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[moneypit]

I've experienced the 3 redlights with 0102 and have been reading about all the fixes. I took my 360 apart to see for myself how the OEM system works and I think I've come up with a simpler fix that achieves the same thing the existing Xclamp mods and eraser trick does.

Esseintally, I think all of these methods just apply additional force against the CPU/GPU. The bottom of the xclamp looks to be a flat spring that applies a certain force before it bottoms out. There is a black plastic nub that contacts the bottom side of the motherboard that transfers all the force between the CPU/GPU and heatsink.

I haven't taken my xclamp off, but assuming when it does come off, I could possibly remove the black plastic nub. It doesn't look to be molded on the metal. If this is true, a simple brass shim could be cut and placed between the plastic and xclamp. This would exert more force on the HS.

Alternatively, a non conductive material could be used as a shim between the motherboard and black plastic nub achieving the same thing.

It will all be easy enough to try but, right now I'm short on time and I tend to break things when I rush. I'll post my results in the coming weeks.

This isn't to take anything away from the existing methods it's just that it allows me to keep all stock components and hold tighter tolerances on the force applied. Screws, washers and lock washers all have a pretty liberal tolerance stack up.

I'm also thinking of using a pyrometer with a thermocouple and heat gun to precisely heat up the CPU/GPU instead of overheating it. I'll need to look into what temp is required to reflow the solder.

Or, maybe I'll just take up the service of a forum member to repair it to save me the trouble as originally planned.

At least I've put this out there and it may be helpful.

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[RBJTech]

The problem with the stock  X-Clamp is not that it does not produce enough pressure - the problem is WHERE it applies the pressure.  If you apply more pressure to the centre spot, then you will infact make things worse ...  (IMG:style_emoticons/default/huh.gif)  

The BGU pins lift from the outer edge because nothing is holding them when the board bends (heat related).  Only directly above the die is held firm.

To proove the point, the 'toothpick' fix actually reduced the pressure on the centre point by lifting the X clamp legs away from the centre point - thus letting the outer board flex back into touching the BGU pins - 'fixing' the problem.

Have a look at my diagrams in the threads - the whole X clamp design is 'backwards' and takes a bit of getting used to when compared to a conventional h/s solution.

Cheers,

Richard.

[moneypit]

Richard

Thanks for replying. I've looked at your diagrams and understand your point. Looks like my alternative is not an alternative.