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[thesonandheir]

QUOTE(hoops10 @ Mar 11 2010, 03:15 AM)

In that pic you linked to, where does the j2d2.2 wire go to?  It looks like it goes into a hole on the left but then what is the other side of the wire soldered to?

Also, when you say to lay a thin wire across df1b1, you mean a bare wire over it and then put a small bit of solder on it?  I'm not sure what you mean by that.  Thanks.

The RF connector point under the board, like you soldered to before.

[Martinchris23]

That's pretty much how I do it, but I use the underside of the board as both points can be gotten from there. I heatshrink tube the diodes to prevent shorts. I also use R2P12 instead of the RF point as there's no need to trail a wire right across the board:



NOT for N00bs!

Rather than pushing the whole length of a diode leg through, pre-cut it to about 0.5cm and pre solder both holes. Just melt the solder and pop the shortened leg in place, leaving about 2mm to flatten the diode afterwards. You can now snip the other end of the diode and solder a wire to it. It's helpful this way as the board will hold the diode in place while you solder to it.

[Martinchris23]

QUOTE(hoops10 @ Mar 11 2010, 11:37 AM)

That is not the pt that I used before.  I followed this pic:

http://forums.xbox-s...howtopic=702292

If you go all the way to the bottom, there is a better pic to follow.  When I first did it, I did all three pts on the bottom of the board according to the above pic.  Got the e79 and 1033 error.  Then I left the yellow wire on the bottom of the board and moved the red and blue wires on top of the board.  What do you think?

No, as I said the image was just to show a closer alt point. BTW the OP did the diodes the wrong way - not the orientation, but far better to solder the diodes to the holes and use wires to go to the smaller points (as suggested already).

The image posted by DarkFib3r is spot on too, however you didn't solder the diodes in the same way (not that it matters).

What value diodes are you using BTW?

[Martinchris23]

QUOTE(hoops10 @ Mar 11 2010, 08:30 PM)

The type of diodes I am using I used when I did my xenon too, there are the 1n4148 diodes.  So how do you suggest I do the jtag wires this time?  All of top, all on bottom?  Thanks.

As long as you solder them the right way and without causing any bridges, it doesn't matter. I do the underside as there's more room to work

[Martinchris23]

You can mix and match so use whatever points you're more comfortable with.

[hoops10]

Ok, been trying to get db1f1 to hold solder but no love, been trying for hours.  Tried laying a thin bare wire over it and puting a small amount of solder on it but nothing.  The solder just won't stick to the point, even tried using flux.  I also tried getting a wire to connect to the db1f1 pt but nothing, i mean nothing sticks to it.  Any ideas?

[thesonandheir]

I think some guys have had sucess by GENTLY scraping around the point, seeing copper, then soldering.


Honestly mate, my Jasper JTAG has like 1 strand of CAT5e going from db1f1 to J2D2, thats how thin a wire we are talking.

[hoops10]

Had to stop last night, spent hrs trying to get the db1f1, but no dice.  It seemed easier to solder the diode to it last time.  Are there any other alt. pts. other than the fu1u1 (or something like that) on the bottom?  I worry about scraping around the db1f1 because I read that it can cause a short if not done right.

[hoops10]

Has anyone seen the alt db1f1 point talked about here:  http://www.xboxhacke...?topic=13097.60

People on there said it would work for a falcon.  What do you think?

[thesonandheir]

never used it mate so i cant really comment. DB1F1 has always worked for me. Whats ur location btw?

[Martinchris23]

Dude - these points aren't difficult if you can solder.

If you can't solder or don't have the tools to do the job right, get it to someone who can.

[thwack]

Seconded - if you can't solder get someone else to do it - and if you can't solder, don't even try the R2P12 ressy solder point - if you mess up that ressy your 360 will still boot, but with no ROL......

[hoops10]

I finally gave up trying to get db1f1 to work, solder just won't stick to that point.  I have read that many others have had the same problem too so I don't feel bad.  Any way I used the alt point in the link above and it worked like a charm.  XBR is up and running.  Thanks for all the help.

[mrjefferson]

@ hoops10

I'm having the same exact problem as you. I've been getting alot of help here but still no luck. I have a falcon with CB 5761 and I'm getting the same errors as you. I can tell you what I have found so far. The reason your orginal nand wouldn't boot the first time you flashed it back is becase some thing was changed in the jtag wiring beween dumping you orginal nand, then putting it back on. In other words. I get different nand dumps depending on how the jtag is wired (resistor or wire).  Interesting thing is, is that both dumps will boot orginal dash as long as the wiring is the same as when you dumped it. If you take a dump with a 330 resistor in place, then replace it with a straight wire you will not boot when you put the orginal back on.

Before anyone asks, I'm using the Xellous guide on this site and using reverse jtag method. My jtag wiring is correct, I'm not checking it again. Not being rude, I just know it is ok! I have no bad blocks and matching nand dumps.  :

I know this doesn't help us with our problem but it may give someone some insight. I'm starting to think that CB 5761 has either jtag/flashing issues. I've just seen lots of posts like this about Falcon CB 5761.  I really hope we can get this figured out. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif)

Oops, just noticed you fixed your problem. I'll try it........but I don't think it'll fix mine.

This post has been edited by mrjefferson: Mar 15 2010, 12:34 PM

[FUCKMICROSOFT]

hi i dont mean to hijack this thread but my xenon xbox has the same problem now too, after i booted up halo1 after flashing successfully freeboot 0.32 to my jtaged xbox.  I'm getting a single ring e79 1033 error no matter what i do, ive checked and rechecked every diode direction and solder point.  I tried reflashing my freeboot nand image again via lpt, no good.  I'm currently flashing back the stock nand in an attempt to isolate whether or not it is a jtag wiring error.  The only thing i can think of besides a missing xam.xex is that is it possible that two soldered joints are shorting against the underside of the board? i will check with my multimeter however it is not with me right now.