you make the cut.  Use a multimeter to check if the cuts are good.  this is important.

The second part in the original instruction involves soldering the via, see below:

(IMG:http://pictures.xbox-scene.com/xbox360/lite-on/loboard.jpg)

Basically, you need to connect the top via to GND via a 22 ohm or lower resistor, and connect the bottom via to a 3.3v line.

Instead of soldering the wires to the PCB (in order to access GND and 3.3v line), you could use 3 wires, one end of the first wire permanently connect to a 3.3V pad on DVD power adapter by using an alligator, and the other end connect to a pogo pin (let's call it pogo pin B ), so you can hold it on the bottom via to make the connection, this is similar to the 73x firmware key extracting.

For the second wire, one end can permanently connect to the GND pad of DVD adapter, and the other end connect to a 22 ohm or lower resistor.  Use 3rd wire to connect the other end of the resistor, and connect other end of the 3 wire to a pogo pin, let's call it pogo pin A.

(IMG:http://www.tiaowiki.com/wiki/images/6/6c/Resistor-in-header.jpg)
(IMG:http://www.tiaowiki.com/wiki/images/9/9d/Pogo.in.jpg)
(IMG:http://www.tiaowiki.com/wiki/images/thumb/b/b7/Clip-on.jpg/469px-Clip-on.jpg)

You do not need to connect all the flat cables originally connected to your PCB in order to extract the key.  (see the pic below, the PCB is outside of the DVD housing, it is on my table).

So, you use your left hand to hold the pogo pin B on the bottom via and pogo pin A on the top via, then turn on DVD power adapter, then launch DOSFLASH or JUNGLEFLASHER.  If you see status 0x72, then, release pogo pin A from top via, then click 'Read firmware' to read the firmware and save it.  Do it multiple times to make sure it is correct.

(IMG:http://www.tiaowiki.com/wiki/images/thumb/5/5d/Liteon-touched.jpg/600px-Liteon-touched.jpg)
(IMG:http://www.tiaowiki.com/wiki/images/thumb/1/18/Release-point-a.jpg/680px-Release-point-a.jpg)

Now you have dumped the firmware.

Next step is to use Silver Conductive Glue to rejoin the cuts.  Do not use carbon based conductive glue, because they are not stick enough and it won't stay.  Give the glue a couple hours to dry.  After you done this, use a multimeter to check the trace are rejoined.   If everything is ok, replace the PCB back to the DVD housing.

(IMG:http://www.tiaowiki.com/wiki/images/1/12/Refine-glue.jpg)

to be continued...



Then next step is to spoof the firmware and flash it back to your dvd.

(IMG:http://www.tiaowiki.com/wiki/images/thumb/7/79/Dumped.firmware.loaded.jpg/675px-Dumped.firmware.loaded.jpg)
(IMG:http://www.tiaowiki.com/wiki/images/thumb/b/bf/Template.firmware.loaded.jpg/678px-Template.firmware.loaded.jpg)
(IMG:http://www.tiaowiki.com/wiki/images/9/9f/Manually.spoof.jpg)
(IMG:http://www.tiaowiki.com/wiki/images/thumb/3/37/Manual.spoofing.done.jpg/678px-Manual.spoofing.done.jpg)



Troubleshooting:

If you got status 0x80, 0x52 or 0x51, turn off your dvd power adapter for 5 seconds and turn on again, it may change to 0x72.

If the above does not work, try to replace the resistor to a lower value, e.g from 22to 20, or from 20 to 18, from 18 to 16 and try again. Do not go below 16.

If your PC freezes when you turn on your DVD power adapter, you can do it in DOS (use DOSFLASH 16bit version in DOS), or change your SATA driver to UNIATA driver as mentioned in the following tutorial and the do it again:

http://www.tiaowiki.com/w/Extracting_key%2..._PC_Freezing%29



This post has been edited by xbox360player: Dec 22 2009, 04:45 PM

[j3ll3]

thanks for increasing the amount of people ruining their 93450!  

(which will undoubtedly happen due to this tutorial; zomg solderless method i haz ruined my drive, i need to create dvd key now PLZ HELP)

but seriously, nice find, very useful

i'd rather solder tho.. if you're cutting the board, you might as well solder to it.

[Freeloo]

QUOTE(j3ll3 @ Dec 22 2009, 05:04 PM)

thanks for increasing the amount of people ruining their 93450!  (IMG:style_emoticons/default/wink.gif)

(which will undoubtedly happen due to this tutorial; zomg solderless method i haz ruined my drive, i need to create dvd key now PLZ HELP)

but seriously, nice find, very useful (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif)

i'd rather solder tho.. if you're cutting the board, you might as well solder to it.

Indeed. This is useful if someone already has a CKv3 connectivity kit and has an intense phobia of solder/irons/flux/life. But it's definitely a step in the right direction towards a method that leaves the drive completely untouched.

[Ranger72]

Nice alternate method. But looks like it would be much easier to just do it the Boxxdr Method way.

