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[Wilhelm_I]

QUOTE(Mr. Happy @ May 21 2008, 04:06 AM)

1. Test the console on the same TV at the same resolution using different AV cables ...DID THIS, DIDNT WORK...

2. Test the console on a different TV with the Same cables running at the same resolution...DID THIS, DIDNT WORK EITHER...

3. Test a different Xbox 360 on the same TV with the Same cables...DID THIS, THE OTHER 360 WORKED PERFECT WITH THE SAME CABLES...

I tried the steps suggested in the "Sticky", and these are my answers...

Summary of what i've done: Bought broken 360, had 2 red lights (overheating)...upon opening the xbox, one of the 2 fans arent working (reason for overheating)...while i had it open, i did the clamp fix on both CPU and GPU, put back together (partially, enough to work and plug in)...i had unplugged the black dvd cable from the motherboard by mistake, when i started the 360, i got error code on screen of E 64 (dvd error)...found and plugged it back in...now when i start it, i get all green lights, but i get NO audio, NO video, and just a black screen on the TV...

any suggestions as to why it will thro up a code error ( E 64 ) and everything is visible on the TV, but after i plug in the DVD rom, i get nothing on the TV...please help, i know you guys have seen this before..

Thanks in advance

Will be a problem with the GPU-ANA-chip connection. When you plugin the dvd-drive E64 goes away and usually the ROD should show up now in some cases like yours it doesnt.
The errormessage always shows up no matter if the GPU is fucked up or not.
So go for the X-Clamp replacement and if this doesnt work try this fix.

[lightning2000]

New to the forums but not new to the site. Hi everyone.

I got my E74 error last night very very annoying, I had my first xbox for 13 months and got E74 MS wouldnt replace so i bought a new one. Now 13 months later I get another E74. MS can suck it.

I want to fix this error ive had my 360 in pieces already, i'm waiting for my x-clamp fix to come and some Arctic MX-2 thermal paste as well. Ive been reading this thread a while now and the only thing im missing is a heat gun. I don't really want to buy one but im assuming there is no other way of doing this? I was going to try my extremely hot hairdrier but I doubt it will melt solder. Any advise?

[Wilhelm_I]

QUOTE(lightning2000 @ May 21 2008, 09:26 PM)

New to the forums but not new to the site. Hi everyone.

I got my E74 error last night very very annoying, I had my first xbox for 13 months and got E74 MS wouldnt replace so i bought a new one. Now 13 months later I get another E74. MS can suck it.

I want to fix this error ive had my 360 in pieces already, i'm waiting for my x-clamp fix to come and some Arctic MX-2 thermal paste as well. Ive been reading this thread a while now and the only thing im missing is a heat gun. I don't really want to buy one but im assuming there is no other way of doing this? I was going to try my extremely hot hairdrier but I doubt it will melt solder. Any advise?

Do the X-Clamp replacement and if this doesnt fix it go buy a heatgun...

[lightning2000]

Thanks, ill wait for the stuff to vome then before i spend money on a heatgun.

I have one other question though. Reading the guide on x-clamp-fix.com it says "bake" your 360 by powering on with no fans for 2.30 mins. Is this a good idea or could it fry my xbox?

[meduquaine1]

Hi guys,

I wanted to let you know that I have found a cheap heat gun that works.  

On harborfreight.com I found it for 9.95 plus 6.99 for shipping.

it has to settings,  around 500 degrees on low, and ~1120 degrees on high.

hope this helps newbies like me... I did this fix today along with tortuga's x-clamp fix, and have been playing games for 8 hours straight.

Xbox 360 recovered for $27 including shipping.

thanks alot

[Wilhelm_I]

QUOTE(lightning2000 @ May 22 2008, 02:43 AM)

Thanks, ill wait for the stuff to vome then before i spend money on a heatgun.

I have one other question though. Reading the guide on x-clamp-fix.com it says "bake" your 360 by powering on with no fans for 2.30 mins. Is this a good idea or could it fry my xbox?

The baking pretty much doesnt damage anything I had an xbox that i actually tested with the toweltrick which is known to be damaging internal components by overheating.
I closed all airvents and overheated it like 50(stopped counting after 37) times (I let it cool down each time for an hour or so).
The thingy just wont die and is still going strong in my opinion the "overheating your xbox will kill it" sentence is just not true...
It might do that but then it is just coincidence.
If you just plug out the fans it will only overheat the GPU and CPU so this is the safest way to do it...

Just by the way the 360 was a bad flash one and I didnt have the key, the seal was broken and I didnt intend to send it back to Microsoft for repair. Just in case someone turns up and accuses me for warranty fraud...

[Mr. Happy]

QUOTE(Wilhelm_I @ May 21 2008, 01:35 AM)

Will be a problem with the GPU-ANA-chip connection. When you plugin the dvd-drive E64 goes away and usually the ROD should show up now in some cases like yours it doesnt.
The errormessage always shows up no matter if the GPU is fucked up or not.
So go for the X-Clamp replacement and if this doesnt work try this fix.

OKay, i have done the x-clamp on cpu and gpu...and i have blasted the back of the gpu to the ana chip twice now with a heat gun, and i still get nothing...maybe i am not getting it hot enough???  When i turn it on, i still get all green lights, but i get no audio/video...

on the x-clamp fix, i used the bolt that goes through the metal housing from the bottom and i have 3 steel/zinc washers plus 1 nylon (where it touches the mobo)...then on the top of the mobo, i have 1 nylon (where it touches the mobo) and one steel/zinc washer where it touches the heat sinks...do i have too many washers or what??

any ideas???

