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[fokia]

Did the x-xlamp replacement and manage to fix it. Didn't get around to hard test it yet since I don't have controller nor games YET (the console was given to me broken - 3RoD - and incomplete: no HDD/controller/games/etc - just the core).

Right after doing the FIX I didn't like the look of the bending on the back of the motherboard.
After doing some research, gathering (bad) opinions and experiences, IMHO the x-clamps FIX - as is - is NOT a permanent solution: you're putting the same (or more) amount of stress in the mobo/GPU but in the opposite direction x-clamps did before. Most probably, the GPU/mobo will brake on the inner part, next time.

Last night, I took a lot of pressure from the bolts (now the bending on the mobo is less noticeable) and I'm considering adding another washer (3rd) to the actual setup (2 washer: 1 nylon + 1 metal) most because of easier leveling/flattening the interface heatsink/GPU. I still got heat to the sinks so the interface heatsink/GPU is fine I guess.

I've been thinking of adding the bolts/washers FIX while KEEPING the x-clamps to counter the bending on the mobo, something like this:

(IMG:http://img144.imageshack.us/img144/1135/mobobendinglr8.jpg)

I have to study it a bit more and probably I have to put larger holes on the metal case...

Tell me what you think of this...

Also, I think it should be a failure report topic after the x-clamp FIX.

[fokia]

Oh well... I didn't got a game/controller yet to test it and already got the 3RoD back... (IMG:style_emoticons/default/sad.gif)  (because loosening the bolts, I guess)

Put back the pressure on, new heatup phase and 3RoD gone. Have to hard test it though...   (IMG:style_emoticons/default/dry.gif)

[Tortuga2112]

the whole point of replacing the clamps is to try to keep the board flat so it doesn't break away the connection. my method takes away a lot of the guesswork because it utilizes the stock hardware.

if you're not shimming right, then its going to warp up or down and depending on the particular box it'll work or not.

I wrote a tutorial using the bolt method you're thinking of , and several of the guys that do a lot more repairs than me have PM'd me saying its working well.
I don't think you can do it the way you've got it in that diagram anyway, unless you plan to cut the tips off the clamps.  and , by keeping the clamps, I think it might still put excessive pressure in the middle which is how the problem started in the first place.

here's a link to a pic of the finished mod

x clamp replaced

and the original tut x clamp tutorial

[fokia]

QUOTE(Tortuga2112 @ Nov 30 2007, 09:31 AM)

the whole point of replacing the clamps is to try to keep the board flat so it doesn't break away the connection. my method takes away a lot of the guesswork because it utilizes the stock hardware.

if you're not shimming right, then its going to warp up or down and depending on the particular box it'll work or not.

I wrote a tutorial using the bolt method you're thinking of , and several of the guys that do a lot more repairs than me have PM'd me saying its working well.
I don't think you can do it the way you've got it in that diagram anyway, unless you plan to cut the tips off the clamps.  and , by keeping the clamps, I think it might still put excessive pressure in the middle which is how the problem started in the first place.

here's a link to a pic of the finished mod

x clamp replaced

and the original tut x clamp tutorial

Thanks for the reply Tortuga2112.

Are you telling me that you don't have ANY bend in the lower bottom of the mobo (I really can't tell from that photo)?

I'm using two washers: 1 metal + 1 nylon = +/-1.8mm gap/offset (sorry for metric) and I'm getting too much bending on the lower mobo. Soon I hope to try a more conservative gap around 2.3 mm gap.
I'm using one of these to measure:

(IMG:http://www.s9000.com.br/S9Demo/images/paquimetro5.jpg)

Your solution is very ingenious. But I guess it's only better if you reflow it with the heat gun first. BTW, what are the usual conditions you use to o that (time/temp)?

IMOH most of the actual x-clamp fix is made of PRESSURE so bending should be expected but NOT desired. Keeping the original x-clamp would be a mere tentative to counter-balance the downward force made by the actual fix.

I might be trying your method though (since I have all the tooling already) just have some doubts about the heatgun temp/time (and how to regulate one that's not digital)...
How much force/pressure did you put on that bolts?

[Tortuga2112]

take a look at this pic again,

threaded heatsink legs

you're going to sandwich the mobo between the bolt and the top part of the heatsink standoff.

once you bolt it together, and secure the black screws from under the chassis, everything will be perfectly flat. you don't need any shims.

for the heatgun I have an infrared thermometer to monitor the temps. at first I was going by time , but then I started using the infrared to monitor the temps.

you need to get the top heated to around 200-210 C(but be careful not to go over that- did that once and it was fubar'd after ) and under the board heated to about 150-160 C

[fokia]

Maybe I need to take some pictures to illustrate what I mean since English Is not my first language.

One thing is keep the heatshink in place, other is the use - and abuse - of pressure to (partially) FIX the GPU/MOBO connection. That's why I say your solution would be better but mostly when used in conjunction whit heat gun or reballing.

I'll try to take some pics next time I take the mobo out of the case to solder the front FAN connection (BTW to you have one of these?).

I'm sill missing a game or controller (I wont buy any as the xbox might not worth it...) to hard test the actual setup.

[whiplash willy]

I don't have the heatsync legs anymore, anyone know where I can get them?  I have searched everywhere!

[Tortuga2112]

I have a few sets still , PM me and give me your shipping info.

for a small fee I can send you a set of 8 , precut and with the nuts.