Print

[Martinchris23]

QUOTE(hoops10 @ Mar 8 2010, 09:56 PM)

I am gonna post some pics of my jtag wiring ASAP.  I am using LPT and the cable is about 10" or 11".  Degraded said that the CB was exploitable.  I have flashed the nand and re-read it and it's identical.  I am worried about removing the diode from the DB1F1 pt as I know its a difficult pt to do.  Would the diode being soldered directly to the DB1F1 pt be the problem?

Post a screenshot of Degraded. Your wiring looks ok but soldering diodes directly to the points is really not a good idea. I took photos of a JTAG Xenon install and whilst it's not using the same points as the Falcon, the principle should remain the same.

http://img52.imagesh.../img4559vd.jpg/

Solder the diodes into the actual holes and solder thin wire from it to the smaller points.

The next time I do a Falcon/Jasper I'll take photos and post them too.

[thesonandheir]

Have you tried with the resistor away? I havent used one yet and I have done about 6 JTAGs

[Martinchris23]

QUOTE(thesonandheir @ Mar 9 2010, 10:43 AM)

Have you tried with the resistor away? I havent used one yet and I have done about 6 JTAGs

I've had to use a 22Ohm resistor on a couple of 360s since they randomly RRoD'd (false positive tho as rebooting sorted it). Once I fitted the resistor they were fine.

[Martinchris23]

QUOTE(hoops10 @ Mar 9 2010, 11:32 AM)

I have tried without the resistor, and the 360 won't boot.  I will try a 220 ohm resistor and a 330 ohm resistor to see if they work.  Did you use a 0.25 watt or 0.50 watt resistor?  Right now I have a 0.25 watt 100 ohm resistor on there now.

So if you just bridge points 3 and 7 with wire it doesn't boot at all? Sounds like there's more to this ...

Upload a screenshot of Degraded if you can.

[thesonandheir]

Right, best thing to do here is start from scratch. Remove the JTAGs (you could prob just unsolder the resistor for now) and flash back original image. See if it boots.

If it does, then apply the JTAGS again. Do what Martin said, stand the board on its side and apply your iron to the points on the underside of the board. Push the diode legs through and cut off any excess. Then solder a thin wire to DB1F1, hot glue it down somewhere nearby (not on the point itself!). Solder a wire to the RF connector under the board.

Joint your wires to the diode legs. Flash back XBR image.
Hope that works m8.

[Martinchris23]

QUOTE(hoops10 @ Mar 9 2010, 08:59 PM)

Here is the Degraded screenshot:

http://www.imagebam..../9ff5a371328217

What about changing the resistor on the bridge wire?  220 or 330 ohm but what wattage?  0.25 watt or 0.50 watt?  If I don't put a resistor on and just use a wire, it just hangs when turning it on (little green light comes on but nothing happens).

Having a wire in place should NOT cause it to hang. This may be an indication of either a bridge somewhere or a bad write. Can you at least boot to XeLL?

[jonnyg56]

QUOTE(hoops10 @ Mar 7 2010, 09:59 PM)

Please help, I am desperate.  Right now I have a e79 error and 1033 secondary error (1 rrod).  I have reflashed the nand multiple times.  Here is the situation:  It's a Falcon board with an exploitable kernal.  When I read the nand, I kept getting 1 bad block in the same address.  So I got xbr and used bad block remapper and remapped the bad block successfully.  I then injected the kv and config and then flashed (I also tried by flashing the xbr first, then injecting kv and config straight thru the lpt.)

I re-read the nand to make sure the flash was good and it was identical.  But when I turn in on I get e79 with a secondary code of 1033.  I checked all the jtag wires and they are good.  Two switching diodes attached to the board and then a 0.25 watt resistor on the 3rd jtag wire (needed it or xbox won't boot.)

Any ideas what I can do?  I have tried unplugging the fans and let it 2 rrod on me because I read that 1033 can be a cpu/gpu problem.  But the xbox was working before I did the jtag.  Any idea what the problem could be?  Thanks.

I had a Falcon just like this, i new my wiring and components were good even though i removed and resoldered a couple of times to make sure....

What worked for me was to start from scratch and go through the flashing process but dont flash the config over.

Erased the nand: NandPro.exe lpt: -e16 0x000000
Flashed XeLLous  (Free60)/ xell + kv
Injected Xbr
Injected kv only no config

[hoops10]

Do you think this would work:  

nandpro  lpt: -e16 (Do I need the 0x000000?  I have erased the nand before with just nandpro lpt: -e16)
remap bad block in xbr (using bad block mover)
flash over xbr with:  nandpro lpt: -w16 xbr.bin
inject kv with:  nandpro lpt: -w16 kv.bin 1 1

I ask about this because I no experience with flashing xellous first, then injecting xbr (didn't even know you can inject xbr).

[thesonandheir]

QUOTE(hoops10 @ Mar 10 2010, 12:09 AM)

Do you think this would work:  

nandpro  lpt: -e16 (Do I need the 0x000000?  I have erased the nand before with just nandpro lpt: -e16)
remap bad block in xbr (using bad block mover)
flash over xbr with:  nandpro lpt: -w16 xbr.bin
inject kv with:  nandpro lpt: -w16 kv.bin 1 1

I ask about this because I no experience with flashing xellous first, then injecting xbr (didn't even know you can inject xbr).

try it.


erase nand, flash xellous on its own. If it boots you can flash the rest from ur browser

[Martinchris23]

Work backwards as already suggested. Remove all soldering and inspect the areas to make sure nothing is being bridged. Flash back the original NAND and get it working again as stock.

[hoops10]

When removing all wires, do you think I can just remove the wire connected to the db1f1 pt and leave the diode soldered to it?  It's a big risk trying to unsolder the diode and maybe messing up db1f1.

[thesonandheir]

QUOTE(hoops10 @ Mar 10 2010, 12:14 PM)

When removing all wires, do you think I can just remove the wire connected to the db1f1 pt and leave the diode soldered to it?  It's a big risk trying to unsolder the diode and maybe messing up db1f1.

You could try it. You do have an alternative to DB1F1 if it goes tits up tho but its under the board.

[Martinchris23]

As long as the diode is detached, it won't be part of the circuit so you could effectively leave it in place.

[thesonandheir]

QUOTE(hoops10 @ Mar 11 2010, 01:16 AM)

Ok, removed all jtag wires and reflashed back the orig nand.  Good news, the xbox boots to the dash and everything is good.  Now what do you suggest?  Resolder all the jtag wires and reflash?  BTW, should I use the bottom of the board again for the alt. j2d2.2 pt (instead of running a wire all the way to the RF board)?  When I was taking the jtag wires off, the diode came off the db1f1 pt too (but didn't lift the pad off).  Should I solder the diode to the J2D2.1 pt and then a wire to the db1f1 pt?  What else do you suggest?  Thanks again for all the help from all.

Ok, great. The box boots, that means we know its the JTAG wires. With the mobo out and on its side, apply soldering iron to the back of your points (J2D2) and from the front just push the diode legs thru the holes.  Cut off any excess diode leg stiucking thru.

Then lay a THIN wire over db1f1, stick it with a tad of solder. Hot glue it down somewhere nearby so it wont move (but DONT cover the point).

Redo the wire from the bottom of the board. Solder the wires to the relative diode legs.

Remake the small j2d2 link.


Try XBR again

[thesonandheir]

http://forums.xbox-s...hp/t703357.html

theres a pic on there of how to do it