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[Midnight Tboy]

Hiya,

ok so I've decided to have a bash at jtagging one of my old consoles.  It's an old xenon 2006 non-hdmi Pro console that hasn't been used for nearly a year so should definately be jtaggable.

I've been looking around at the various guides etc and think I'm pretty confident at having a go at it....as once I know I have the right stuff - it looks easy-ish.  Its just I have an irrational fear of soldering irons lol

I've been trying to find a site here in UK that I can ideally order all parts from online for delivery.....but thought I could take a drive to Maplins if can find the correct equipment and maybe have a go at it this weekend.

Can I check I've picked the right stuff?

1.  Resistors - can't seem to find them by themselves on the site - but suppose pack will come in handy - http://maplin.co.uk/Module.aspx?ModuleNo=42453

2.  switching diode 1N4148 http://maplin.co.uk/Module.aspx?ModuleNo=46386

3.  solder - http://maplin.co.uk/Module.aspx?ModuleNo=2819 - or am I better off with the silver stuff? http://maplin.co.uk/Module.aspx?ModuleNo=34965

4.  D-Sub connector http://maplin.co.uk/Module.aspx?ModuleNo=1113 - Is it YQ48C or YQ49D I need?

5.  Wire....would this be the best gauge of wire to use?  http://maplin.co.uk/Module.aspx?ModuleNo=6198

A couple of other questions.

6.  This looks like the soldering iron I may have bought a cpl of years ago.  I've never used it yet lol.  http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Soldering-Iron-Kit-3...=item3359214b9c or very near identical looking at least.  Do you think its up to the job?  The tip seems quite fine - but dont know how fine it needs to be (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif)  It looks like the tip can unscrew to be replaced if a replacement head would likely be needed?  The tip looks like its about this size http://maplin.co.uk/images/full/n11by.jpg

7.  Another guide elsewhere mentioned the need for Rosin Flux.  I presume thats this.  http://www.maplin.co.uk/module.aspx?moduleno=33850 .  Is it worth getting and using too? Not that I know what its for lol

Anything else I've missed?

This is the guide I was planning to follow http://www.ep-comps.com/free60/diagrams&am...ack_english.pdf  (albeit using the latest software versions where available) - but I see other guides talk about soldering to the reverse and such.  Its hard to find the best starting point with information sometimes becoming outdated quickly.

[luke.luke1]

I'm in UK and in the process of starting this too, once I find a Jtagable console  

I was about to go looking for this exact info! Great to find someone in the same boat. If anyone can shed some light on this I would also be greatful.

Please keep us updated Midnight Tboy on the parts you eventually purchase and where you get them from.

Cheers and Good Luck!

[dpbmt]

all the parts are fine, you need YQ48C (db25 plug - probably wanna pick one of these up too-- http://maplin.co.uk/...?ModuleNo=1671) and get this wire instead -- http://maplin.co.uk/...spx?moduleno=29  or look on ebay for some 30 awg wire since the maplins stuff is stranded

guide i followed

http://forums.xbox-s...howtopic=700442

[Midnight Tboy]

thanks dpbmt.

What is the D-Type box for?  Is that for if I decide to go down the RJ45 port on the side route?  As I've only seen that used so far on the pics for that?

And cheers then I'll get that cable instead at maplins (or look for ebay alternatives as can't go out yet cos waiting for delivery anyway )

[dpbmt]

it just holds the db25 plug inside , makes life a lot easier plugging and unpluggin the thing to your pc

[Midnight Tboy]

ah good point thanks

[Midnight Tboy]

could I ask a probably daft question..

why would the 30 awg wire be preferred to the 'stranded wire' that maplin sell?   More prone for errors with stranded?

also....if I remember rightly I think may have read somewhere someone say to just use IDE cable wire.....or ethernet cable wire (stripped down of course)  Are these cables preferred?

[dpbmt]

think so ye  

you can get away with strippin an ide cable, i used one for the jtag wiring on mine and it works fine

[Midnight Tboy]

typical.....I just checked and in my last spring clean must have thrown dozens of IDE cables away.

I do have a single FDD cable though lol...and hundreds of ethernet cables  Are stripped ethernet cables good to use?  Could always get hold of plenty IDE cables from work I suspect tho if look about.

Do you think I may need to get a 15w solder iron...or would a 30w be fine?

I also found a couple of regular printer cables.  Obviously DB25 Male on one end, other end being the end that wider end goes to printer (what its called I dont know )  Suppose I could just chop that to bits too.  Presuming I can get to the end where the pins are connected ok for putting the resistors on

[dpbmt]

them cable/s will be fine to use, but if you can strip an old printer cable down then thats half the job done for ya  

make sure you keep it short as possible , say 8-10 inches.

soldering iron will be fine, i got one of them cheap ebay jobbys and its done me well over the past 3-4 years, you may wanna get a finer tip though.

[Midnight Tboy]

well I've just snipped the printer end of the cable off, and dismantled the lpt end so can see the wires.

Obv the orig cable has about 20 or so wires running down the length.  There is also a thicker black wire which I presume is some sort of earth....though I cant see it on the other end of the cable where I snipped.

In a little while I'm going to have a practice desoldering and soldering a couple of these back on.

There is some duplicates in the colouring of the existing wires.  Suppose I could in theory use these same cables that are already connected?  And use a multimeter to tell which of the duplicate colours are which?

Do the resistors need to be directly attached to the lpt head..or could they go on the other end of needs be?  as that would save resoldering at the point of the head and only the bum end to worry about once seperated the junk wires

[dpbmt]

as you can see the wires in the plug housing, remove the ones that are'nt needed then its down to a process of elimination with your multimeter

resistors need to be on the plug end

[Midnight Tboy]

ok thanks

I'm nearly out of questions now .... honest

Now that I know I have suitable wire, lpt and solder....

and theres no chance of me getting to Maplins now anyway.

http://cgi.ebay.co.u...=item20aea3526d

Are these suitable?  I see some ebay different 1N4148 listings have different ma and voltages etc associated with them such as 200ma vs 450ma ...but I presume they will all work?

These ones are alternatives  http://cgi.ebay.co.u...=item2a0398a3ad

I THINK they're 'switching' diodes too.

And likewise  

http://cgi.ebay.co.u...=item2a03c464f7

Is 1% tolerance ok or do they need to be 5% tolerance?

[dpbmt]

1st link should be fine

[TK-101]

I didn't use diodes and I soldered my resistors onto the board and everything worked fine for me. Maplin do single resistors but u hav 2 go in store for them.