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[Super Anto]

I baked my mobo at the temperature suggested, I have the vga and power plugs melted:( What can I do now? Anybody of you have had the same problem?

[stratman71]

i am a bit supprised no one came up with a reliable way to protect the connectors and caps in the oven.  my 360 has not rrod'd yet( had fan,shroud and baseball card on the gpu sink mods and use a 12v modded intercooler when I power the system off) but, I have access to ceramic wool blanketing (kaowool) at work, which  withstands thousands of degrees F.  this stuff is about 1 inch thick and soft and can be used as a high temp insulation. When my unit finally dies, I plan to use a 1ft x 1ft piece of the wool on top and bottom of the board to protect the componants,with a window for the gpu heat sink cut out to allow only that area to heat up.  only con, cant see the caps start to leak if this idea fails...

[elocin671]

QUOTE(mk500 @ Dec 21 2007, 07:29 PM)

I'm not sure going over 450 is a good idea. I went to 460 for a couple seconds, and my caps were really scarry (much more goo), so i immediately dropped back down.

My box is still running perfectly, by the way.

my caps show no hint of burning... they look different. but they didnt burn... i wrapped each cap in aluminum foil. the only thing that melted was the dvd eject button.

[adrenaline_wave]

QUOTE(HCarr277 @ Dec 5 2007, 09:27 AM)

I have been doing extensive reading here on the forums about the various fixes for the RROD, as I'm considering purchasing a 360 on eBay and attempting a repair.  This Betty Crocker reflow method makes sense to me, of course as a last resort, but every method I have read about seems to turn out not-so-permanent, from this one to the X clamp replacement (the most successful it seems) or heat gun, eventually resulting in the RROD again.

We all know that heat kills electronic components.  At such an extreme temperature there is no doubt in my mind that it will reflow the solder, but at what price to the longevity of the other electrical components?  I'm sure the heat affects the rest of the mobo in some sort of negative fashion in the long run, possibly the reason for the RROD reappearing after this method.  I realize that this is similar to the method used in production to flow the solder to begin with, but I'm sure that it's under more controlled cirumstances.

Also, I know this a little off topic, but has M$ resolved this issue with the 360s they are producing now?  Say, if I were to buy a new one, would I need to expect to eventually get the RROD even on a new unit?  I know it would be covered under warranty, but I have read several times on here of people sending units in for warranty repair and getting back refurbished units that also eventually get the RROD.  I have always been an XBox fan and as much as I'd love to have a 360, I'm considering just forgetting the whole thing and getting an original XBox and all my favorite games.  I don't want a console I'm going to have to be working on constantly with the thought in the back of my mind that every day I turn it on may be the last time it works.

Yes this fix is ghetto

My New arcade with the falcon MOBO runs sooo coool.. THe other one felt like a hair dryer after all the cooling mods.. This runs cooler then my PC'power supply and it's very quite.

No complaints on the new one.

[Skinleech]

Well, mine is still running great, anmd that was Nov 19th I oven blasted mine, so approx 14 weeks.  Pretty good going.  That's with an Mk3 X-clamps replacement too.

I'm gonna do a mates one this weekend which I why I went looking for this thread again.  Good to see it's still going on and off.

I guess I'll post back here with any updates to the 2nd console, should be doing it this weekend.  Fingers crossed I won't melt the eject buttons again..

Cheers.

[StanleyJohnson]

So, how did it go?




   
Well, mine is still running great, anmd that was Nov 19th I oven blasted mine, so approx 14 weeks. Pretty good going. That's with an Mk3 X-clamps replacement too.

I'm gonna do a mates one this weekend which I why I went looking for this thread again. Good to see it's still going on and off.

I guess I'll post back here with any updates to the 2nd console, should be doing it this weekend. Fingers crossed I won't melt the eject buttons again..

Cheers.

[Skinleech]

QUOTE(StanleyJohnson @ Mar 15 2008, 05:52 PM)

So, how did it go?
   
