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[Keezie]

very cool tut, i'll probably end up having to do this to get my MW2 box modded

i'm a little worried about possibly ruining my drive, thus making my xbox completely useless, but i guess i don't really have a choice

do i REALLY need this "lenline" brush?

[syntaxerror329]

QUOTE(Keezie @ Dec 6 2009, 07:08 PM)

do i REALLY need this "lenline" brush?

The other option is you get a popsicle stick and coat part of the thin edge of it in white glue. Cut a equally thin stripe of 400-600 grit sandpaper and glue it to the side of the popsicle stick and you now have a very fine sanding tool to remove the laminate.

But if you want a proffesional job get the lenline brush!

[DeXteR_CwB]

[mksoftware]

QUOTE(syntaxerror329 @ Dec 7 2009, 06:02 AM)

The other option is you get a popsicle stick and coat part of the thin edge of it in white glue. Cut a equally thin stripe of 400-600 grit sandpaper and glue it to the side of the popsicle stick and you now have a very fine sanding tool to remove the laminate.

But if you want a proffesional job get the lenline brush!

Anyone from the Netherlands knows a nice shop where to get the Resistor + Switch? The Techshop where I used to get my stuff seems to be out of town and I have another Xbox here which wants Ixtreme really bad .

[Maximize]

ok I just did this with dosflash method dos got 0x52 with 22ohm, then right on the money with 20ohm

I opened it up as target in JF 0.1.66 and it says I have a 74850c, Is this correct?  I know the sticker on the backside of the pcb says 93 V2

I guess I got more reading to do before I test with a 74 or 83 I have lying around

[syntaxerror329]

QUOTE(Maximize @ Dec 7 2009, 01:09 PM)

ok I just did this with dosflash method dos got 0x52 with 22ohm, then right on the money with 20ohm

I opened it up as target in JF 0.1.66 and it says I have a 74850c, Is this correct?  I know the sticker on the backside of the pcb says 93 V2

I guess I got more reading to do before I test with a 74 or 83 I have lying around

Thank you for bringing this up. I too have got 0x52 a few times. I just keep retrying and it works eventually.
It sounds like 22ohm might not always have enough power to pull down the voltage far enough. So to save everyone two trips or two orders from thier electronics supplier everyone should get both a 22 and a 20 ohm resistor. If enough people tell me that 20ohm works better then i will update the information in my picture tutorial.

Yes, it is correct for JF to report your 93xxx drive as a 74. The firmware is so similar that it doesn't know the difference. I am certain when the next release of JF comes out this will be fixed.

[Maximize]

yeah I bought 2 switches, and the 2 different resistors and a bread board to get them both set up on before starting.  It worked like a charm and flawlessly, thanks to all you guys hard work, but I hope a easier method comes around

and I figured out the firmware modifcation part of it  xbins has the firmware templates

good luck everybody

and thanks for this easier, cleaner method


guys please use a old 73 or 84 to test with!!!

This post has been edited by Maximize: Dec 7 2009, 08:09 PM

[wiebel]

So, I'm kinda new to this soldering stuff. This tut sure looks very promising!
However i'm not really certain about all this, if i understand it correctly:

- The grnd just goes to a random place at the pcb?
- the flux/solder actually 'touches' pad 101?

Thanks in advance

(Edit: and where do i get these 'lenline' brushes? What are they called for looking up in a search engine?)

[syntaxerror329]

QUOTE(wiebel @ Dec 7 2009, 02:59 PM)

So, I'm kinda new to this soldering stuff. This tut sure looks very promising!
However i'm not really certain about all this, if i understand it correctly:

- The grnd just goes to a random place at the pcb?
- the flux/solder actually 'touches' pad 101?

Thanks in advance

(Edit: and where do i get these 'lenline' brushes? What are they called for looking up in a search engine?)

For the ground point take a look in picture 2. See where i polished the board with my lenline brush. That entire area is ground. MRA's diagram tells you to put it on a tiny pad and that is so much harder and pointless. Most large unused area's of this circuit board are ground.  

The solder does not need to touch pad101. I suggest you avoid the pad because it can be damaged easy. This is why i have you make two cuts about a cm away from the pad so that you can solder to the much more sturdy trace.

