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[Wilhelm_I]

QUOTE(jimwross @ Apr 11 2008, 09:34 PM)

You just need the temp to get hot enough to melt the solder points, mine has two settings, both work, you just have to be careful to keep the gun moving so it doesnt burn the board / other parts.

I fixed my second 360 using this method it works very well
I started using my heatgun with the lowest step which is around 300°C to "warm" it up...
After like a minute I switched to 500°C and did this another 2-3 minutes
When you see the capacitors shaking you can decrease the temperature to 300°C and let it cool down for half an hour.
After it cooled down the solder of the area looked a bit different it had a yellow/golden shine
I did this twice once for the upper side and after cooling down the bottom...
360 works flawless, I will keep you updated

[Rustmonkey]

QUOTE(Wilhelm_I @ Apr 12 2008, 03:02 AM)

I fixed my second 360 using this method it works very well
I started using my heatgun with the lowest step which is around 300°C to "warm" it up...
After like a minute I switched to 500°C and did this another 2-3 minutes
When you see the capacitors shaking you can decrease the temperature to 300°C and let it cool down for half an hour.
After it cooled down the solder of the area looked a bit different it had a yellow/golden shine
I did this twice once for the upper side and after cooling down the bottom...
360 works flawless, I will keep you updated

Wow, if your solder turned yellow, you probabley heated it too much - solder will still conduct in this state, but it is inhibitted somewhat... just my two cents...

On a side note, I just performed this fix today after figuring out some of it on my own... wish the SEARCH function of this forum would work decently...  But thanks for the write up on the tutorial!

[Wilhelm_I]

QUOTE(Rustmonkey @ Apr 12 2008, 11:36 PM)

Wow, if your solder turned yellow, you probabley heated it too much - solder will still conduct in this state, but it is inhibitted somewhat... just my two cents...

On a side note, I just performed this fix today after figuring out some of it on my own... wish the SEARCH function of this forum would work decently...  But thanks for the write up on the tutorial!

I just wanted to make sure that everything was liquified.
However it is quite hard to figure it out as you dont really see it when it does, the only sign is that the capacitors either start smoking or that the capacitor shakes when you move the heatgun.
This xbox was a quite hopeless one anyway so I didnt really have anymore I could do besides the oven trick but now it is working and will hopefully never die again

[Boobers]

QUOTE(Wilhelm_I @ Apr 12 2008, 05:02 AM)

I fixed my second 360 using this method it works very well
I started using my heatgun with the lowest step which is around 300°C to "warm" it up...
After like a minute I switched to 500°C and did this another 2-3 minutes
When you see the capacitors shaking you can decrease the temperature to 300°C and let it cool down for half an hour.
After it cooled down the solder of the area looked a bit different it had a yellow/golden shine
I did this twice once for the upper side and after cooling down the bottom...
360 works flawless, I will keep you updated

The caps started "shaking"

That's my biggest issue with the Heat Gun.. I never know how much is enough.  I am always worried about frying something, so I am pretty sure I use it too little..

What I have done is to use my heat gun (WAGNER Model #0283015 one setting  ON) about an inch or so off the  MB, using circular motions and concentrating on the selected area of the MB (NIC area for E-73, Ana/GPU for E-74, etc etc)..

But it has never fixed the problem..

So, you say I should look for the caps to start "shaking".. Could you give me a bit more detail??

Thanx


B

[Wilhelm_I]

QUOTE(Boobers @ Apr 13 2008, 12:34 AM)

The caps started "shaking"

That's my biggest issue with the Heat Gun.. I never know how much is enough.  I am always worried about frying something, so I am pretty sure I use it too little..

What I have done is to use my heat gun (WAGNER Model #0283015 one setting  ON) about an inch or so off the  MB, using circular motions and concentrating on the selected area of the MB (NIC area for E-73, Ana/GPU for E-74, etc etc)..

But it has never fixed the problem..

So, you say I should look for the caps to start "shaking".. Could you give me a bit more detail??

Thanx
B

I used the heatgun in the same way as you but I warmed it up with the first setting and switched then to the second(500°C)
Well when the solder melted the capacitor is kind of swimming in the solder and as you are moving the heatgun around the whole time it kind of vibrates and slowly moves a bit because of the airflow.
You can compare it to a ripple of water when you blow at it...
You gotta stop then because otherwise it might move too far and then you will have to put it back in place...
it really takes a while so be patient and keep watching the bigger capacitors...
I guess I overdid it though because the color of the solder changed so be careful.
When I get my next E74 I will record a video...
The area depends as well putting pressure on the ana-chip fixed my first 360 so I concentrated on the ana-chip which fixed it.
This one was different though nothing brought it back to life so I heatgunned the area from the whole anachip over to the GPU from both sides.
After that it worked finally

[Rustmonkey]

QUOTE(Wilhelm_I @ Apr 12 2008, 06:58 PM)

