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[brandogg]

Your cable is plugged in all the way, correct? Make sure you're plugging directly in the wall, and not into a surge protector or multi-outlet. You might want to pop it back open and make sure you didn't knock something loose - maybe you left the DVD-ROM unplugged and somehow the IR board is in wrong as well?

[RDC]

He means RF board, yes the board with the power button and Ring of Light. The IR sensor is on the other side of the board and is for the media remote.

If ya think ya knocked something off when you removed the X-clamps get out a good magnifying glass and have a look, but give reseating the RF board a shot first.

[RDC]

Even if the heatsinks were removed it would still show life, not much or for long, but it would.

The eject button is the only other way to turn the 360 on physically, you can try a Wireless controller or Wired one to turn it on, but that seems pointless at this time.

Go over the board and make sure nothing was bumped loose and ya didn't dig into the board possibly breaking a trace.

You can check and see if the 5v standby is there.

[commandersafi]

The 5V standby is the red dot in the picture in the post above yours.

[RDC]

It's the bottom of the board, under the PSU connector. You need to use a Multi Meter and see if you have 5v there, with the PSU plugged in and the 360 on/off there should always be 5v there.

[tantis]

while looking under the board again while doing I think I may have found the problem.  There seems to be a tiny knick that I must have missed right by one of the x clamps.  This knick however seems to have barely.... just barely broke a trace it seems.

I guess my question now is... can I really soder that small of a trace?  Someone suggested "rear window fog repair kit" would do the trick... the traces are just so damn close together  

[RDC]

Now yer kinda in open waters, I'd start with trying out another PSU, and then RF board. Try it with the DVD and HDD drive unhooked as well.

If there was a short on the motherboard somewhere that will most times still throw an error code, since you still have the 5v Standby. Really hard to say where to start if a new PSU doesn't make any difference. You'd ahve to trace back the PWR Enable line and see if there was some issue there, as well as trace out the 5v Standby and see if it's interrupted somewhere as well and not getting to where it needs to be. Where I had you check it is just where it comes in from the PSU, so we at least know that part's working, though the PSU itself could still be the cause or even still something on the motherboard or RF board. have to put on yer troubleshooting cap and start poking around after the "easy" things have been tested. I just started out tracing down everything (yep everything) on the 360 board since I have one with all the components removed, so if I run across something that looks like it should be checked and get more info on how this and that works in the 360 I'll let ya know, kida hard to say "check for this and that here and here" when ya don't know wat should be there in the first palce. But that's a looooooog slow process and I've only scratched the surface of that project, so give the easy things a try first and see if anything changes.

EIDT: NO, don't use a window repair kit, that's about as cheap as you can get. Can you get a pic of the area? If not have a look here and find it.

http://forums.xbox-s...howtopic=605292

[RDC]

I'll have to follow it out both ways and see exactly where it goes. That can be repaired, though depending on how good you are with the iron and messing with stuff that small is really going to be a factor. Let me trace it out and see if there are 2 easier spots you can jumper a wire between to fix the open and see if it makes a difference.

EDIT: So we're on the same page, this is the trace you're talking about correct?

[tantis]

Yes that is the exact trace.

(sorry for the double post)

[RDC]

Well ya get good news, bad news and some news that may help with the bad news.

Good news is there's a TP spot that's already to be soldered onto and will be easy (right under where C4U11 is written, far left end of the trace) that you can hit for one end of the wire, bad news is you're going to have to scrape down a Via to get the other end attached, you wouldn't like where they end up if ya trace them out any more. What may help ya is THIS and the info in there on how to scrape down a Via and attach a wire to it properly. There are 2 Vias that you can attempt this on, try out the one on the Left first in case you screw it up bad, the one on the right is connected to it and even if ya botch the first one you'll still be good to attach the wire to the second one instead. I'd use a 30awg wire for this and take yer time with it, really I'd probably repair the trace with wire as thin or thinner than hair, but that's me.

[tantis]

might be a day or so before I can get the tools/wire needed and have time to complete in one swoop.

I'll keep you updated on any progress, thanks again rdc