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[DrJeckyll]

I just used some M6 nuts. They're about 4,5 to 5mm's thick. They just have to fit over the heatsinks legs that's why it has to be something with a hole in it. It does not have to be cylindrical.

I bought some washers just in case the nuts wouldn't cover the space between the casing and the board.

[wellmodded]

yea i was think about using a nuts any waz still i would like 2 know how long u have done this fix and how long u run yr xbox360 for with this fix ??

for now i can;t go back to the orginal legs becasue i already drilled holes unless in can find washers that i can put at the buttom of the metal case so i just do that 1st method tht i post in the startin witht eh spring washers
if i find washers that those small trox screw cna fit through i use tht

[DrJeckyll]

I let it run for about 8 hours or something with a DVD in it. This puts enough stress on the gpu for testing. I did it a couple of weeks ago. I hardly look after it as I'm confident it will run as long as the rest of the machine.

[wellmodded]

aight cool i try this put PM me if your xbox ever give problems tho thkz

[DrJeckyll]

You'll have to get or make some spring washers. It presses back against the heatsink and the board so you can adjust the pressure on the die. You can use any other item that compresses and expands on it's own like small springs as long as it's compressed height is not more than the height of the die.

[canleyvale]

I can't wait til tomorrow, here's a rough diagram of what I mean:

[DrJeckyll]

Ah I see. You can still but a nut under it to support the board though.

The gap between the heatsink and the board is already been optimized for contact so at least you cannot put more pressure than is necessary on the die.

[DrJeckyll]

It only needs good contact. If the sink gets hot there is good contact. More pressure may result in board flexing.

[DrJeckyll]

That's a problem caused by board warping/flexing. The flexing is in turn a problem caused by heat.
A 3lod or freeze often happens after some time. The board flexes and the brittle joints break. When cooling down the board flexes back and the joints will make contact again. The X-clamp keeps pushing hard against the board preventing it from flexing back to the neutral position.

[wellmodded]

QUOTE

That's a problem caused by board warping/flexing. The flexing is in turn a problem caused by heat.
A 3lod or freeze often happens after some time. The board flexes and the brittle joints break. When cooling down the board flexes back and the joints will make contact again. The X-clamp keeps pushing hard against the board preventing it from flexing back to the neutral position.

Ok you are not entirely correct there
the 3rlod of death is caused my board flexing which cause the point to break away eventually over time by contraction and expansion of the  joint and the board

QUOTE

When cooling down the board flexes back and the joints will make contact again

if that statement was  true that mean on cold boot your xbox would boot up but whn it get hot it would stop working that is not what happen many person have booted form cool boot and got the 3rlod meaning the join are already broken

QUOTE

The X-clamp keeps pushing hard against the board preventing it from flexing back to the neutral position

yes that is true but the xclamps replacement also put more pressure on the die causing the GPU to make contact back with the joints that where broken

[DrJeckyll]

You can simply add some washers between the board and nut to increase pressure on the die. I don't think that will be a problem.

And thanks for adding to my info on the flexing bit. However no matter what kind of X-clamp modification you apply it is still a workaround. The boards will still flex over time just not as severe as with the original design. The heat is still there trapped under the gpu. An optimized coolingmod, like Joust did, could outlive all the clamp replacements. Maybe with my next 360 I will attempt to do such a mod but I'm not considering buying a new one yet. I'd really like to make the dvd-drive external using the HDDVD player's casing and if possible without loss of the hdddvd-ability. A sort of External Premium upgrade.

[wellmodded]

QUOTE(DrJeckyll @ Jun 2 2007, 08:35 PM)

You can simply add some washers between the board and nut to increase pressure on the die. I don't think that will be a problem.

And thanks for adding to my info on the flexing bit. However no matter what kind of X-clamp modification you apply it is still a workaround. The boards will still flex over time just not as severe as with the original design. The heat is still there trapped under the gpu. An optimized coolingmod, like Joust did, could outlive all the clamp replacements. Maybe with my next 360 I will attempt to do such a mod but I'm not considering buying a new one yet. I'd really like to make the dvd-drive external using the HDDVD player's casing and if possible without loss of the hdddvd-ability. A sort of External Premium upgrade.

yes you are right about putting a washer between the nut and the board but thn the board won't lay perfectly flat u have to put a washer on every other mounting point on the metal case so it all even

U see how u say that the gpu heatsink traps heat under it i been think of getting a another CPU heat sink and putting it on the GPU should cool alot better:D

[wellmodded]

Ohh i have just tough about DR instead of putting a washer between the nut and the board to apply more pressure on the die you could just use a shim

becasue remmber if u raise the board higher than it normal hight that mean when you are bolt down the rest of the bolts the board will flex jsut a little and to avoid that flexing it easier to use a shim so the board is still at it normal hight when u tighten everythink down and you ar still getting to apply mroe pressure on the GPU

just wondering i have never use a shim before i now wht it is and everythink but wht do u think would make for a good shim i was think a piece of coper foil like what thy use to make temp exhaust gaskets

i was also think of cutt off a fin off a old aluminium heatsink sanding it to make it a big more smooth and useing that

give me some idea on the shim

I think RBJ new fix is going to basically be whay you are talking about and he going to use a shim to apply more pressure like wht i was talking about

[DrJeckyll]

There is no need for a shim. You'll always have good contact with the die with this mod. The heatsink's legs are adjustable and not in any way connected to the nuts. You shouldn't raise the board by putting 2-3 layers of extra washers in between the nut and the casing. I'll just bet you can get enough pressure with just the nuts.

With spring washers:
If you apply a single layer of extra washers to the legs you'll be able to put more pressure on the die than necesarry. Because when you do the distance of the heatsink's legs will increase. When you put in the screws you'll pull the heatsink down while the board presses onto the nuts+washers.

[wellmodded]

yes i know tht but it still stand if i have a distance of 3mm and i add 0.7mm i am raising the distance by 0.7mm and i am raising the board from its orginal lay hight on the metal casing 0.7mm is not much at all but in my eyes if it take a little bit of thermal expansion and cooling to break those joint under the gpu thn over time 0.7 extra hight will affect u

remmber the main point is to keep the board as flat as possible

So if i put a shim on the die i am rasing the hight of the GPU but i am not change the distane between the Motherboard and the metal casing

have u chck RBJ new mod for the exclamps replacement don't look half bad at all i did somethink similiar to that a whole back but i change it to the orgianl method RBJ had

but i like the idea more of bolting the board to the casing thn just letting it rest there like how he does in the new mod i now it the same thinkl casue he has the spacers to press aguest the metal case