I used the heatgun in the same way as you but I warmed it up with the first setting and switched then to the second(500°C)
Well when the solder melted the capacitor is kind of swimming in the solder and as you are moving the heatgun around the whole time it kind of vibrates and slowly moves a bit because of the airflow.
You can compare it to a ripple of water when you blow at it...
You gotta stop then because otherwise it might move too far and then you will have to put it back in place...
it really takes a while so be patient and keep watching the bigger capacitors...
I guess I overdid it though because the color of the solder changed so be careful.
When I get my next E74 I will record a video...
The area depends as well putting pressure on the ana-chip fixed my first 360 so I concentrated on the ana-chip which fixed it.
This one was different though nothing brought it back to life so I heatgunned the area from the whole anachip over to the GPU from both sides.
After that it worked finally

That's essentially what I did - I heated the ANA chip and both side of the GPU, using circular motions about an inch or two off the board.  I used alot higher setting than you guys did however - my heat gun goes anywhere from 300 - 1350C - I switched mine to the 1200 setting and only hit my board with it for about 1 minute total time between both sides of the GPU and the ANA chip - make sure to KEEP THE GUN moving or else stuff will fry - I never waited to 'see' the solder melt, I just assumed it would and that 1 minute at that high of a setting would be more than enough.

My settings may have been overkill, but you want solder to only be heated for a small amount of time or the discoloration will occur, so I pretty much just guaranteed that I could bring it up to melting temp very quickly.

...again, just my two cents.

Good luck everyone!

[brandogg]

1350C?! That's insane! That kind of heat would destroy just about anything in it's path. Anyway, make sure you cover all the capacitors, eject/sync buttons, fan header, etc, with several layers of aluminum foil.

[Rustmonkey]

QUOTE(brandogg @ Apr 12 2008, 11:26 PM)

1350C?! That's insane! That kind of heat would destroy just about anything in it's path. Anyway, make sure you cover all the capacitors, eject/sync buttons, fan header, etc, with several layers of aluminum foil.

Yeah that sounds outrageous doesn't it?  I was in a hurry typing yesterday - I meant 1350F (which I believe is something like 732C or somethin like that).  If it was 1350C the gun would more than likely melt in my hand and cause me to spontaneously combust So the 1200F setting is about 648C.

Sorry for the typo

[wllazer17]

I told my brother how to do this over the phone to fix his xbox.

It already had the xclamp mod that I did to it... So took off the heatsink of the gpu and tin foiled around everything except the blue area in jimwross' picture below:

(IMG:http://www.mplsgaming.com/tutorials/360/e74/CIMG2769.jpg)

He had an old heat gun that only had low or high setting so I told him use low.

He heated in circular motions around the blue but focused most of the time on the red square, all for a total of 3 mins.  Hooked it back up after an hour and it works!  Did not need to heat the top.

Thanks everyone I think this is the best fix for E74 errors!!!  Hairdryer on ana chip is only temp fix

If I did it I would have taken pictures but I only told how to do it over the phone so I don't have any, sorry.  (IMG:style_emoticons/default/sad.gif)

This post has been edited by wllazer17: Apr 13 2008, 08:28 PM

[ghettoc401]

Does anyone know if this will work for error codes like 0020?  In theory it should work since blasting the bottom of the board with the heat gun would reball the solder, but has anyone used this tutorial for any other general 3RLOD error codes?

[jimwross]

QUOTE(wllazer17 @ Apr 13 2008, 02:49 PM)

I told my brother how to do this over the phone to fix his xbox.

It already had the xclamp mod that I did to it... So took off the heatsink of the gpu and tin foiled around everything except the blue area in jimwross' picture below:

(IMG:http://www.mplsgaming.com/tutorials/360/e74/CIMG2769.jpg)

He had an old heat gun that only had low or high setting so I told him use low.

He heated in circular motions around the blue but focused most of the time on the red square, all for a total of 3 mins.  Hooked it back up after an hour and it works!  Did not need to heat the top.

Thanks everyone I think this is the best fix for E74 errors!!!  Hairdryer on ana chip is only temp fix

If I did it I would have taken pictures but I only told how to do it over the phone so I don't have any, sorry.  (IMG:style_emoticons/default/sad.gif)

Great man, I'm glad to hear it worked out for you!  It is so frusterating that theres no other information out there on how to fix this problem :-)

[brandogg]

The heat gun permanently (Okay it's been about 3 months so far) fixed my 0020, 0102, E74 (occasional) and "no video" errors.

[ghettoc401]

QUOTE(brandogg @ Apr 13 2008, 10:14 PM)

The heat gun permanently (Okay it's been about 3 months so far) fixed my 0020...

I have that error code and I cant seem to get rid of it with the x-clamp or the penny fix. How did you go about using your heat gun on your 0020 360?

[jimwross]

QUOTE(ghettoc401 @ Apr 14 2008, 12:13 AM)

I have that error code and I cant seem to get rid of it with the x-clamp or the penny fix. How did you go about using your heat gun on your 0020 360?

Use the same process outlined above.

[xolejh]

Hello everybody.  A few days ago I was playing and everything looked...not fuzzy, but choppy...not sure how to describe it.  A day after that I got the E74 error, and my next few tries turning it on kept turning up the E74 error.  Then, something else happened, it would start up like normal, but with a blank screen.  After about 30 seconds, the fan would get louder, and louder, and louder, until the xbox over heated and the fan shut off(which doesn't make sense really...that should be when the fan gets louder) and then the only thing to do was turn it off and google the problem.  Would this possibly fix that? or should I get a new AV cable or something?  SHould I try the RROD fix?(already done it once before a few months ago actually)