[Mr. Happy]

also, this may be a stupid question...but how far to i have to put the 360 back together before i test it???  I am leaving the casing off of it, but i have the mobo inside the steal case with the dvd and fans all hooked back up...is there a little switch or button somewhere that has to be pushed (by the outter casing) that allows it to work or am i just shooting in the dark???

[jimwross]

QUOTE(lightning2000 @ May 21 2008, 07:43 PM)

Thanks, ill wait for the stuff to vome then before i spend money on a heatgun.

I have one other question though. Reading the guide on x-clamp-fix.com it says "bake" your 360 by powering on with no fans for 2.30 mins. Is this a good idea or could it fry my xbox?

This isn't going to get it hot enough / or the right area to fix no video / e74 errors.

QUOTE(Mr. Happy @ May 22 2008, 07:24 AM)

OKay, i have done the x-clamp on cpu and gpu...and i have blasted the back of the gpu to the ana chip twice now with a heat gun, and i still get nothing...maybe i am not getting it hot enough???  When i turn it on, i still get all green lights, but i get no audio/video...

on the x-clamp fix, i used the bolt that goes through the metal housing from the bottom and i have 3 steel/zinc washers plus 1 nylon (where it touches the mobo)...then on the top of the mobo, i have 1 nylon (where it touches the mobo) and one steel/zinc washer where it touches the heat sinks...do i have too many washers or what??

any ideas???

Um... is the heatsink even touching the die of the chip?  I suppose it is cuase your not overheating.

Anyway, take the heat sink off, heatgun the GPU and connection to ANA chip as noted in the tutorial, re-apply your thermal paste and stick the heatsink back on.

You really only need 1 nylon and 1 metal washer on each side...

[Migrant]

Rather than getting a normal heatgun I am looking at a hot air pencil. Has anyone had any experience of using these rather than a hot air gun.

From what I can see the hot air pencil is designed for resolder work and is a lot more accurate than just using a normal gun.

The cheapest I have found is one on eBay for about £46.00

Cheers

[jimwross]

QUOTE(Mr. Happy @ May 22 2008, 08:23 AM)

also, this may be a stupid question...but how far to i have to put the 360 back together before i test it???  I am leaving the casing off of it, but i have the mobo inside the steal case with the dvd and fans all hooked back up...is there a little switch or button somewhere that has to be pushed (by the outter casing) that allows it to work or am i just shooting in the dark???

Push the metal button in the middle of the 4 LED's that light up (on the RF Unit) when you turn your 360 on.

QUOTE(Migrant @ May 22 2008, 10:06 AM)

Rather than getting a normal heatgun I am looking at a hot air pencil. Has anyone had any experience of using these rather than a hot air gun.

From what I can see the hot air pencil is designed for resolder work and is a lot more accurate than just using a normal gun.

The cheapest I have found is one on eBay for about £46.00

Cheers

Seems quite a bit more expenive then a heatgun, but as long as it gets hot enough, it should work fine.

Most people will only have to do this once, and only use it for ~1 minute so its prob not worth spending a ton of money on... atleast IMO

[Migrant]

Cheers Jim. I have repaired about 15 360's so far and god knows how many PSP and DS's but have never had to venture into solder re-work before. Seeing as I will be doing it for someone else I want to make sure that the heat is directed where it should be and no-where else. We had a hot week last week which brought in one two red light and an E74. Both had the CPU heatsink totaly blocked with dust so a good clean and reseating the heatsinks with new paste was done. Two red lights was fixed (Hardly and room for any air to flow due to the amount of dust and fluff) but I need to heat the E74. A trip into town tomorrow may find me a cheaper hot air pencil but if not I'll get on on-line. Cheers for replying.

[jimwross]

QUOTE(Migrant @ May 22 2008, 10:21 AM)

Cheers Jim. I have repaired about 15 360's so far and god knows how many PSP and DS's but have never had to venture into solder re-work before. Seeing as I will be doing it for someone else I want to make sure that the heat is directed where it should be and no-where else. We had a hot week last week which brought in one two red light and an E74. Both had the CPU heatsink totaly blocked with dust so a good clean and reseating the heatsinks with new paste was done. Two red lights was fixed (Hardly and room for any air to flow due to the amount of dust and fluff) but I need to heat the E74. A trip into town tomorrow may find me a cheaper hot air pencil but if not I'll get on on-line. Cheers for replying.

You may also want to look in to heatguns w/ attachable nozzles; I've seen them at several stores here that allow you to direct the airflow in a very constrained area (for electronic work).

Anyway, good luck!

[Wilhelm_I]

To test the 360 you only need 4 things
The mainboard, the RF board, the PSU and the AV-cable.
Leave it out of the case then you dont have to disassemble it if it is not working...

[Mr. Happy]

QUOTE(jimwross @ May 22 2008, 10:04 AM)

This isn't going to get it hot enough / or the right area to fix no video / e74 errors.
Um... is the heatsink even touching the die of the chip?  I suppose it is cuase your not overheating.

Anyway, take the heat sink off, heatgun the GPU and connection to ANA chip as noted in the tutorial, re-apply your thermal paste and stick the heatsink back on.

You really only need 1 nylon and 1 metal washer on each side...

yes the heatsink is touching the die, because the arcticsilver is all spread out when i take the heatsinks off so that i can flip it over and heat gun the back of the mobo...

and the reason i have 3 on the bottom is because my bolts go all the way through the bottom of the metal casing and not just from the bottom of the mobo...i drilled out the holes on the bottom of the case so that i could run the bolts up from the bottom of the case...

im going to heat gun the stupid thing again tonight, i think im going to leave it on extra long this time because i cant see anything beading up when i heat gunned it the first 2 times...

i will keep you guys updated...