I have suggested a good vendor to get the lenline brushes from in Post # 11
If they don't have the exact model i used in stock then ask them for a lenline slimline.

Good luck!

[Svantesson666]

First thanks for this method.

I did my first LiteOn today. But I didn't need to click the intro button twice. I got the full chip info and status 0x72 the very first time. And it read out the firmware just fine.
I did need to power cycle the drive a couple of times though to actually get 0x72, as it kept ending up in 0x52 all the time. But once I got 0x72 I got the chip info as well.

And for the record I have read the firmware of a LiteOn 74850c, with iXtreme 1.6 on it, in JungleFlasher using Windows 7 and a VIA 6421A SATA card.

Am I the only one that doesn't need to click it twice?

This post has been edited by Svantesson666: Dec 7 2009, 11:15 PM

[syntaxerror329]

QUOTE(Svantesson666 @ Dec 7 2009, 04:40 PM)

First thanks for this method.

I did my first LiteOn today. But I don't need to click the intro button twice. I get the full chip info and status 0x72 the very first time. And it reads out the firmware just fine.
I do need to power cycle the drive a couple of times though to actually get 0x72, as it keeps ending up in 0x52 all the time. But once I get 0x72 I get the chip info as well.

And for the record I have read the firmware of a LiteOn 74850c, with iXtreme 1.6 on it, in JungleFlasher using Windows 7 and a VIA 6421A SATA card.

Am I the only one that doesn't need to click it twice?

You only need to do the intro twice trick if you happen to have a winbond type flash in your lite-on. There is no way to tell if you have a winbond other then if you get status 72 and get unknown flash.

As for you getting status 52 a few times it has happened to me too. What i would like everyone to do is try a 20ohm 1/4 watt resisitor and see if they get 72 everytime.

[Svantesson666]

QUOTE(syntaxerror329 @ Dec 7 2009, 11:01 PM)

You only need to do the intro twice trick if you happen to have a winbond type flash in your lite-on. There is no way to tell if you have a winbond other then if you get status 72 and get unknown flash.

As for you getting status 52 a few times it has happened to me too. What i would like everyone to do is try a 20ohm 1/4 watt resisitor and see if they get 72 everytime.

I got 0x72 everytime after I put a little pressure on the "Pad 101 via" (as I soldered there) using my index finger. Of course doing that would make no sense if you soldered elsewhere.

[rusky5978]

It is astonishing how we got to EXACTLY the same schematics for the dump.

http://www.elotrolado.net/hilo_tutorial-du...140#p1718301152

thats my post in spanish and the schematics are exactly the same, impresive, at least I didnt present it as MY

method since somebody else did the research(I would love to say thanks in my post to the ORIGINAL author)

[arielzadi]

i just got my hands on another xbox arcade with the liteon 93 series and i have decided to try to dump it again
This time i want to be prepaird so my main q is what homemade tool can i use to expose the soldering points without damaging them like the lenline brush and how to efficently cut the traces without damaging them
Sorry about the bad english

[saleem_hacks_360s]

thanks for the share!

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i just tried it on my 74850 (pre flashed) though i had cut the tracks the way that was shown by mrn,i will try your method next time (perhaps)

i found an old switch off an arcade cab and used that at first and got no joy in dosflash or jungleflasher.

i removed it and just hooked the wires for a switch and used jungleflasher,sure enough status 72 and unknow flash type,unhooked them and intro'd again and it showed the spi details.

i used some conductive ink when i was ready to put everything back together (joining traces/vias)but,was getting flashing light or no eject,i cleaned it all away and tried bridging with solder and it worked fine.

just waiting now for a customer to bring me a 83850v2 or 93450 drive when they bring one,cant tell from day to day what they are,only ever seen 1 83850v2 and 1 935450.

all the same,thanks,i will try this out i think at some point.

to to round off,yes it will work on 74850 like its been stated in many places.i found jungleflasher was the app to use.



@arielzadi:

use a fibre glass pen and i find a very fine hobby knife handy also (for cutting tracks) flux and a low wattage soldering iron (i used a 12w)

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This post has been edited by saleem_hacks_360s: Dec 8 2009, 07:09 PM