[xbox360player]

QUOTE(j3ll3 @ Dec 22 2009, 11:04 AM)

thanks for increasing the amount of people ruining their 93450!  (IMG:style_emoticons/default/wink.gif)

(which will undoubtedly happen due to this tutorial; zomg solderless method i haz ruined my drive, i need to create dvd key now PLZ HELP)

but seriously, nice find, very useful (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif)

i'd rather solder tho.. if you're cutting the board, you might as well solder to it.

Thanks :-)
yes, it is best to solder them back.  However for people are afraid of soldering and eager to get 93450 modded, this is the way to go.

Even if you plan to solder it back, this way you only need to solder two points :-) less chance to mess it up.

[syntaxerror329]

People are still going to break the pad off where you do the V cut. It can't take much force at all.
People are going to get glue from the traces to ground.
and people are going to slip while holding two probes and touch something bad.

Nothing but a attempt at making some money from something we could make our self if we really wanted.

I do like the part of the tutorial on making the custom firmware. That will be useful for newbie’s. Lots of pictures.

[iateshaggy]

i've been doing a hybrid of all of the methods.  i use mra's cuts, some of boxxdr's solders, and i made a probe from my resistor for the via pad instead of a switch.

[ps2moduk]

Props for the tutorial however i think people are more worried about cutting tracks than the actual soldering.

The soldering part is childs play to anyone who has modded a machine before, the points are literally as big as you want them to be.

Holding two probes and running the program to dump the firmware means people will get frustrated as they continuosly slip with the probes.

To be honest it actually looks more of a pain then the other 2 variations.

[drozaxx]

are we able to use the 360 xtractor pro instead of the connectivity kit v3?

[Svantesson666]

QUOTE(drozaxx @ Dec 22 2009, 07:35 PM)

are we able to use the 360 xtractor pro instead of the connectivity kit v3?

Yes you would. Just connect to 3.3V and GND on the 360 Xtractor Pro.



Nice tutorial btw even though this looks lika abit more of a fuss then soldering. Leaves almost no marks on the PCB though. Very nice and clean. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif)

[xbox360player]

QUOTE(drozaxx @ Dec 22 2009, 01:35 PM)

are we able to use the 360 xtractor pro instead of the connectivity kit v3?

As long as you have easy access to 3.3V, then you are OK.  GND should be easily accessible because the middle tWo pins of Molex are GND, or your PC case (just use a multimeter to check it).

Molex pin:

(IMG:http://img128.imageshack.us/img128/1404/molexwa3.jpg)

This post has been edited by xbox360player: Dec 22 2009, 08:01 PM

[Martinchris23]

QUOTE(ps2moduk @ Dec 22 2009, 06:33 PM)

Props for the tutorial however i think people are more worried about cutting tracks than the actual soldering.

The soldering part is childs play to anyone who has modded a machine before, the points are literally as big as you want them to be.

Holding two probes and running the program to dump the firmware means people will get frustrated as they continuosly slip with the probes.

To be honest it actually looks more of a pain then the other 2 variations.

^ This

Seriously - wait 2 hours for the conductive glue to set? Can you see ANYONE actually waiting that amount of time? What if the join bonds but there's no connectivity? It'll be no end of pain for anyone to repair it (and no doubt the people doing this will be trying to correct it themselves firstly).

Yes, soldering is cleaner - if you've got the iron out to re-join the cut tracks, you might as well solder the 2 wires and bridge too.

[hetster]

this is more like it..i was looking for something like this from the get go..boxxdr cuts using the probes from my ck3 kit..this will be much easier for me..

only thing is my ck3 kit doesnt have the points..is the probe that was used for the old liteons a 3.3v source? or will i need to use a 3.3v source from the drive cable.

This post has been edited by hetster: Dec 22 2009, 08:56 PM

[speedy2721]

Does anyone know where you can get the stuff in this picture, because they are sold out on the website.

http://www.diygadget.com/media/catalog/pro...450-600_1_1.jpg

[ps2moduk]

QUOTE(Martinchris23 @ Dec 22 2009, 09:14 PM)

^ This

Seriously - wait 2 hours for the conductive glue to set? Can you see ANYONE actually waiting that amount of time? What if the join bonds but there's no connectivity? It'll be no end of pain for anyone to repair it (and no doubt the people doing this will be trying to correct it themselves firstly).

Yes, soldering is cleaner - if you've got the iron out to re-join the cut tracks, you might as well solder the 2 wires and bridge too.

2 hours      damn you could fly through loads of drives in that time.

I hate the idea of repairing botched attempts    

Also does it come with the resistor attached 22ohms??   And then when a drive wont read with 22 you have to drop down to 20 or 18 so your gonna have to get the iron out.

I seriously do not recommend unskilled people try this out unless they are prepared to kill their drive and pay a lot more to get it repaired.

Lets face it anyone who is doing bulk drives would not be using something like this it is aimed more at the one timer and for the price and the risk it is surely easier to pay someone to dump the drive for you and ask them to provide the dumped firmware for future use.