Well, mine is still running great, anmd that was Nov 19th I oven blasted mine, so approx 14 weeks. Pretty good going. That's with an Mk3 X-clamps replacement too.

I'm gonna do a mates one this weekend which I why I went looking for this thread again. Good to see it's still going on and off.

I guess I'll post back here with any updates to the 2nd console, should be doing it this weekend. Fingers crossed I won't melt the eject buttons again..

Cheers.

Only just got round to trying it out properly this weekend.  And.....  Seems to have worked fine again.  Had to do the X-clamps fix though.  Played some Burnout Paradise for a bit with no issues.  The owenr gave it a 90 min session the other day, and he says it's totally fine.

Unfortunately, the blue push-pins for eject/sync melted again, so I need to come up with a fix for that.  I think that drilling (with a 1mm drill bit) the eject & sync buttons, bening a wire to resemble and elongated Z and glueing in place should do it.  Will experiment this week if I get time...

[thepwnage]

I seriously wouldn't have the balls to do that. Good job man.

[8MM]

I ran mine through a warm cycle in the washing machine using 'Vanish' stain removal powder.

I then placed it into the dryer on hot for about 15 minutes.

It's freaky but my rrod problems seemed to have 'Vanished' also.

 

[narc7]

I baked mine for 10 minutes at 450 and now it WORKS!!!!!!!

[Bandit5317]

QUOTE(burnmaster @ Mar 23 2008, 12:41 PM)

I used a propane torch to fix mine...... leave the heatsink (just snug) on "bolts mounted through board"
supported board on each side ..raised up high enough to get torch on bottom side of board....

i heated the gpu heatsink really hot with propane tourch, so that heat would transfer through to gpu...
then i ran the blue flame over the bottom of the gpu a couple quick times (just within the 4 heatsink bolts)

let it air cool about 10 min. and then fan cooled the heatsink for a few min.
powered it on and works great...

been working for 2 months without a problem....

I had thought about oven cooking a long time ago, but was worried about the caps and plastic...
decided it was better to isolate heat to just the problem area "gpu"
i built a ugly ass plexiglass case to keep it cool and it does it job nicely (ugly as hell though)...
got a fan mounted down at each heatsink, and 2 facing up through drilled vent holes at bottom of board to help push away heat.... one exhaust fan in top of case pushing heat out, and the 2 factory fans pushing heat out the back...also got 2 heatsinks on ram chips on underside of board...

total of 7 fans in my box....(5 of which is run from external 12 volt supply).... surprisingly, not much louder than original 360

Wow, 2 months. That's pretty impressive. The torch probably actually made the solder joints hot enough to melt and reflow. I'll keep that in mind next time I get my hands on a 3RLOD console and the x-clamp replacement or heatgun won't do it.

[darkmethodz]

how well would this method work with plastic washers instead of nylon? wouldn't the plastic washers melt?

[vb_encryption_vb]

what you think is plastic is problably nylon anyways either way a torch to the xbox lol if it works more power to ya...i have 3 rrod boxes layin around im down to try just about anything on em though.

[Pnt.sharma]

Guys i think i screwed my 360 oven trick melted the connectors of fan , power supply ,rf board and also eject and sync button dont know wat to do .Please can anyone suggest something.I am unable to check whether its working or not

[luminous]

Thanks for the tip,got my own 360 working again after it!.
I have 2 360s here which i`ve tried everything with to no avail but have at least got them to redlight(when they seemed dead before).Tried 450 for 10 mins with them twice but still refuse to work tho.
The plastic parts are very vulnerable at this sort of temp,even while protected with foil,sata connector nearly came off one of them.
I`m thinking of trying without heatsinks attached,paste thoroughly cleaned off.
I`d heatgunned one of these before according to instructions with a gun set at 300,and the solder loosened cpu solder it actually moved chip slightly so am thinking possibly longer time at lower heat,quick blast at higher temp but i am concerned about plastic components/capacitors.
Any ideas/opinions?
Cheers